tookwik

I just finished my fmic install and im having 2 issues. One, the minor one, is that my car is slow to crank. It starts turning over faster and faster and faster, then it starts... Sometimes messing my tubo timer up. (I had an issue tonight where I couldnt get the car to turn off at all, keys out... handbrake down... I unplugged the negative battery terminal... I had to stall the damn car and I even laughed at myself for doing it.)

The other big issue is that my boost gauge now reads absolutely no boost pressure. I know that i didnt unplug it accidentally because when I tap the gas it comes out of vacuum and reads 0 psi. When I drive the car, it doesnt feel like there is an issue above 4500rpm, the primary turbo just doesnt seem to pull like it should. I know with big intercoolers pressure drops do occur but I didnt think it would be anything like this!!! (I know thats not the problem thought) Any thoughts and ideas of what to check.

PS- The car has not been drivin since early july. What are the signs of running WAY to rich. Its seems to be popping more than it use to. oh and the battery is an optima yellow top (deep cycle).

tookwik

If taking a look at whats done helps, here it is. Could the filters have anything to do with it? Insufficient air? Well, not much is worse than the stock box. I'll apolagize ahead of time for the vast array colors.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Thats interesting.. I can't imagine why IC will cause starting problem.. I could see the boost issue.. Did you check the battery.. battery terminals and all??

And far as running rich.. i think bigger IC tends to make your car run leaner.. do to cooler intake temp.. but I could be wrong..

suprfast93

What kind of fmic is that? My car was popping when i got on it hard and would be hard to start, i found it running too rich from the water temp sensor coming unpluged. It is the one right behind the water housing next to youre air filter.

tookwik

Its an HKS rz-013 (i think thats the number). Where exactly is the water temp sensor? Im considering anything in the area of the intakes and intake piping. It was rough getting those things to fit, I used some serious force at times getting that lower intake to fit. By the way, which intake is for the primary turbo? I read a post from somebody who ran 6 psi after bending their airfilter fitting it into that position

tookwik

I've checked the battery and battery terminals, I wasn't real sure what to look for, but I did. Could it be the fact that the positive wire/fuse box is touching the negative wire/ground?

I have my stock bov & crv vented to the engine if that could be a problem.

Batmobile

This might be a long shot, but have you checked your spark plugs being that you haven't drivin it in awhile?

rynberg

Did you add gas stabilizer to the tank? That gas has been sitting for quite a while if you haven't refilled it or what not. Just throwing another suggestion out there...

SleepR1

Damn, dude, that HKS core is HUGE. I think the HKS looks bigger than my GReddy Type 24 V-spec (2-row)!

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Its the bottom intake is the primary.. Also check the two lines attatched at the primary turbo intake elbow.. Its a crank ventilation and sometimes that leads to smoke and rough idle.. that happened to my buddy..

Also, far as bending the intake.. well, unless you seriously bend it.. it will still produce power.. air tends to be sucked in..so, intake isn't a major issue when boost drops.. usually a leak somewhere between turbos to the engine..

I would also take that advice about the sparks and fuel.. Just drive slowly and refill with some injector cleaner.. replace your sparks.. its probably a good idea.. Also are you running any upgraded ECU???

Icemastr

iTrader: (2)

Are you sure your battery is fully charged?

ijneb

Sounds like a big boost leak

ech

Actually doesn't is sound like a big intake leak (after the Throttle body?)

That would give you poor vacuum, would mess up idle (as if you were on the gas) and would leak under boost.

Not a perfect fit with the above, but a possibility??

tookwik

My battery is definately charged enough... its brand new.
As far as the boost goes, i figure it has to be a line off around the turbo area because thats the only area I was really working on. Is there a pic anywhere that would show me what to look for?

Kevin T. Wyum

Larger IC's don't cause additional pressure drop, they actually reduce it unless they're junk ones. Your boost issue isn't the IC, but is likely something you did while installing it. Standard would be hose/pipe not being clamped and just venting everything to atmosphere. Check each of the pipe connections from the turbo Y pipe to the throttle body and check the compressor bypass/charge reliefs since you were working on the intakes. Alternatively as always check the air hose to your map sensor, people always have those come off : ). As for your starting issue, sounds like a short.

Kevin T. Wyum

Icemastr

iTrader: (2)

I put a new battery in my RX-7 too when I installed the FMIC and it went dead and I had to recharge it.

Batmobile

I thought you tried to used a Miata battery after I'd advised you that it didn't have enough juice? Q, did you drain out your PC680 after purchasing it?

Icemastr

iTrader: (2)

Drained both, and the Miata battery does have enough juice, it cranks as much power as the PC680. The problem was one of my fuses had blown and i replaced it but didnt connect it properly. So simple.

0110-M-P

iTrader: (10)

I have the exact same intercooler set up and mine didn't mess anything up. It seems like it could easily be a leak in one of the couplers to the intercooler, turbos, or throttle body.

Once all the bugs are worked out I think you will be very happy with that intercooler.

93FD3S

You should NEVER disconnect your battery when your car is running. You could short your ECU out as well as other electronics in your vehicle. An ECU repair specialist told me that. I also hope you have an ECU upgrade of somesort. That intercooler is pretty darn big, I'm curious as to the amount of pressure drop and efficiency. But VERY nice intercooler though. I would like to see some pics when its all back together. As far as your problem double check everything including plugs.

tookwik

I found the problem. I really cant believe that I overlooked it but I found that the connection of the intercooler pipes leading to the intercooler had a 1 inch gap between them. I didnt tighten that connection good enough. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Also, in order to increase my boost now, do I need any more programming done to my ecu? or since I have the fuel pump, should the ECU be able to compensate?

Oh and sorry man, I had no other option but to disconect the battery at the time. As for the ECU... I have the peter farrell piggy back unit, which works great by the way.
I'll post pics after I'm done.

tookwik

Finished product. Before the wash.


After I washed it I was soooo much more pleased. And as for performance goes. All i can say is that damn, i've nevered spun into third gear before. Not just chirped but SPUN.


I still need to figure the battery problem out too. Is it possible that the odyssey yellow top doesnt have enough cranking amps?

0110-M-P

iTrader: (10)

I have a yellow top and mine cranks easily everytime. Except for the fews times it will turn over but won't crank at first, then i stop and try again and it works the second I turn the key. Glad you like it.

neofreak

Whats with the links on the lip?

tookwik

I didnt like the fact of knowing that the lip may serve absolutely no purpose when driving because it was so flemsy. So... I connected those supports to a custom bracket I made under the lip that makes it sturdy as a rock