Cruise control problem/ and a rust problem
#1
Cruise control problem/ and a rust problem
seems like it only wants to work sometimes, green light comes on saying cruise but sometimes it doesn't catch... i know there is a brake/clutch sensor, just wondering exactly where they are to check if they are good.
also i took off my battery tray because i was going to figure out a way to mount the odyssey battery and i just noticed this.. its not anywhere else on the car but here, i don't know why, about how much would a body shop ask for to repair this? if anyone would know
also i took off my battery tray because i was going to figure out a way to mount the odyssey battery and i just noticed this.. its not anywhere else on the car but here, i don't know why, about how much would a body shop ask for to repair this? if anyone would know
#2
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Go to the FAQ page at the top of this forum, download the "Body Electrical Service Manual", Section Q-10. There is a Troubleshooting test using the CC buttons which will more than likely pinpoint your problem.
Your rust problem is due to battery acid. A body shop will not be cheap.
Your rust problem is due to battery acid. A body shop will not be cheap.
#3
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
The corrosion is simply from the years of proximity to the battery, and maybe a spill or leak sometime in the car's life.
It doesn't appear to have compromised the structual integrity of anything. And since it's not really visible, I'd get some stuff like POR-15 and fix it yourself. http://www.por15.com/
It doesn't appear to have compromised the structual integrity of anything. And since it's not really visible, I'd get some stuff like POR-15 and fix it yourself. http://www.por15.com/
#4
sleeper
iTrader: (6)
The corrosion is simply from the years of proximity to the battery, and maybe a spill or leak sometime in the car's life.
It doesn't appear to have compromised the structual integrity of anything. And since it's not really visible, I'd get some stuff like POR-15 and fix it yourself. http://www.por15.com/
It doesn't appear to have compromised the structual integrity of anything. And since it's not really visible, I'd get some stuff like POR-15 and fix it yourself. http://www.por15.com/
#5
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
I wouldn't sandblast anything that close to the motor and suspension. If you want to re-paint it, then DA it or sand it down by hand.
And to the OP: There is both a brake light switch and clutch safety switch on the respective pedals under the dash. Either will disengage the CC.
And to the OP: There is both a brake light switch and clutch safety switch on the respective pedals under the dash. Either will disengage the CC.
#6
Thanks, i guess when i actually have time ill order that stuff, but before that i would just be very curious how much they would want to do, for future references.. lol i was reading on that site and it say "If you are perspiring and a bead of sweat
drops into the POR-15 can, the paint is ruined
and should be thrown out. It won’t stick
properly."
now as for the cc, i know there is a clutch and brake switch, i believe one or both of thos are my main problem. i was going to ask where exactly were they but ill just look in the FSM
drops into the POR-15 can, the paint is ruined
and should be thrown out. It won’t stick
properly."
now as for the cc, i know there is a clutch and brake switch, i believe one or both of thos are my main problem. i was going to ask where exactly were they but ill just look in the FSM
#7
Derwin
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I don't understand why not SB. Took a small sandblaster to that area (handheld) and it worked great.
As for the POR you shouldnt have any chance of getting any sweat in the can as you should take out small amounts at a time into another container to do your work. Working out of the main pot will drastically reduce the life of the product.
As for the POR you shouldnt have any chance of getting any sweat in the can as you should take out small amounts at a time into another container to do your work. Working out of the main pot will drastically reduce the life of the product.
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#8
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Whatever abrasive media you use tends to get into everything. It will drop into all the little nooks and crannies in the engine bay...and I doubt you could shroud it well enough. If it gets into the wrong nook or crannie, it can shorten the life of that part. I just don't like using a blaster around bits that have to move with other bits....bushings, hinges, joints, intakes, bolt holes etc. YRMV.
#10
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (4)
they sell a gel you can get at any auto parts store that will remove rust, just paint it on and let it do its thing. You'll have to clean it off with some brake parts cleaner to get it off good. They also sell a "paint prep" cleaner you can use to make sure that the surface is nice and clean before you put on POR-15. You should also look into Rust Bullet, it is like POR-15 but they claim it is better. You can apply it on with a sponge roller brush, works well. Then you can apply some spray paint to match the car.
#15
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
I don't remember them being all that bad to access...even for old and slightly chubby guys like me.
I just remembered "adam c" posting up this thread from a couple of years ago https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=switch . He's a cheap bastard, but it might be of some help if there's a problem with that switch.
I just remembered "adam c" posting up this thread from a couple of years ago https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ghlight=switch . He's a cheap bastard, but it might be of some help if there's a problem with that switch.
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