JhnRx7

iTrader: (12)

hey dubulup, did you ever find out what is causing the extreme heat by the turbos? i was just wondering because mine have just started getting hotter than normal.

dubulup

To tell you the truth, I was just really use to working on the car with everything cold and I hadn't started it in a while, and then when I finally did, I paid close attention to everything, it just seemed really hot. I also added the efini Y-pipe which seems to heat up a good bit...especially more than the stock plastic crossover tube did. I still feel like it's hotter than before...but since I never paid too close attention...I think I'm just being paranoid.

I have no coolant issues, or over heating exhaust (well the light hasn't lit up). So until I can feel the UIM and efini crossover pipe on another FD that is operating well...I have to say that I'm a paranoid idiot.

paw140

Come on dub, where is the daily update

dubulup

Well, the weather in ATL sucks (has been raining for daze and the War started).

As far as my car, I didn't get a chance to get my hands on her, so I read a little bit. In the workshop manual it said the circuit I mentioned earlier (speed relay, etc) is in operation:
Hot starts
PRC solenoid valve
high speeds/heavy loads

So that's why I'm going to put the FPR (Pressure Regulator Control) solenoid valve back in. It's listed for hot starts and when the PRC is activated...I was under the impression that's what the PRC's (FPR SV, I believe they are the same thing different name) purpose was. Maybe in '95+ cars the FPR SV took on another task??? Stated again: "I can't build any boost rev in neutral", so maybe when Vac hits 0psi the ECU is shuting me down because the regulator isn't allowing any more fuel pressure (I need higher fuel pressure to get into boost). Someone please inform me if I'm thinking about this the wrong way.

Other things different about '95+ FD's: No EGR, and NO PVC.

Other people on this forum running non-seq have the FPR vac line run striaght to the LIM (like I have)...if anyone in a '95 has it that way, I don't know (let me know if you are ('BLK95RX7' or something like that with a blk PEP)).

I'm lost here, so that's the next/only thing I can think to do. Es(forum member) has pm'd me about some solenoids so hopefully he has one that will work. There are two on the rack that can be used for this purpose.

Thanks Paw for inquiring, let's me feel like I'm not alone.

dubulup

Just looking for some new looks if anyone happens to get curious.

After further review and thinking reading and talking with Wade "the super friendly knowledgable RX-7 guru guy", I'm starting to think the FPR SV isn't going to change anything, but I still want it back in there...my poor baby on those hot hot starts...

It appears that after RC Engineering cleaning, some people have had problems with sec inj's getting stuck closed??? So over the weekend I will be tearing the car down again and running tests and installing the FPR SV...I'll have updates on Monday for those that happen to glance in thread and read my ramblings...Paw and I didn't view this thread 550 times by ourselves (I think).

And any suggestions/flames (calling me an idiot for being an idiot) are always welcome and appriecated (one day I'll learn to spell that word)...

dubulup

How correct Wade was, front secondary injector after inspection was dead (no click once power was supplied). Max Copper, you the man too! It just took me awhile to have the time to pull the car apart.

RC Engineering gave a print out back along with the injectors saying they were in excellent condition...well one is not working, I'll call them and see what the next step I take is...

I'm impressed with the 13b-rew...it knew a mechanical malfunction was taking place and would not allow me to push the motor into dangerous territory.

I'll keep this thread updated with the fix (and if it was the true gremlin) and then new dyno numbers after I tune again...

paw140

Awesome to hear you finally found something wrong! Now, the question is, did the computer actually detect that the secondary injector was malfunctioning and put your car in limp mode, or did it just run poorly because of the injector?

Anyway, let us know what RC says... should be interesting.

dubulup

I couldn't rev past 4k with more than 60% throttle...when the injectors should fire. so I guess the ECU DID detected some sort of malfunction, which I think is remarkable! (that's just me) It wasn't just a matter of running poorly. I would hold hard throttle (in neutral) and the rpms would get to 4k and drop and hit 4k and drop, like a rev limiter.

If I was able to boost (rev hard past 4k) I probably would have coughed up an apex seal on the front rotor AND damaged my twins. If I get through this project without a blown motor, I'll need to thank the 13B-REW control system diagnostic designers.

dubulup

Just talked to RC, apparently if an injector sits too long without running (i.e waiting a month for a radiator I paid for on the 27th of JAN; having the inj cleaned on the 4th of FEB.) the fluid inside the injector used for calibrating causes the inj to stick.

I ship it today next day air, they fix it no charge and ship it back next day air for free also, hopfully by the end of the week, I'll have a working FD again.

This project has been a nightmare...

order radiator - arrives damaged, takes a week to pick it up and another three weeks to process claim and get me another one.

ship twins and exhaust manifold away for non-seq moding - I'm told my exhaust manifold went to Canada, twins arrive and I wasn't pleased with the HUGE crack in the housing by what used to precontrol, ship back - told the crack is fine, won't cause a problem - send back to me.

Send injectors to get clean/calibrated/balanced - get them back - sit too long - get stuck - send back.

With all the down time I had time to do little things like a hose job, replace y-pipe and crossover tube, replace all water hoses, and clean the bay...and then the first day of spring I didn't cover my car and all these flower pedals from the trees above got into EVERY single crack in the car, hood, doors, hatch, etc

A FREAKIN' NIGHTMARE!!!

I can't wait to order my SMIC and see how it holds up to my luck.

Oh and just another kick in the pants, my battery died and won't hold a charge anymore...

paw140

It's amazing the amount of **** we will put up with for an FD

dubulup

Well my winter project is almost over...RC fixed the injector for the price of shipping out there, I installed it and BLAM!!! like magic. Paw, thanks for the support, Max Copper thanks for the troubleshooting tip, and Wade thanks for the insight about the injector, and thanks to the rotor community for providing the information I needed to complete the project, which was...
Full Non-seq conversion (w/ air pump)
Silicon Vac hose job
upgrading cooling system
condition fuel sys (inj cln/bal/cal; replace fuel filter)
other minor things...efini Y-pipe, removed DT, plugs (all 9's) I'm also running synthetic fluids everywhere. I've learned more than I thought I would about the 13B-REW, it was a great experience and well worth all the BS I went though; BIG payoff!!! Anything else I need to do to make my FD more reliable?

Things left in the project, intercooler and hard intake pipes...I'm thinking of the Greddy FMIC that's on sale or the PFS SMIC??? research...

(I added some fuel to the upper rpms so be safe) Drove 115 miles. Sat/Sun
I ran about 6-8 WOT runs in different gears (after giving about 60% thottle for about 30 miles). I set the boost for 8psi and in lower gears the wastegate couldn't vent the boost that low, but I held a constant 10psi (on my autometer, usually a little off). The car drives like I expected it too; under 3k light accel (normal driving) I didn't want boost, now I know where the power is, and it's there all day long if I want it. Car pulls very hard once in boost, lag isn't my main concern right now; my driving style has changed a bit (cruise right around 3k - shifting before 4k). Exhaust tone growls like a **** , not to loud at cruising speeds. Rolling in 1st and hammering it at 2.5k - 3k, FUN.

Before, my tires (plenty of rubber) would break loose after the transition (before transition, in 1st gear). I had a howling primary turbo; (there's a thread about it a while ago)...couldn't fix, now it doesn't howl. Along with the howling turbo the pri had trouble holding steady boost at light accel/load, now rock solid (even climbing hills in 5th gear under 3k). Speaking of interstate travel there is still plenty of power (cruise at 55-70mph) to pass at will without down shifting.

I'd like to be in the tuning phase by next week, researching an IC and having the pipes made this week...opinions/experiences about an IC would be great help while I'm sorting through the massive amounts of threads on the issue.

Thanks again to everyone who helped (friends I've never met, isn't the internet great?)

Carson

dubulup

personalized bump for Paw140...(saw you online)

paw140

Heh, thanks

Really glad to see you're back on the road! It feels good when everything is running perfect, doesn't it?

dubulup

You couldn't believe the **** eating grin on my face!

dubulup

Well, after the initial SMIC install and on the test ride...everything seemed to be okay, (time for some 60% throttle and boost)...built 5-6 psi in 2nd and 3rd, left off (and push clutch in) and the engine starts reving from 2k to 2.2k continuously
????????????????WTF??????????????
let clutch out and notice temp is rising...push fan button...temp rising...turn park lights on...(why aren't my fans coming on?)...temp is at 221 degrees...Light bulb pops up and I'm the idiot who forgot to hook up the connectors to the fans, so I sprint home to keep air circulating...engine still reving from 2k to 2.2k continuously in neutral...Well I find out that one of the connectors is stuck under my radiator, and the fun begins again.

It seems my car's electronics went CRAZY from not having the fans plugged in...no codes were thrown...might have something to do with the piggyback??? Anyone ever experience such a thing?

I had to readjust my radiator so the IC duct would fit...and now I had to pull everything back out of the car to get that dayem connector (oh and I have the worst thoughts going thru my head too...THE WHOLE TIME)

To make a long story short, everything is back in I put probably another 100 spirited driving miles on her this weekend. I mean HOLY COW, this car is SOLID and pulls SO strong.

Thing is I can't tune for more than 10psi. Pettit sent me a WG act. when they sent my twins back and I figured I keep it on (looked like they put a meaty pill in the line)...was kind of worried about boost creep. But I can't turn the boost up, now. I'd like to tune for 13psi but...I'm VERY pleased with the power I'm getting at 10psi, so I might just call it quits on the car winter project (and install some sort of manual boost controller later). Well, after my intake pipes are made.

Anyone know where to get some reducer couplers? (2.5" -> 2 1/4") Turbo Engineering has them but only in blue...4 weeks wait if I want black.


Just rambling...