I know the car was not running the factory computer. We are saying that if a stock FD can expect 80,000 miles then a modified one will be less. When you start doing mods on a reman motor its hard to tell what your dealing with.

 

Ty,
If the Power FC is setup correctly then it will compensate for temp changes. The stock intake would have nothing to do with it.

 

Im not arguing the fact that modified FD's will get less miles than a stock one. Im saying that one with 45k miles and 12 lbs of boost isnt going to blow because of old age.

 

....i Agree for the most part...even though every motor is different...

....but i feel the real culprit in an Apex seal failure is typically passover....

-Jack

 

Thing is an apex seal is probably made in some factory in China or Mexico, maybe the japanese actually keep there jobs in country and have them made in Japan. I think that a microscopic stress point results from an imperfection since day 1 that gets worse as time passes. The only way to check somthing like that would be to magnaflux the apex seals. They used to magnaflux crank's in the 60's and 70's to check for microscopic cracks in the metal. This process would be more expensive than just going with ceramic apex seals.

 

98k and 340rwhp on stock twins.. and the motor still had perfect compression.

I don't understand why you guys are so "ok" with blowing motors every 45k miles while making such little power. Get your setup dialed in and this stuff doesnt happen.

 

Sorry to hear about the car Jake. It is a blessing though. I'm glad I learned what I did about mine when I went through my build. Though I'm still sorting out some electronic issues, you will like knowing it's the way you want it.
I personally think the car just wanted the down time so you would change the kit out. lol. Good luck with everything.

 

He has been running alot more than 12lbs, used to be 15lbs dropping to 12lbs for 4 months, then after a EBC install 17psi for about a month. Combine with OMP lines not working for a good amount of time, and alot of hard use at the track, I dont see how its too far off. And besides the fact, this engine has not been torn down yet! It could easily be some piece of metal from a blown turbo compressor got into the engine. This would explain why the week before it cracked, it only could get 12lbs of boost even in cold weather, and the large cloud of smoke when he took off. Last time I checked cracked apex seals dont release a 1/2 quart of oil into the combustion chamber.

 

Blown turbos that are leaking oil are highly unlikely to cause this problem. You will know more once its torn down. Im just going off his explanation and the fact the settings on the Power FC were way off and could cause the car to run lean.

 

The motor might have ingested something.

Did you replace the four plastic fuel diffusers when the reman was installed?

 

hey rich, no i didnt put the engine back into the car. I bought the car with the new engine in it and already broken in. so 1000 miles on it and a few headaches. but once i got the boost problems sorted out than it was good. Than i went to Non-seq

 

Close. It was 13psi dropping to 10 psi. and than it seemed i could never get it to boost that 14 psi more than once after the tune, it would only do 12 for some reason. So i dont know what was going on. We will have to see after the engine is torn down. So if someone wants to donate some money for a rebuild it would be appreciated lol.

 

I can't imagine why you guys would rather just decide that rotory engines can't possibly last very long and randomly blow up for no reason so everyone should just accept it, instead of trying to help him prevent future problems with his next engine... If you think rotary's don't last very long thats fine I don't care, but why not at least try to help him make his next one last a bit longer.

Personally if my engine blew up I'd want people to help me prevent it from happening again...

 

Your car is retailiating for the horrendous front nose you put on it.

Sorry, I couldn't resist. Good luck with the new engine, be sure to go with 3mm's for a bit of added resistance to breakage.

To the above poster, rotaries CAN last a long time, but the MAJORITY of them do not. If you're making more than stock power, the setup literally has to be perfect, everything must be gone through from the ground up, and the owner has to be pretty meticulous as far as replacing old/worn parts on the car to keep it in tip top condition.

 

Sorry you are getting hit from all angles from a bunch of people, and a bunch of theories. One thing we know for sure, the engine has to be removed unfortunately. If you can get it over to me, I will tear it down for you free of charge, so at least you know what parts are going to be needed, and cause of death.

 

GTORX7 will be building his motor for him, as he is Defined Auto Works. So he is getting help to prevent this from happening. There is a wealth of information between some of the people who have posted here. Twisted7 is fortunate to have it all close to him.

Jake if you have any electric issues, just fix them now while the motor is out. I didn't know what to look for and now I'm searching with an engine in the way. Good luck.

And Jake, if you need help ripping that front end off, we can hook it up to my Suby. lol just kidding.

 

Seems like the reason behind this was poor tuning
https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-forum-47/am-i-doing-right-map-question-692008/
https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-forum-47/anyone-able-tell-why-my-seal-cracked-696407/

 

Gracer7 just so you know the whole am i doing this right, was me just editing my map but never loaded it onto my car.

Logan ya that sounds good. If it rains tomorrow than i will not have to work so i can stop by than if you guys arent busy. Thanks Jake