Dale's notes on the '96+ round taillight conversion
03-26-05, 12:04 AM
#1
RX-7 Bad Ass
Thread Starter
iTrader: (55)
Dale's notes on the '96+ round taillight conversion
Hey everyone -
Just got done doing the '96+ round taillight conversion on my car. MAN, are the round lights cool! It wasn't that hard or expensive to do - I've got a few notes from doing my conversion.
First off, hit this page up -
http://www.jsott.com/rx-7/lights/index.html
It's so good I didn't bother to do a writeup
. Clear and concise.
OK, my notes -
- First off, this is NOT a hard job. I did it in an evening - about 3-4 hours total. I took my time, too; that's the most important thing with this job is to take your time and do it right.
- Many people have had issues finding the X-acto compass/swivel knife. Check local hobby shops - that's where you'll find it. I have a buddy of mine that works at a local hobby shop - not only do they stock 'em, but he had one I could borrow, making the job even cheaper.
- For the masks for the taillight circles, I used a clear adhesive book cover. They sell rolls of it at Office Depot for a buck or two. Worked great. I've also used that same stuff in the past to cover shop manuals - makes the cover MUCH more durable and grease resistant.
- I used the oven to take the lights apart, and that worked out really well. If you're going to use an oven, get an oven thermometer that hangs in the oven. Most temp settings on ovens aren't that accurate, and you need to be REAL sure of how hot things are getting. I used about 200-250 degrees to separate the lights. I put the rack in the spot one up from the bottom - that way the lights weren't too close to either the top or bottom element. Do one light at a time, and wear gloves - those suckers are hot!
- I would "cook" the light in the oven for a while, then pull it out and pry lightly between the halves with a fat-tip flat screwdriver. You don't want to get it TOO hot so the two halves easily peel apart - if that happens, the glue will string all over and make a mess. The glue should look like pulling taffy as it comes apart. BTW, the glue area itself was about 180-190 degrees according to my non-contact thermometer - even though the oven was hotter, I didn't let it sit in the oven long enough to fully match the temp. I was constantly pulling the light out and seeing if it was ready - a little slow, but I got just the right result.
- Once you get the lenses out, time to make the masks. I also got a metal ruler at Office Depot that measured in millimeters as well. I cut 4 80mm circles and 2 75mm circles as per the instructions. Take your time positioning them and lining them up - I just left the backing on the clear adhesive, and used 2 pieces of black tape on each end to anchor the circle. That made it easy to re-position. Triple check your placement, and compare each light to make sure everything's symmetrical. I also held the lenses up to the light - it was easy to make sure everything's centered. Just as long as it *looks* good, you're OK - don't worry about exact placement, just pick good locations and make sure they're even top to bottom and look nice.
- After I got the circles placed, I put a wide piece of electrical tape on top of one of the existing hold-down pieces on the circle as a "hinge". I peeled the tape off the other side of the circle, lifted the circle up, and pulled the backing off. Then, I flattened it down and removed the tape. I took one of the extra pieces of tape and put it over the hole in the middle of the circle made by the point of the compass - it would look dumb to have one dot of black in the middle.
- Paint time! This is the only place I goofed up. It turned out well, but I needed a thicker coat - with the lights on, the light partially bleeds through the paint so it's not totally dark. More coats or a better paint might have done the trick, but holding the lens to a light and checking how opaque the paint is would have told me go/no go on it.
- Reassembly went VERY quickly. The outer clear lens of the taillight needed to go back in the oven to heat the glue back up, but I didn't want to set it right on the rack since it could burn or melt lines into the lens. I put a potholder in the oven and rested it on the pot holder - problem solved. The glue got hot enough to work VERY quickly. I also put a thin bead of clear RTV silicone on there as well - I've learned it's a good idea to double-insure you have a good air/water tight seal on the lights, or you'll be fighting condensation.
- This was the first time I've removed the lights from the car. As you know, you have to remove the two screws and push the light to the side. You DO have to use a decent amount of force to pop the light free - a bit more than I expected. Don't be worried when they don't easily slide out!
Anyhow, that's my story. This is a great easy, cheap mod - all the parts can be had for less than $20, and it really updates the look of the car. Again, take your time - you've only got one chance to do this right! I'm not sure how happy I am with my too-thin paint coat on the lights. Good thing I don't actually *see* the lights myself driving around .
Hope this helps someone out and encourages you to tackle the job!
Dale
Just got done doing the '96+ round taillight conversion on my car. MAN, are the round lights cool! It wasn't that hard or expensive to do - I've got a few notes from doing my conversion.
First off, hit this page up -
http://www.jsott.com/rx-7/lights/index.html
It's so good I didn't bother to do a writeup
. Clear and concise.OK, my notes -
- First off, this is NOT a hard job. I did it in an evening - about 3-4 hours total. I took my time, too; that's the most important thing with this job is to take your time and do it right.
- Many people have had issues finding the X-acto compass/swivel knife. Check local hobby shops - that's where you'll find it. I have a buddy of mine that works at a local hobby shop - not only do they stock 'em, but he had one I could borrow, making the job even cheaper
.- For the masks for the taillight circles, I used a clear adhesive book cover. They sell rolls of it at Office Depot for a buck or two. Worked great. I've also used that same stuff in the past to cover shop manuals - makes the cover MUCH more durable and grease resistant.
- I used the oven to take the lights apart, and that worked out really well. If you're going to use an oven, get an oven thermometer that hangs in the oven. Most temp settings on ovens aren't that accurate, and you need to be REAL sure of how hot things are getting. I used about 200-250 degrees to separate the lights. I put the rack in the spot one up from the bottom - that way the lights weren't too close to either the top or bottom element. Do one light at a time, and wear gloves - those suckers are hot!
- I would "cook" the light in the oven for a while, then pull it out and pry lightly between the halves with a fat-tip flat screwdriver. You don't want to get it TOO hot so the two halves easily peel apart - if that happens, the glue will string all over and make a mess. The glue should look like pulling taffy as it comes apart. BTW, the glue area itself was about 180-190 degrees according to my non-contact thermometer - even though the oven was hotter, I didn't let it sit in the oven long enough to fully match the temp. I was constantly pulling the light out and seeing if it was ready - a little slow, but I got just the right result.
- Once you get the lenses out, time to make the masks. I also got a metal ruler at Office Depot that measured in millimeters as well. I cut 4 80mm circles and 2 75mm circles as per the instructions. Take your time positioning them and lining them up - I just left the backing on the clear adhesive, and used 2 pieces of black tape on each end to anchor the circle. That made it easy to re-position. Triple check your placement, and compare each light to make sure everything's symmetrical. I also held the lenses up to the light - it was easy to make sure everything's centered. Just as long as it *looks* good, you're OK - don't worry about exact placement, just pick good locations and make sure they're even top to bottom and look nice.
- After I got the circles placed, I put a wide piece of electrical tape on top of one of the existing hold-down pieces on the circle as a "hinge". I peeled the tape off the other side of the circle, lifted the circle up, and pulled the backing off. Then, I flattened it down and removed the tape. I took one of the extra pieces of tape and put it over the hole in the middle of the circle made by the point of the compass - it would look dumb to have one dot of black in the middle
.- Paint time! This is the only place I goofed up. It turned out well, but I needed a thicker coat - with the lights on, the light partially bleeds through the paint so it's not totally dark. More coats or a better paint might have done the trick, but holding the lens to a light and checking how opaque the paint is would have told me go/no go on it.
- Reassembly went VERY quickly. The outer clear lens of the taillight needed to go back in the oven to heat the glue back up, but I didn't want to set it right on the rack since it could burn or melt lines into the lens. I put a potholder in the oven and rested it on the pot holder - problem solved. The glue got hot enough to work VERY quickly. I also put a thin bead of clear RTV silicone on there as well - I've learned it's a good idea to double-insure you have a good air/water tight seal on the lights, or you'll be fighting condensation.
- This was the first time I've removed the lights from the car. As you know, you have to remove the two screws and push the light to the side. You DO have to use a decent amount of force to pop the light free - a bit more than I expected. Don't be worried when they don't easily slide out!
Anyhow, that's my story
. This is a great easy, cheap mod - all the parts can be had for less than $20, and it really updates the look of the car. Again, take your time - you've only got one chance to do this right! I'm not sure how happy I am with my too-thin paint coat on the lights. Good thing I don't actually *see* the lights myself driving around . Hope this helps someone out and encourages you to tackle the job!
Dale
03-26-05, 01:37 AM
#2
Hi....
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: bay area
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by daleclark
- After I got the circles placed, I put a wide piece of electrical tape on top of one of the existing hold-down pieces on the circle as a "hinge". I peeled the tape off the other side of the circle, lifted the circle up, and pulled the backing off. Then, I flattened it down and removed the tape. I took one of the extra pieces of tape and put it over the hole in the middle of the circle made by the point of the compass - it would look dumb to have one dot of black in the middle .
. Great write-up though...like 8 months ago, I was about to put a post about that site asking if anyone's done it and if they've encountered a few problems, but I never got to it. But here you are putting the write up!!!!! Mad props dude Jeremy
03-26-05, 02:31 AM
#3
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Washington/BC
Posts: 511
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
nice write up but alittle hard to understand for us slow folks hahhaha
i did this a while ago but i used a heat gun because i already had one and i didn't have to worry about burning my hands
i also used vinyl stickers instead of book covers, went to a graphics store and they did it all on the computer cost like 5bucks canadian
when sticking the circles on spray the lens with some water so u can move the circles around until u get it in the right spot
besides that i did exactly what dale did and it takes like 30mins of actual work and the rest of the time was spent waiting for paint to dry
*oh ya paint several coats and check it by holding it up to a bright light source to make sure no light bleeds through.
i did this a while ago but i used a heat gun because i already had one and i didn't have to worry about burning my hands
i also used vinyl stickers instead of book covers, went to a graphics store and they did it all on the computer cost like 5bucks canadian
when sticking the circles on spray the lens with some water so u can move the circles around until u get it in the right spot
besides that i did exactly what dale did and it takes like 30mins of actual work and the rest of the time was spent waiting for paint to dry
*oh ya paint several coats and check it by holding it up to a bright light source to make sure no light bleeds through.
03-26-05, 06:53 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: In your wheelhouse
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great write up Dale. I follwed that web site to the 'T' a few weeks ago and everything worked out great. Baked the lights in the oven too.
Here's my $0.02:
1: Change all of the lightbulbs! If you have them dangling out of the back of your car - just do it. Figure they're 10+ years old, Murphy's law says that the moment you put the assembly back on the car, one of the old bulbs will burn out. $10.00 worth of insurance this won't happen.
2. Let the paint dry! I was so anxious to get the contact paper off of the lens- so I went at it after like an hour of dry time. Some of the black paint started lifting off with the contact paper where it meets the lens. If this happens - just used a little electric tape to cover the mess (I am still pissed this happened). Can't see the tape when the assembly is put back together.
The whole thing will take 5 coats minimum. Hold them to the light to see if there are any thin spots before you respray.
Here's my $0.02:
1: Change all of the lightbulbs! If you have them dangling out of the back of your car - just do it. Figure they're 10+ years old, Murphy's law says that the moment you put the assembly back on the car, one of the old bulbs will burn out. $10.00 worth of insurance this won't happen.
2. Let the paint dry! I was so anxious to get the contact paper off of the lens- so I went at it after like an hour of dry time. Some of the black paint started lifting off with the contact paper where it meets the lens. If this happens - just used a little electric tape to cover the mess (I am still pissed this happened). Can't see the tape when the assembly is put back together.
The whole thing will take 5 coats minimum. Hold them to the light to see if there are any thin spots before you respray.
03-26-05, 09:46 AM
#6
RX-7 Bad Ass
Thread Starter
iTrader: (55)
Originally Posted by jeremyb
I've been wanting to do this mod for almost a year but never really got to asking this clarification question. Can you put that in laymens terms if it isn't already Dale? I'm pretty sure that I'll most likely understand it while in the process but I would like to understand it just by using my head . Great write-up though...like 8 months ago, I was about to put a post about that site asking if anyone's done it and if they've encountered a few problems, but I never got to it. But here you are putting the write up!!!!! Mad props dude
Jeremy
. Great write-up though...like 8 months ago, I was about to put a post about that site asking if anyone's done it and if they've encountered a few problems, but I never got to it. But here you are putting the write up!!!!! Mad props dude Jeremy
OK, you've got the circle of adhesive clear plastic all cut out with the backing still on it. Take 2 small pieces of electrical tape (like 1" x 1/2") and put the tape at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions on the circle, with the tape half on the circle and half sticking out so it will stick to the lens. Position all the circles and see how it looks. If one is too high or whatever you can peel the tape back a bit so the circle is loose and re-position it.
Once you have it just where you want it, get you a bigger piece of tape - like 1" by 3". Lay it on the 12 o'clock part of the circle, going from the 10 position to 2 or so. Remove the small piece of tape at the 6 o'clock position. With that wide tape going across the top of the circle, you can lift up the bottom of the circle "hinging" the circle at the tape along the top. The hinge tape will keep the circle from shifting on you as you lift up the circle to peel the backing off the contact paper - the paper has backing just like a bumper stiicker, you peel it off to reveal the sticky glue. After you peel it off, flatten it from the 12 o'clock down to the 6 o'clock so you don't get any air trapped underneath.
You could also use vinyl sign shop vinyl, but that's a LOT more work. This isn't super stick like pro vinyl is - it's easy to peel up and re-stick, and you don't have to mess with water to position the vinyl. Also, since it isn't as sticky it's easier to peel off when the paint is dry.
IMHO the oven requires a lot less finesse than the heat gun. You can easily melt a section of the light if you leave the heat gun there too long - it puts out a LOT of heat (like 1100 degrees!). My oven was only at 250 degrees - took me about 20 minutes per light to slowly heat it up and keep checking it to get the sections apart. If you're new to working with this type of stuff, I'd say use the oven - much less of a margin for error. Just be careful when removing it from the oven - a buddy of mine accidentally touched the light to the element in the oven and made a melted mark on the housing! Just use both hands to remove it and go slow. I used a pair of Mechanix gloves while I was working with the hot taillight - they're good to have for doing some jobs on the car anyhow, but any sort of decent glove where you have some dexterity (not mittens or an oven mitt) will be fine.
Hope this clears a few things up!
Dale
03-26-05, 11:27 AM
#7
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by DamonB
I figure at some point everyone will have their tail lights converted and my stock light will be rare 
Trending Topics
03-26-05, 11:39 AM
#10
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Originally Posted by DaleClark
IMHO the oven requires a lot less finesse than the heat gun. You can easily melt a section of the light if you leave the heat gun there too long - it puts out a LOT of heat (like 1100 degrees!). My oven was only at 250 degrees - took me about 20 minutes per light to slowly heat it up and keep checking it to get the sections apart. If you're new to working with this type of stuff, I'd say use the oven - much less of a margin for error.
The one I bought at the local hardware store for $30 is adjustable for three settings, and the medium (850 degrees) worked fine. I didn't think it required too much finesse, just some patience to slowly soften up the glue holding the lens to the cover. A bit less patience than waiting 20 minutes and then handling the assembly with gloves, but that's just me. Still, for those with little patience or mechanical aptitude, the oven method is probably the better choice as long as you don't forget they're in there and stink up the house with the smell of melting glue.Using a lacquer-based paint is easier to get the proper cover-up with a few coats, rather than dousing it repeatedly with enamel. Dries a little quicker between coats as well.
03-26-05, 12:29 PM
#11
I brake boost
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Orlando
Posts: 2,128
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used a heat gun with mine. I just don't trust my oven at all. I'd hate to melt my tails even if I standing by the oven the entire time. Just a risk I didn't want to take.
03-26-05, 01:08 PM
#12
Hi....
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: bay area
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by DaleClark
Thanks!
OK, you've got the circle of adhesive clear plastic all cut out with the backing still on it. Take 2 small pieces of electrical tape (like 1" x 1/2") and put the tape at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions on the circle, with the tape half on the circle and half sticking out so it will stick to the lens. Position all the circles and see how it looks. If one is too high or whatever you can peel the tape back a bit so the circle is loose and re-position it.
Once you have it just where you want it, get you a bigger piece of tape - like 1" by 3". Lay it on the 12 o'clock part of the circle, going from the 10 position to 2 or so. Remove the small piece of tape at the 6 o'clock position. With that wide tape going across the top of the circle, you can lift up the bottom of the circle "hinging" the circle at the tape along the top. The hinge tape will keep the circle from shifting on you as you lift up the circle to peel the backing off the contact paper - the paper has backing just like a bumper stiicker, you peel it off to reveal the sticky glue. After you peel it off, flatten it from the 12 o'clock down to the 6 o'clock so you don't get any air trapped underneath.
You could also use vinyl sign shop vinyl, but that's a LOT more work. This isn't super stick like pro vinyl is - it's easy to peel up and re-stick, and you don't have to mess with water to position the vinyl. Also, since it isn't as sticky it's easier to peel off when the paint is dry.
IMHO the oven requires a lot less finesse than the heat gun. You can easily melt a section of the light if you leave the heat gun there too long - it puts out a LOT of heat (like 1100 degrees!). My oven was only at 250 degrees - took me about 20 minutes per light to slowly heat it up and keep checking it to get the sections apart. If you're new to working with this type of stuff, I'd say use the oven - much less of a margin for error. Just be careful when removing it from the oven - a buddy of mine accidentally touched the light to the element in the oven and made a melted mark on the housing! Just use both hands to remove it and go slow. I used a pair of Mechanix gloves while I was working with the hot taillight - they're good to have for doing some jobs on the car anyhow, but any sort of decent glove where you have some dexterity (not mittens or an oven mitt) will be fine.
Hope this clears a few things up!
Dale
OK, you've got the circle of adhesive clear plastic all cut out with the backing still on it. Take 2 small pieces of electrical tape (like 1" x 1/2") and put the tape at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions on the circle, with the tape half on the circle and half sticking out so it will stick to the lens. Position all the circles and see how it looks. If one is too high or whatever you can peel the tape back a bit so the circle is loose and re-position it.
Once you have it just where you want it, get you a bigger piece of tape - like 1" by 3". Lay it on the 12 o'clock part of the circle, going from the 10 position to 2 or so. Remove the small piece of tape at the 6 o'clock position. With that wide tape going across the top of the circle, you can lift up the bottom of the circle "hinging" the circle at the tape along the top. The hinge tape will keep the circle from shifting on you as you lift up the circle to peel the backing off the contact paper - the paper has backing just like a bumper stiicker, you peel it off to reveal the sticky glue. After you peel it off, flatten it from the 12 o'clock down to the 6 o'clock so you don't get any air trapped underneath.
You could also use vinyl sign shop vinyl, but that's a LOT more work. This isn't super stick like pro vinyl is - it's easy to peel up and re-stick, and you don't have to mess with water to position the vinyl. Also, since it isn't as sticky it's easier to peel off when the paint is dry.
IMHO the oven requires a lot less finesse than the heat gun. You can easily melt a section of the light if you leave the heat gun there too long - it puts out a LOT of heat (like 1100 degrees!). My oven was only at 250 degrees - took me about 20 minutes per light to slowly heat it up and keep checking it to get the sections apart. If you're new to working with this type of stuff, I'd say use the oven - much less of a margin for error. Just be careful when removing it from the oven - a buddy of mine accidentally touched the light to the element in the oven and made a melted mark on the housing! Just use both hands to remove it and go slow. I used a pair of Mechanix gloves while I was working with the hot taillight - they're good to have for doing some jobs on the car anyhow, but any sort of decent glove where you have some dexterity (not mittens or an oven mitt) will be fine.
Hope this clears a few things up!
Dale
and leaving a melted spot somewhere). You will reallllly be angry. Unless you're really familiar with a heat gun and its heat, use an oven.
Originally Posted by superior_force
ha....exactly.....round tail lights are very RSX-ish
Jeremy
Jeremy
03-26-05, 01:26 PM
#13
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Washington/BC
Posts: 511
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by jeremyb
A heat gun is fast too, but you risk the chance to getting distracted (like what I did once and leaving a melted spot somewhere). You will reallllly be angry. Unless you're really familiar with a heat gun and its heat, use an oven.
and leaving a melted spot somewhere). You will reallllly be angry. Unless you're really familiar with a heat gun and its heat, use an oven.hahaha i did the same exact thing on one of my lights while watching tv which ever way u do it just pay attention!!!
03-26-05, 01:38 PM
#14
Hi....
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: bay area
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by bolo_fd
hahaha i did the same exact thing on one of my lights while watching tv which ever way u do it just pay attention!!!
. My condolences to whatever you melted .Jeremy
03-26-05, 01:53 PM
#15
I
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 599
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
also make sure the oven is preheated lol
When I did this I didnt preheat the oven and the oven was way hotter than it should have been while it warmed up to the right temp and I got a nasty scar on the lights :\
When I did this I didnt preheat the oven and the oven was way hotter than it should have been while it warmed up to the right temp and I got a nasty scar on the lights :\
03-26-05, 03:47 PM
#16
RX-7 Bad Ass
Thread Starter
iTrader: (55)
Partially why it's a real good idea to have an oven thermometer - you really need to watch the temp. No need to put the oven on pre-heat - I just set it to "bake" and "250", and it warmed up in no time. That's not much heat for the oven to produce.
I was going to take pics, but they look like every other '96+ taillight conversion out there
Dale
I was going to take pics, but they look like every other '96+ taillight conversion out there
Dale
03-26-05, 10:22 PM
#18
Hi....
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: bay area
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, I know this is stupid... but can you post a pic of where the cover comes apart from the headlight when opening? I just wanna make sure so I don't end up forcing something that I don't have too. It's better to be safe than sorry.
Jeremy
Jeremy
03-27-05, 11:39 PM
#20
Hi....
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: bay area
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, nm I just separated mine. You can't even see where it seals at until you pry them apart . HEY EVERYONE! You know what I just noticed... in the how-to link... Dale's notes, and everyone else's side notes... THERE'S NO PART IN WHICH IT SAYS TO SAND/CLEAN/PREP THE LENS!!!!!! Did anyone notice this? Or did everyone just spray... please tell me there was sanding/cleaning involved. If there was sanding... I'm assuming you did it AFTER the masking to still have the clearness look on the circles after unmasked. What grit? IF you didn't sand... what did you do? Clean it up real good with soapy warm water? buhhhhh 
Jeremy
. HEY EVERYONE! You know what I just noticed... in the how-to link... Dale's notes, and everyone else's side notes... THERE'S NO PART IN WHICH IT SAYS TO SAND/CLEAN/PREP THE LENS!!!!!! Did anyone notice this? Or did everyone just spray... please tell me there was sanding/cleaning involved. If there was sanding... I'm assuming you did it AFTER the masking to still have the clearness look on the circles after unmasked. What grit? IF you didn't sand... what did you do? Clean it up real good with soapy warm water? buhhhhh Jeremy
03-28-05, 12:03 AM
#21
apeiron
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 1,773
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by jeremyb
Ok, nm I just separated mine. You can't even see where it seals at until you pry them apart . HEY EVERYONE! You know what I just noticed... in the how-to link... Dale's notes, and everyone else's side notes... THERE'S NO PART IN WHICH IT SAYS TO SAND/CLEAN/PREP THE LENS!!!!!! Did anyone notice this? Or did everyone just spray... please tell me there was sanding/cleaning involved. If there was sanding... I'm assuming you did it AFTER the masking to still have the clearness look on the circles after unmasked. What grit? IF you didn't sand... what did you do? Clean it up real good with soapy warm water? buhhhhh
Jeremy
. HEY EVERYONE! You know what I just noticed... in the how-to link... Dale's notes, and everyone else's side notes... THERE'S NO PART IN WHICH IT SAYS TO SAND/CLEAN/PREP THE LENS!!!!!! Did anyone notice this? Or did everyone just spray... please tell me there was sanding/cleaning involved. If there was sanding... I'm assuming you did it AFTER the masking to still have the clearness look on the circles after unmasked. What grit? IF you didn't sand... what did you do? Clean it up real good with soapy warm water? buhhhhh Jeremy
Nope,
I didnt sand or prep mine. They came out fab.
03-28-05, 12:31 AM
#22
Hi....
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: bay area
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by spoolage
Nope,
I didnt sand or prep mine. They came out fab.
I didnt sand or prep mine. They came out fab.
. Well, what was your process? What paint? Did you use primer? Anyone else along with him?Jeremy
03-28-05, 11:12 AM
#24
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Originally Posted by jeremyb
Ok, nm I just separated mine. You can't even see where it seals at until you pry them apart .
.
Originally Posted by jeremyb
HEY EVERYONE! You know what I just noticed... in the how-to link... Dale's notes, and everyone else's side notes... THERE'S NO PART IN WHICH IT SAYS TO SAND/CLEAN/PREP THE LENS!!!!!! Did anyone notice this?
03-28-05, 03:28 PM
#25
Hi....
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: bay area
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Kento
From the how-to link: "Then use a green scrubbing pad to roughen up the glossiness of the lenses so that the paint will adhere better. Finally use a moist paper towel to clean the surfaces." I used 220/400 grit paper instead of scotchbrite.
. Didn't see that. I'll probably use 400 grit since I already have some.Jeremy