My Cruise control recently stopped working. It used to work fine, then more and more often it wouldn't work. Now it's broken altogether.

The light on the "On/Off" switch comes on, and when I hit "set" on the st. wheel, the green "Cruise" light comes on, but the accelerator doesn't hold down. There is absolutely no response from the unit, AFAIK.

I replaced the cruise control actuator (everything but the cable) but it still doesn't work.

Is the CC cable supposed to have a half inch or more of slack at idle? Also, is there any way to test the CC unit without running the car? Obviously I can't exactly hook a multimeter to it and drive around. Anyone else have this problem?

TIA

 

I have the whole unit for sale if you like, other than that i have no real information for you.. sorry man

 

just remove it.

 

1/2 INCH slack is to much , pull the real on the throttle body to see if it opens the plates, then take the slack out with the adjuster on the actuater end of the cable. be sure the cable is not broken. It will not work below 30 MPH , I think.

 

check your clutch switch, it could be failed in the declutched position and the CC turns off when you declutch.

Wade

 

Try pulling the interior fuses and putting them back in. It could be a bad contact.

 

I recently installed a remote start alarm from DEI which required jumping the wire attatched to the clutch (so that the ignition thinks the clutch is depressed) and I have a similar issue, doesnt bug me as I dont use the cruise at all, but you may want to check to make sure that it is seated correctly.
-Good Luck!

 

Thanks for the help folks! I'll try all of this.. I just replaced the CC unit ($10 used) but I'm starting to think there's something wrong with the cable iteslf. If that doesn't work, I'll try the clutch switch and the fuses, and let everyone know!

The light comes on, so I think the CC thinks it's coming on, but it doesn't hold throttle. Maybe the cable is the answer.

Anyone know of a good way to test the CC w/o driving around?

BTW, I use it, because frequently there are a lot of cops around here at night, out looking for anything that could even closely resemble a drunk driver (high fatality area); and I don't want the hassle if I have a slightly heavy foot. I'd rather set it and forget it.

 

Dood, I'm having exactly the same problem. It works once in while, then just quits. I'd trouble shoot it with you but it's in the electrical section of the Mazda repair manual which I don't have. If I could get my hands on that I know I could figure it out.

Let me know if you find out anything, I've got a new radiator to install this week.

Just a thought - how about lubing the cable or cleaning the contacts on the steering wheel switch with a pencil eraser? You can lube the cable by holding one end up in the air and letting some light weight machine oil dribble down, you may need to suspend it vertically with some wire and put a few drops on it at a time. It will eventually work it's way all the along the cable.

Keep in touch.

 

Okay. As I stated before, even after I replaced the CC unit it still didn't work. Well, I took the cap off of the NEW unit that I installed, and it turns out instead of the cable winding around the pulley under there, it just went directly to the sleeve! After I wrapped the cable back around the pulley, it worked just fine.

RonKMiller - I'm not sure if this is even close to the original problem, as my CC was intermittent at first, then failed later. I would think that if it works at all, it wouldn't be the cable. I don't know if you can take the CC motor assembly apart, but I'm gonna find out tomorrow.

I do believe that if the green "cruise" light comes on, then it's not the switch, or the speed sensor. The light wouldn't work if either of those failed. I'm beginning to believe that the original problem was the CC motor/actuator, but when I replaced it I screwed up the install, so it had similar symptoms after.

That used CC unit was the best $10 I've spent in a LONG time!!.

EDIT: RonKMiller, also my CC used to drop out on the freeway randomly.. I would set it, and it would run for awhile then just let off (light still on). Then, I started seeing problems where it wouldn't grab at all, but only so often. Soon after that, it went kaput and never grabbed.

 

The cable was in very good shape, no rust or corrosion of anykind. It slid freely in the sleeve, and I don't think that it should require lube. There aren't any tight bends to cause binding of the cable and warrant lubricant.

 

Cool, I've only had one fail before on my Chevy Truck and it was the actuator, makes sense since it's the only mechanical part there, and over time and underhood heat............$10? Good buy, I'll be lucky to find one for that! Cruise on!

 

openup the trash can and throw it in (it saves a few pounds)

 

I like EVERYTHING on my ride to work, even the little light bulb that illuminates the ring around the cigarette lighter. (I'll bet yours is burned out.....)

My ten year anniversary with my FD3S is coming up soon and I want the old girl to feel like the sassy young bitch that she is. She's also getting new grey and charcoal perforated leather seats handcrafted by ME.

While I believe in ghetto mods I will not drive a ghetto vehicle.

 

anyone have updates?

 

Check the brake and clutch switches located at the top of the pedals for continuity. My brake switch was worn out. You'll need to take them out - make sure you mark the threads with a paint pen or nail polish so that they are installed the right "distance" when putting them back in. Saves a lot of guessing and re-adjusting.