haha, well your definately a brain surgeon of the FD

 

wastegate electrical solenoid is under the UIM? so isnt it easier to replace the pill with a straight valve

 

so my line doesnt have a pill on it? which means i have newer turbos with pill on the turbo nipple? How would a boost controller lower boost to the 7psi spring if the vaccuum line is already un-restricted...i have to drill out the restricted nipple?

straight line just like the picture except shorter

 

You are not grasping any of this are you?



I could explain exactly how all this works 100 times and I dont think you'd be any closer to knowing what I am talking about, so I guess I'll just cut my losses right now and save a few thousand keystrokes.

 

what im saying is if i unplug the electrical solenoid...i may get 7lbs..but how will i ever control the boost back to 10lbs if its unplugged

my wastegate lines already have NO restriction becuz they do not have pills so how the hell could a boost controller or running a straight through valve allow me to run wastegate spring pressure?

 

Have you actually checked the nipple tree for a restrictor? I had to drill mine. I can't remember the exact drill bit size I used, but whatever will slide into the nipple with a little bit of room around it - try 1/8" or 3/16". Dip the bit in axle grease, making sure to get it down into the grooves near the tip, as this will retain most (if not all) of the shavings on the bit. The restrictor itself is thin - put light pressure on the drill until it gives way, and then stop before you put a hole through the other side of the tube.

Only drill the WG nipple - don't mess with the PC nipple until after you've solved the spiking/creep issue, and only then if you have some reason to do so.

Make absolutely sure there is no pill in the line to the actuator.

Then get a suitable vacuum cap and cap the output nipple of the WG actuator. Use a zip-tie on the cap. This will disable solenoid vent control. Also plug the line that connected to the output nipple to prevent a vacuum leak.

Now you're at the minimum amount of boost you can achieve without porting the wastegate or adding restriction to the exhaust. If things are now controllable, leave everything as it is and add a boost controller in the WG actuator line. I prefer manual controllers and have had excellent results with a Hallman RX.

As you turn the boost back up with the controller, you'll probably start getting some creep back as you approach normal boost levels. This is thanks to the midpipe. Now's when you resort to an exhaust restrictor.

 

Your last sentence would be the easiest thing for him to do and probably save his engine.

Tim

 

I agree. I would go through the extra trouble to do all of it, but you could just slap a restrictor on and live with it. However, it does help to get the solenoid and any restrictors out of the picture, as you get more solid/repeatable boost control, and it can help with spiking issues due to slow reaction of the actuator.

 

i have stock catback

and even so

had same problem with only intakes and dp months back just not quite as high psi

 

Okay, how does that change anything?

 

doesnt just saying maybe your right it might work out fine even with the midpipe

ill get to drilling...so ill drill the tree nipple connecting the short line to the wg-actuator

thanks!

 

Sounds more like your vent lean feature on the PMC isn't working correctly? Have you got it turned on or off? It's been a while since I had the PMC, Peter used to say leave it on all the time, then others said to turn it off after a few runs. Normally you don't hit spikes with just an intake and dp like you said you were even before the midpipe, but the cold weather can do that.

Tim

 

tim, ive tried tons of stuff with the pmc...setting the 900 options to 8psi maps on sec and primary...adjusting the 400 boost maps to 8psi pri and secondary...adjusting the manual vent adjment on 3rd switch to 4c+ and higher numbers...i donno what these numbers mean but none of the vent learn on/off did anything...

- on setting 1 with only dp i was able to keep it at 11lbs all the way through both turbos
- as soon as i added intakes it was uncontrollable, midpipe its just the same way but higher spikes...i think the solenoid is worn out...so im going to pull the pressure chamber and unplug the solenoid see if it drops me to 7psi

 

Figured it out!

unplugged both precontrol, and wastegate control solenoids right behind press chamber!!!!

- 7lbs all the way to redline in 2nd
7 raising up to 9.5lbs by redline ine 3rd

so the spiking is COMPLETELY different than creep...the creep is ONLY 2.5lbs of boost...4th gear pull all the way up to 6k rpms is 7lbs...only hits 8 or 9 at redline which is 130mphs plus...the car has ZERO hesitation and no bucking at all anymore in the transition feels like a brand new car as far as smoothness except considerably slower at 7psi


so i should be able to add a Greddy Profec or something and allow IT to control the boost back up to 10 which mean ill have 10 off the line and creep up to 12.5 at redline PERFECT

- when i install the profec should i reconnect the precontrol solenoid? should i still cap off the ends of the actuators

 

Glad to hear that worked for you. I guess you don't have a restrictor in the WG line or nipple after all. Be careful relying on the boost creep to stay within a certain range. With the midpipe, I bet you'll end up with an exhaust restrictor when you turn it back up to normal levels.

 

Be careful with that creep. I personally would port the wastegate or at least throw a restrictor in the exhaust. What is 2.5psi today, in 3rd gear, could be a lot more in 5th gear, driving uphill on a cold night when it's not as easy to watch the boost gauge.

Plus the creep may be much worse with more boost and higher overall airflow thru the engine.

 

good point, ill definately purchase a restriction plate