Do I need to resurface my flywheel? It has all these Colored spots but only with 7000 miles.
Also do I need to remove the flywheel to change the pilot bearing?

Post pics soon. Can't do it on This iPhone but there are many color spots like on those burnt tip exhuats

 

If you are replacing the clutch disc, it is recommended to resurface the flywheel. You should be able to remove the bearing with the flywheel in place. Your local parts store will loan you a puller. I had to grind down the jaws a little on the one I rented so that it would fit in the hole.

 

but it is very low miles on the flywheel.

 

Color doesn't matter. You should be concerned about distortion. Do you have a dial indicator or a straight edge and some feeler gauges? If the surface is flat just cross hatch it with some 600 sandpaper, clean it with acetone, and blow it off with compressed air. If it's warped you should have it resurfaced.

The pilot bearing can be replaced with the flywheel in place but does it really need to be replaced? Wasn't it replaced when you put the flywheel and clutch on 7k miles ago? Stick your finger in it. Does it still have grease? Rotate it around and if it feels smooth and tight repack it with bearing grease.

 

Wow, that flywheel surface looks pretty bad. 6 puck clutch? drag racing with the car? ouch.

 

Yeah, that's got a lot of heat discoloration. If you can afford the extra downtime, I'd have it resurfaced. Super easy to do with an aftermarket flywheel, just unbolt the 6 bolts and take it to the shop.

Most cities have a local place that can do the work, just hit the yellow pages. I had one done here in Pensacola for like $30 or so, same day service.

Dale

 

ok now Im having serious issues getting the pilot bearing out. My flywheel and all its bolts are IN just the clutch is out. THe bearing does not come out and the tool needed to yank it out is too big. I tried popping it out with a screwdriver and now the bearing is mingled in there.

 

Auto zone rents a puller set that works. Not the actual pilot bearing/bushing puller from them but a puller set that as you turn it it expands around the pilot bearing and then when its tight you pull.

Thats whats worked best for me. And for re installation find a socket around the same diameter and gently tap it into there to the same position as the old one. ( double check the location of that old one it doesn't look like it was in all the way from the pic)

If your using a two piece pilot bearing make sure you have both of them are in their properly.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/engine-pilot-bearing-removal-pix-535403/

Not the puller i was referring too but informative step by step none the less.

 

Use a small dremel cutting bit to carefully cut the bearing long ways. When its out use some 600grit and lightly clean the hole of sharp edges. Rinse it out with carb cleaner and compressed air. Make sure you pack the new bearing with wheel bearing grease and lightly lube the hole in the e-shaft. Be very gentle tapping in the new bearing. Make sure the socket or brass dowel or whatever you use to tap in the bearing is the right size or you will distort the bearing race and it will fail and you will have to do this job again very soon. I hate tapping in pilot bearings because its easy to tap too hard since your under the car in an award position but you can't always use a press.

Has anyone rigged up a press for this job with the engine in place?

 

where in So Cal are you? i'm in San Diego, if you are close, i have a mazda pilot bearing remover and i'd be happy to help you out.

kyle.

 

that puller from that link looks like something I can use.. I wish autozone has that. I actually grinded the **** out of the autozone one and made it fit. The prob is I have no way leverage wise, to pull it out. It designed so I pull with my hand. Im scared to stick a dremel in there but worse comes to worse I will have too.


and kyleaudio, thanx man but I live in L.A. Really appreciate it tho.

and toilet paper trick did not work.

 

Your best bet at this point is to rent a Mazda specialty tool from someone.

Also, there are no two piece pilot bearings..... there is the pilot bearing and the dust seal. Technically it could be two piece I guess

Make sure when you install the new one that you leave about 1/8th inch space in the rear for the next time you need to use the puller. I recently pulled an engine with the pilot bearing completely bottomed out in there.

 

Learned something new....
Dust seal and that freezer trick from the link.

To the OP,
The tool i was talking about is a type of slide hammer. Doesn't require you to get past the actual pilot bearing and no tricky leverage.

Just to note.It will most definitely ruin the pilot bushing because it expands within it and then you pull.

Let us know how it goes.

 

i went out and rented a monster sliding hammer and used it to get it out. I have already put the new pilot bearing ALL the way in lol. Ill worry about that next time. That was a PITA. Now I have created further complications with my PPF as I tried to reinstal it with the impact gun as i stripped thats two holes near the rear diff (were most diff braces mount too)


Also, I now have a spec stage 2 clutch for sale w/ 7K miles.. Very good condition

 

The PPF uses studs and nuts and requires an impact gun for reinstallation.

 

yes I know. Im using an impact.