would this make my car have trouble shifting into 3rd and 5th on hard runs?


I think it would
this the same but original size
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...e.jpg.orig.jpg

 

here is the other side

for original size
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...7.jpg.orig.jpg

 

I beleave it would. this has happened to me. it started when my drivers side motor mount went bad. I also would check your diff housing for any cracks. I changed the motor mount (made my own using aluminum and polyurethan), also had the PPF welded and reinforced. after this were fixed, I went to drag strip with slicks. after about 5 passes my diff shattered into 7 peices, but gears were ok. although yours is worse than mine was.

 

If the ppf is cracked bad enough you can sit there and watch the shifter jump around in the car as the trans wobbles around. You can weld that up to fix it. It generally will hold.

 

I just checked mine, and noticed it was caracked by the welds, but not the extra plates I welded over the original cracks. meaning it should still be stonger than origanaly.



Also it might be causing alot more problems then shifting to 3rd!

 

If you've cracked a repair weld or near one, you're working on borrowed time. It means the plates aren't relieving the area of stress and so the welds are cracking, and the cracks will grow. Just FYI for the next time you take out your PPF, I suggest a longer term fix.

The good news is the PPF may be a small enough component to be rewelded AND stress relieved (an oven treatment) for not a lot of $$. But IMO just buy a used or Mazdaspeed one.

Dave

 

I actually had a good one laying around but my proble is actually the tranny. It won't go in reverse now. So I'm looking at a tranny rebuilt. Does malloy sell a rebuilt kit for the tranny? I was going to do this anyways since my 5th gear syncro was bad.

 

I've never heard of the PPF actually cracking like that. Has your car been in a wreck before or is this a some what common occurrence?

 

mine was broken in the exact same spot, but the crack wasn't quite as long. i had it welded a few months ago and is still fine

 

no wrecks, just the combination of bad engine mounts and cracked PPF.

 

My Mazdaspeed unit should be here Tues.

Thanks to Rich @ Bulletproof Automotive

http://www.bulletproofautomotive.com

 

have it tig welded back together and then have a 1/8-1/4 inch plate on one or both sides welded over the crack to reinforce it.

 

I already replace it with the extra one, I had. I'm thinking of taking this one and getting it fix and reinforce like you said then may be put it back on or sell it.

 

I cracked three of them b/c of excessive wheel hop at the drag strip. Better the PPF than the diff or axels. I am now running a cryo-treated PPF, so we'll see how this one holds up. Btw, I have not drag raced in years, and my old welded PPF had held up fine to street and road race use.

 

Well i am sure he sells the parts needed to "make" a kit, But he also sells reman trannies for around 2K I believe it was. It was a wile back so I may be wrong on the price. A rebuild will cost you around the same with all new bearings, seals, 5/reverse synchro etc..

Give Ray a call on Monday and see what he says,

 

2k for a rebuild? well maybe if you take it to someone and do it and that still a lot. I can do the tranny myself. I was told no to mess with the tranny. Just change that synchro and leave it alone. From experience getting tranny rebuild, you get more problem out them that way.So I'm either going to just fix that synchro or just get a reman. Not sure yet.

 

oh yeah while I'm at it I'm going to replace the clutch but is a lite flywheel worth the money for a street car?

 

IMHO, it is really worth it. I am running the ACT street/strip clutch with the XACT Prolite flywheel (lightest flywheel they make), and I have not seen any decrease in driveability, and no unordinary vibrations or noises. I've been really happy with this setup so far. It was recommended by many others members that's why I went with it. And it was fairly priced as well.

So a search on the topic and you'll find similar reviews to mine. I haven't seen 1 negative review of this combo on this forum.

Victor

 

Ahh didn't realize you were doing the work. Yeah just replace the synchro then The rear housing comes off the tranny by itself. And I operate on the theory of Murphie's law. This states that if you are that far into a job, spend the extra time and $$ to do the complete job or else, As soon as you get everything put back together, and start driving... The rest of the tranny will take a dump on you.

Preventative repairs. I mean the synchro didn't go bad because of "nice" treatment. I realize the broken PPF inflates the stress on everything but still, The tranny has had a hard life.

Just my approach to repairs. " A ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!!!!"

 

well this is my theory, "if ain't broke don't fix it" but I'm l really thinking just getting a reman for peace of mind.

As for a clutch I'm going to go with the old set up I had on my previous FD. Spec 4 puck sprung hub. Is very easy to drive and it will handle what ever I throw at it.

 

Change of subject real quick...

I looked at the site that someone posted earlier in the thread, and I saw these braces. Has anyone used these or heard about them?
http://www.bulletproofautomotive.com...il.php?ID=1754

 

yeah slight change of topic

Honda-- Where did you get your spec 4 puck sprung hub from? I like the performance of my old 6 puck solid but hate the light switch engagment.

 

http://www.specclutch.com/specMain.html

 

RX-7 Store about a year ago or you can go here
http://www.nipponpower.com/drivetrai...zda2.html#RX-7