Do I need a better fuel pump?
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Caracas, Venezuela
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do I need a better fuel pump?
Hi pals,
I see how my engine detonates -J&S knock sensor monitor- sometimes -I´m not sure why- it happens when I am driving at medium (30-50 mph) or high speed (60 or more) and the gas pedal is released and suddenly I press the gas pedal -WOT-
I think that it happens because the presure at the injectors decrease and they can not inject all the gas that the engine needs at that moment. After few seconds there is no more detonations and I can reach 140 mph and 10 psi of boost without problems, no detonations.
Maybe I need a bigger fuel pump or should I decrease the sensibility **** from the J&S unit?
What do you think about it?
My mods:
*Pettit street ported with 3mm apex seals engine.
*Non sequential Pettit HF turbos.
*Custom cold air intake.
*Pettit ECU upgrade -it handles until 14.5 psi-
*10 inch Magnecor wires.
*Profec B bost controller.
*J&S Knock sensor with monitor -v0 unit-
*DP
*MP & CP -3 inch diameter- with free flow resonator. -no cat-
*Apexi cat-back. -4 inch diameter-
*Aluminium flywheel
*Stillel anti stress bar.
*Short shifter.
*Eibach springs.
*Hawks pads.
*Autometer A-pillar pod
*Autometer temp gauge.
*Autometer A/F gauge.
*Autometer boost gauge.
*Pettit AST
*Unleaded 95 octanes gas -all time-
How many HP do you think my car has at the flywheel or rwhp?
PS: We don´t have a dyno near here.
Thanks ,
RexTech.
I see how my engine detonates -J&S knock sensor monitor- sometimes -I´m not sure why- it happens when I am driving at medium (30-50 mph) or high speed (60 or more) and the gas pedal is released and suddenly I press the gas pedal -WOT-
I think that it happens because the presure at the injectors decrease and they can not inject all the gas that the engine needs at that moment. After few seconds there is no more detonations and I can reach 140 mph and 10 psi of boost without problems, no detonations.
Maybe I need a bigger fuel pump or should I decrease the sensibility **** from the J&S unit?
What do you think about it?
My mods:
*Pettit street ported with 3mm apex seals engine.
*Non sequential Pettit HF turbos.
*Custom cold air intake.
*Pettit ECU upgrade -it handles until 14.5 psi-
*10 inch Magnecor wires.
*Profec B bost controller.
*J&S Knock sensor with monitor -v0 unit-
*DP
*MP & CP -3 inch diameter- with free flow resonator. -no cat-
*Apexi cat-back. -4 inch diameter-
*Aluminium flywheel
*Stillel anti stress bar.
*Short shifter.
*Eibach springs.
*Hawks pads.
*Autometer A-pillar pod
*Autometer temp gauge.
*Autometer A/F gauge.
*Autometer boost gauge.
*Pettit AST
*Unleaded 95 octanes gas -all time-
How many HP do you think my car has at the flywheel or rwhp?
PS: We don´t have a dyno near here.
Thanks ,
RexTech.
#2
IRS 4 Life
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Sicklerville, South Jersey!!
Posts: 2,634
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
yea with all those mods a fuel pump wouldnt hurt...althought the inital knock could just be caused by delay in the fuel pump comin up to press..not reall the fuel pump lacking flow...
still better safe than sorry
id get the fuel pump and a new fuel filter
rwhp @ 10 psi? or higher?
still better safe than sorry
id get the fuel pump and a new fuel filter
rwhp @ 10 psi? or higher?
#4
1JZ powered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
Posts: 4,423
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
holy crap! I can't believe you have all those mods and no fuel pump!...
but seriously, if you get a fuel guage and check to see if your fuel level is dropping under acceleration, you'll know for sure if you need one or not.
Either way, it's a good excuse to get a new fuel pump. I think that the stock one will hold up to 330 hp at the flywheel, but don't quote me.
but seriously, if you get a fuel guage and check to see if your fuel level is dropping under acceleration, you'll know for sure if you need one or not.
Either way, it's a good excuse to get a new fuel pump. I think that the stock one will hold up to 330 hp at the flywheel, but don't quote me.
Trending Topics
#8
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Caracas, Venezuela
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by CYM TKT
10 inch magnecors!! muahahahaha mine are only 10 mm lol
10 inch magnecors!! muahahahaha mine are only 10 mm lol
Could you answer my question? how many hp my car has?
Thanks.
Excuse my english, my everyday language is the spanish.
#9
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Caracas, Venezuela
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by jspecracer7
holy crap! I can't believe you have all those mods and no fuel pump!...
but seriously, if you get a fuel guage and check to see if your fuel level is dropping under acceleration, you'll know for sure if you need one or not.
Either way, it's a good excuse to get a new fuel pump. I think that the stock one will hold up to 330 hp at the flywheel, but don't quote me.
holy crap! I can't believe you have all those mods and no fuel pump!...
but seriously, if you get a fuel guage and check to see if your fuel level is dropping under acceleration, you'll know for sure if you need one or not.
Either way, it's a good excuse to get a new fuel pump. I think that the stock one will hold up to 330 hp at the flywheel, but don't quote me.
#11
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Caracas, Venezuela
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by badass7
What kind of temperature are you doing these runs in? I noticed you don't have an intercooler in your list of mods.
What kind of temperature are you doing these runs in? I noticed you don't have an intercooler in your list of mods.
With the parking lights on, about 210-215 °F with turbos on line @10 psi at the highway.
With the parking lights off about 230 °F.
I ALWAYS use the parking lights on.
#12
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Montreal, PQ
Posts: 985
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I get much higher knock readings from my PFC as well when going from on and off gas, and when under light throttle around 3 or 4k. I think it is normal to a certain point. I have been told to be only concerrned with WOT knock readings, maybe you need to adjust you J&S a bit more to be less sensitive.
the fluctuating a/f ratios I get to. If I am cruising and slam gas down, I get ratios that will bounce a few times before going rich. I can;t see it being a problem with pump flow, as previously mentioned.
hope it helps, I would like some more definitive info as well.
the fluctuating a/f ratios I get to. If I am cruising and slam gas down, I get ratios that will bounce a few times before going rich. I can;t see it being a problem with pump flow, as previously mentioned.
hope it helps, I would like some more definitive info as well.
#13
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Caracas, Venezuela
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by KZ1
I get much higher knock readings from my PFC as well when going from on and off gas, and when under light throttle around 3 or 4k. I think it is normal to a certain point. I have been told to be only concerrned with WOT knock readings, maybe you need to adjust you J&S a bit more to be less sensitive.
the fluctuating a/f ratios I get to. If I am cruising and slam gas down, I get ratios that will bounce a few times before going rich. I can;t see it being a problem with pump flow, as previously mentioned.
hope it helps, I would like some more definitive info as well.
I get much higher knock readings from my PFC as well when going from on and off gas, and when under light throttle around 3 or 4k. I think it is normal to a certain point. I have been told to be only concerrned with WOT knock readings, maybe you need to adjust you J&S a bit more to be less sensitive.
the fluctuating a/f ratios I get to. If I am cruising and slam gas down, I get ratios that will bounce a few times before going rich. I can;t see it being a problem with pump flow, as previously mentioned.
hope it helps, I would like some more definitive info as well.
Thanks, RT
#14
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Caracas, Venezuela
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, almost a year ago we started this thread and now I think that my knocking problem is fixed. A month ago I upgraded the fuel pump for a supra one -just like some of you recommended- ; I took the car for a ride and i did not notice differences the knocking continues at the described situation, so I was very dissapointed , then i changed the spark plugs -they had like 16000 miles- for a new set and the problem still there. Then I replace the fuel filter and boala, the knock reading dissapear i made a lot of tests , 7 psi, 10 psi and 11 psi, no knock reading, from no throttle at 3000 to full throttle at 7000 10 psi wow, what a good feeling. I tought that the J&S was damaged but nope it was fine.
Now i feel free to run, no worries about knocking. Before, each time that i saw knocking on the display I released the gas pedal. Now i will enjoy my 7 and keep on reliability mods like a second oil cooler.
It took me 2 years and half to tune this car. I bought it from a guy that used a mechanic that knows about power but not about reliability. All the 7 that goes to that place takes the green mile or "the supoused golden path"
I needed the pump and the filter.
Is very hard to me to buy parts for my seven because here mazda did not sold rx-7, so i have to import parts from the U.S. .Talking about filters and disposable parts no other car uses the same fuel filter that the 3° gen uses neither the spark plugs.
The key factor on my reliability was the J&S knock sensor, without it I could blown my engine easily. Some guys says that the J&S take a lot of power and bla bla bla. I really preffer to loose some power instead to pop my engine.
Thanks for your help, i really appreciate it. This forum rocks!!!
RT.
Sorry about my english.
mod list:
*Pettit street ported with 3mm apex seals engine.
*Non sequential Pettit HF turbos.
*Custom cold air intake.
*Pettit ECU upgrade -limited-
*10 mm Magnecor wires.
*Profec B boost controller. Max. 11 psi.
*J&S Knock sensor with monitor -v0 unit-
*DP
*MP - with free flow resonator. Hooker Aero chamber-
*No cat
*Apexi muffler. -4 inch diameter-
*Aluminium flywheel.
*ACT street/strip clutch.
*Stillel anti stress bar.
*Short shifter.
*Eibach springs.
*Hawks pads.
*Autometer A-pillar pod
*Autometer temp gauge.
*Autometer A/F gauge.
*Autometer boost gauge.
*Pettit AST
*Fluidyne radiator.
*Supra fuel pump.
*Toyo proxes T1S rear and Dunlop SP8000 front.
*Unleaded 95 octanes gas -all time-
Now i feel free to run, no worries about knocking. Before, each time that i saw knocking on the display I released the gas pedal. Now i will enjoy my 7 and keep on reliability mods like a second oil cooler.
It took me 2 years and half to tune this car. I bought it from a guy that used a mechanic that knows about power but not about reliability. All the 7 that goes to that place takes the green mile or "the supoused golden path"
I needed the pump and the filter.
Is very hard to me to buy parts for my seven because here mazda did not sold rx-7, so i have to import parts from the U.S. .Talking about filters and disposable parts no other car uses the same fuel filter that the 3° gen uses neither the spark plugs.
The key factor on my reliability was the J&S knock sensor, without it I could blown my engine easily. Some guys says that the J&S take a lot of power and bla bla bla. I really preffer to loose some power instead to pop my engine.
Thanks for your help, i really appreciate it. This forum rocks!!!
RT.
Sorry about my english.
mod list:
*Pettit street ported with 3mm apex seals engine.
*Non sequential Pettit HF turbos.
*Custom cold air intake.
*Pettit ECU upgrade -limited-
*10 mm Magnecor wires.
*Profec B boost controller. Max. 11 psi.
*J&S Knock sensor with monitor -v0 unit-
*DP
*MP - with free flow resonator. Hooker Aero chamber-
*No cat
*Apexi muffler. -4 inch diameter-
*Aluminium flywheel.
*ACT street/strip clutch.
*Stillel anti stress bar.
*Short shifter.
*Eibach springs.
*Hawks pads.
*Autometer A-pillar pod
*Autometer temp gauge.
*Autometer A/F gauge.
*Autometer boost gauge.
*Pettit AST
*Fluidyne radiator.
*Supra fuel pump.
*Toyo proxes T1S rear and Dunlop SP8000 front.
*Unleaded 95 octanes gas -all time-
Last edited by RexTech; 12-14-03 at 11:26 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
ChrisRX8PR
Single Turbo RX-7's
21
10-18-15 04:01 PM