As some of you may know I am starting to produce some custom parts for certain rx-7 applications. One is a 3-rotor conversion kit that utilizes the factory subframe. Then I realized some parts for this conversion may be wanted by other 13B FD3s owners as well. SO here you go!

These are fully custom machined water pump outlets for any FD waterpump. I replaces the big, bulky, and ugly factory outlet/ast with a nice free flowing outlet. It was very carfully machined for a exact fit, each one is double checked for clearance before leaving my shop. Comes with the included allen bolts for a much cleaner looking appearance as well. Even features a groove cut in the center of the outlet where the hose clamp will go, to produce a leak-proof seal. Price per one is $80.00, I currently have 3 made, more will be produced soon as orders come in. Thanks!!

 

Also can be custom anodized. If enough people want the same color, at least 4 people, it would add $20 more per oder. If 8 people agree on the same color, then $10 more, and so on. If only one person wants a specific color, then it would be unfortunately $60 more.

 

I noticed it doesn't have a hose bead on it. I see it has grooves in it, but I would feel a little uneasy using something on my cooling system that did not have a bead. That's just my opinion

 

It tapers in the center, but maybe I can get a larger lip on it.

 

how do you fill the system? if using stock radiator position...is this a benefit only to vertical mounted radiators?

 

EDIT: I guess you could use this with an AST, but you would have to plug the side hose inlet and it would take forever to fill the system... and you would need to modify the upper radiator hose.

 

doubt I'll need one of these with my electric water pump set-up...

how do you think your coolant jackets will like 5 mins of fans and coolant flushing after shutdown?

 

dubulup- Could you please let me know how that works out for you? What kit did you buy for this?

 

Any pics of this bad boy installed on a FD?

 

Kit??? haha!! I don't use kits. This is still in the developement stages...



hows this for a custom radiator? with -16AN lines

 

Holy Shiet O__o

 

Thats pretty nice. Hope you don't bottom out on a speed bump or something. But DAMN thats some nice fab work and welds.

 

I will have a better pic in a little while, but this is the prototype on my 3-rotor.

 

Woo hooo! Looks nice! Can't wait to see it again. Or more like HEAR it again. Sex. Pure sex.

Tony

 

I'm interested in this, but im curious as to how it actually "works". Mine's a "standard" FD engine, standard rad, etc. If this replaces the "big, bulky, and ugly factory outlet/ast"... the original filler neck/cap is eliminated? where would you fill coolant thru, then? Can you keep the AST with this mod? And if you do keep the AST, you fill coolant thru that?

Thanks in advance.

 

yes you keep the ast... thats pretty much were your gonna fill it from. i would also like the rim at the end of the outlet if possible to machine another set... keep us posted

 

You would have to modify your AST. I really think it's more trouble than it's worth. It's going to take forever to fill the system and it's going to be hard to remove all the air with the modification made to your AST.

 

If you look back at my pic, you can see the tank I purchased from miezer. It has a built in radiator cap, is all polished aluminum, and has a over flow nozzle too. I ran the bottom of the tank down to the small nipple on the koyo radiator. Then I just unplug the 3/8" upper coolant line off the top back side of the water pump to act as a air vent, and fill it up. It really didnt take that long at all to fill it up, and once it did, its COMPLETELY purged of any air at all, since your pushing the water from the bottom up. I will try to add a lip to the outlet, but seriously, I blew up a rad. hose before it even slipped a millimeter on something without even ribs and recessed. The lip adds alot of stretching to the radiator hose, and when it breaks, it usually breaks just past the clamp for this reason I think. But I will try anyway....

 

So you're saying we would have to:
1. modify our current AST or buy a new one (some have eliminated it)
2. modify or fabricate a new upper radiator hose
3. remove the crossover pipe and pressure tank in order to fill the system (to access the water pump hose)
just to eliminate something you feel is big, bulky and ugly, but is completely functional and makes servicing the cooling system a breeze?

Hmmm... I'll pass. I don't think many 13B guys will want to go there either. But it's still a great idea for the correct application.

 

Hey, thanks. Additional Q's if you dont mind... can i just use the *standard aluminium* AST and route it the same way as *standard / normal*? ie: you run the coolant lines exactly, but use your outlet to *just* replace the old bulky thing? Hence, you fill coolant via the AST. Am i making any sense here? And would you need any gasket / sealant / or the likes, in conjunction with this outlet?

THanks again. Joe

 

See post #19

 

I didnt really claim/ think about people using with entirely stock systems, I think its more for guys with aluminum ast's or have went with a front mount intercooler, making the outlet much nicer flow to the newly positioned rad. Or custom V-mount setups. But it was made primarly for 20B conversion with my kit, but thought maybe someone else with custom needs would want it too, as one has already. Also a lip has been added, so all of them have a lip now.

 

Ok, pardon me, but just to clarify alittle bit more here;

1. what do we need to modify to our AST, other than getting the aluminium one?
2. ...
3. the water pump hose is the hose from the TB coolant passages, correct? Do we need to vent that, when filling up? i've plugged mine up, does this mean i cannot perform this *mod*?

TIA... again.

 

Quite a bit of trouble involved but to each his own.

 

A aluminum ast would be better for reliability. As far as you plugging up your top water line, did you thread and tap it? Or weld it shut? If there is no way to vent it, then you could maybe use one of these two options,#1 if you have aluminum rad. and a front mount intercooler, weld on the first pic to your rad. #2 splice the second pic into your upper rad. hose and eliminate the ast altogether.