I'm having a battery drain issue and I'm tying to confirm if it could be the gauges. They work fine and do not stay on when I shut off the car.

According to the instructions attached here...
http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/si...uge_wiring.pdf
http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/eBoostmeter.pdf

Red- constant 12V power
Orange - Ignition source
White - 12v for lights
Black - chassis ground

On my car....

Red - Piggy backing on sunroof fuse
Orange - Connected to the leftmost open "female" spaces on the fusebox using a brown wire as seen in the attached photo.
White - Pulled power from the fog lamp switch illumination wire at the switch behind shifter.
Black - Grounded at an original location behind the left kick panel

I realized that the sunroof is not a "constant" source of power like the instructions call for on the RED gauge wire. I guess it's only on when the key is on. Is this correct?

Are both open spaces on the fuse box "ignition" or Key on power only? I'm wondering if the brown wire (orange at the gauge) that connects to that leftmost open space on the fuse box is constantly draining. It's pulling enough to blow the .5amp fuse in my multimeter. The right "key on" location is occupied by an ignition on wire for an AEM water injection system. I am not getting any faults on that system and it has been working fine. I installed it exactly as the instructions recommended.

I checked my glove box and the bulb must be burned out, it's not staying on all the time and does not turn on when I open it. I've heard that this is a possible source for battery drain.

 

I'm pretty sure your problem is the orange wire. The open space you connected it to if I remember correctly, is a constant 12v

Switch the orange and red, and that should fix the problem.

If you're going to be doing these things you need to get yourself a voltmeter, they barely cost anything and will save you from big problems.

 

Thanks for the reply. I have been using a multi-meter. The current draw is repeatedly blowing the .5amp fuse in my tester. I'm going to buy a better multi-meter today that maybe has a bigger fuse.

I'll try switching the constant 12v with the ignition on 12v source. That makes sense, I just don't understand why the gauges still work when I disconnect the orange/brown wire.