MILD7

I was reading a post about the procedure to the temp. o-ring failure using CRC Copper Block Weld. My question is... after adding the block weld... run it, and let it sit for several hours... do you drain it again, or do you just let it run in your cooling system indefinitely (or until the next time you replace coolant). I'm asking because I'm not certain if it's safe to have all those copper granules running through my system while I continue to put miles on my car. Thanks in advance!

Brian

CantGoStraight

I did this patch to my car and the biggest thing I had problems with was getting the soap (all of it) out of the system. I followed it to the letter and it worked (no carbon or oin in coolant syatem now). As for leaving it in I drained enough water out so I could add coolant but left the block seal in and have had no problems with it. If you don't want it in your overflow tank (it will go there when the coolant is pusher there from heat soak, or expantion) then you may want to flush it. I'm going to the Evans coolant system so I'll be flushing my system and changing hoses.

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

i left it in, u can flush it if u want, but its not real nesicary. like jack said hardest part is gettin the de-greaser out
make sure u take the engine drian plug out 2...

if u have the time u might wana pull the thermostat when u doi the mod so it will circulate faster, then re-place it when u done...either way your wastin a day doin it
.mine worked till i started runnin 15psi agin... then i had these wierd sparkles allover the back of my car(copperdust) it was kinda cool

RonKMiller

I left my in and threw in some Water Wetter to give the water pump some lubrication. I did not put regular anti-freeze back in since living in Tucson I really don't have to worry about freezing overnight. A really cold night here is 25F, and mine sits in my garage every night. That was over 5,000 miles ago with no problems.
My rationale was that it would continue to "pack in" around the leaking area and perhaps fortify it - but this is pure speculation on my part... It does seem like I have a lot less copper granules in the remaining solution - hardly any. Probably the biggest risk is that they could be plugging up some of the small coolant passages - and there are some REALLY small ones in the FD3S - as well. Who knows? The label says to drain it, but it also says you cannot overtreat with it. Good question. I would like to talk to a chemist with CRC about it. What will really be interesting is when I eventually rebuild my engine to see where all of it went! It won't be hard to spot.

MILD7

Uh... something appears to be wrong. Already flushed and rinsed the cooling system thoroughly (In fact... took me more than a day... just to make sure). Filled the cooling system up with clean/distilled water and added the CRC copper block weld, as per instructed. Let the sucker run for almost 30 min. and then my car started backfiring seriously (this is at idle... never revved the engine). Water temp. was fine (below half). Heater was on at full. Almost sounded like the MAP sensor hose came loose. Checked it and it was fine. Plugs were just replaced yesterday (7's and 9's and no I did not mix them up). Plug wires replaced this summer. I revved the engine "a little" to see if it would clear up... and it did not. I immediately shut off the engine... and will let sit for at least 3 hours as instructed. I'm wondering if some of that copper stuff got in the engine. What else would cause my car to start backfiring like crazy? Idle dropped down to 500 when it started backfiring. No white smoke (more like black) out of the exhaust... so water is most likely not fouling the plugs. Any suggestions... please advise!

Brian

MILD7

Anyone?

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

alot of that copper went through my engine and right out the tail pipe, just sounds like the comp tripped a code or for some reason hopped into cold start mode
reset the ecu, start it and drive arround for some reason our cars hate sitting and idleing

MILD7

OK... woke up this morning... and reset the ECU. Problem is STILL there... running on one rotor sounds like. Don't know why this is happening... small trace of black smoke coming out of exhaust. When I rev it to like 3K, there's a lot of backfire. It sounds just like a MAP sensor prob. But I highly doubt its the MAP sensor.... everything is all plugged in. All I did was let the sucker idle for nearly 30 min. when it all start happening on it's own. Going to pull the plugs next and see what's going on inside there. But ANY insight would be dearly appreciated. I"m stuck here at my folks house 5hours away from home... don't have my tools or my bible/FSM with me.

MILD7

OK OK... just about sh#% my pants this morning. I pulled the plugs... nothing abnormal... Stuck em back in and decided to take her for a drive. Running like sh*$ the first couple of miles of easy street driving. Back firing like a mother. After about a couple miles... engine started to hiccup... sputter (my baby was trying to breathe). And low and behold... she fired up.... I was like SWEET !! AFter then, she was running normal... except when I got on the gas just a little (like half throttle)... then she would cut out again... and backfiring. sounds like I have some carbon build up somewhere. NOW to see if the copper block weld held up... let's see how lucky I'm gonna get today.

Thans Bacon and Ron for your help!

Brian

RonKMiller

Hmmm.. been thinking about this one - kinda strange. I know this seems overly simple but try putting in new plugs. It does seem to cure a host of ills, it's cheap and easy to do and you can certainly eliminate a potential problem fast. Good luck!

MILD7

I'm think I need to change my plugs. I decided to go ahead and drive it for the 5 hour trip from my folks place in norcal to socal. It ran smoothly except when boost went past 7 pounds. After it hit 7 pounds... the would just cut out... almost as if it hit some kind of boost limiter or something. I would ease off the throttle and things would be fine again. The cut out is not rpm dependent since I can climb all the way to redline if I ease up to it. But one i stab the throttle and boost climbs... it cuts out. I'm hoping its not a sensor. But I doubt it since the problem arose simply from idling for a long period of time. Nonetheless, at least it idles now and is somewhat drivable. I even made it up the grapevine without incident. Going to pick up plugs tomorrow when Mazdatrix opens.

Got up this morning to check the coolant level... and to my glorious suprise... I only had to add maybe about a half a cup of water to the filler neck! This is after a 5 hour drive mind you! To say the least, I am impressed and fortunate that this CRC copper block weld stuff works!

NOw about those plugs....

MILD7

After reading several posts on this forum... I've taken the advice and resetted my ECU. And to my suprise... HOLA! Problem solved... boosting just fine right up to redline! Very nice... I LOVE this forum. Did a first/second gear run with my buds BPU gs-r. My car used to pull hard... something's up... think my cat's clogged or something... one thing after another... I tell ya!

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

RonKMiller

All you need to do now is change the blinker fluid in your turn signals and everything will be OK! Don't be surprised if it takes another week of small fillups every day to burb the system completely. I guess I was right way back when you started having symptoms. I've always said I would rather be lucky than good. Let's just hope it holds.....If not, dump in another bottle, it took two for mine to work. I can't believe this stuff has apparently worked again! Cool.........

CantGoStraight

I don't get it. All I did was change out a bunch of stuff on the cooling system and now my car runs like MILD7's I just don't get these cars. I installed my Koyo radiator, new water pump, new thermostat, upper & lower radiator hose, coolant hoses to the turbos', and a bypass hose under the vacuum chamber. Get everything back together and when I started it up it smoked like a bug fogger, poped, backfired, missed and idled like it had a serious cam int it. Vacuum is sitting around 8 to 10 hg. and will snap your neck when it hit's 3500 rpm. Will try to reset ECU in the AM. Tired of messing with this thing......any ideas would be appreciated. Later,Jack

MILD7

Hey Jack,

I feel your frustrations bro. I guess the reason why my car started idling like ****... was because I had let it sit at idle for nearly 30 min. After that it was like the car was running on one rotor or something... would "barely" idle back firing... almost waking up my neighbors with black smoke spewing out the back. I couldn't understand why because all I simply did was let the car idle. The next morning... I decided that I would take it for a drive to see what would happen. It started hard... and had to keep on the gas. Sounded like a broken down lawn mower. I drove like 2 miles around the neighborhood like this backfiring with absolute no power (I swore it was my MAP sensor). But like I said in my previous message... it started to sputter... and started to run smooth again. It was a miracle for me. It still hiccuped here and there, but on the most part... my car just needed to clear it's throat after idling for so long in the garage. Of course... I hadn't reset my ECU at that time... so it would run smooth until I would gas it where boost would climb to like 7 lbs... fixed that by resetting my ECU. I hope you figure out your prob. These guys on the forum are very helpful... just keep trying and don't give up!

CantGoStraight

Thanks Mild7 : I've spent three days on this car taking my time and not rushing on anything so as to not screw something up. (I had to remove alot of things to get the radiator and water pump replaced so I tried to be very careful. I'm worried by draining and flushing the cooling system it may have undone the block seal treatment I had done, and now coolant may be getting into the engine (except the smoke is black) and vacuum reading is 8 to 10 hg acts like a major vacuum leake. There is a couple other guys with the same issue. I'll try the ecu once I get up......damn car try and take care of it and look how it acts ! ! ! !

RonKMiller

What was the rationale for the bypass hose under the vacuum chamber?

I don't think you have a coolant leak issue, and draining the system would not undo the Copper Block Weld.

My guess is that Mild 7's problem was wet fouling of the plugs from prolonged idle. Engines (especially ours) hate to idle since they never reach operating temperature. They eventually "cleared" themselves by him driving around. Even brand new plugs can foul under these conditions. Put in a set of new plugs, make sure your vacuum line to your map sensor is not split and is tight and re-connect your vacuum hoses according to the factory diagram - unless you have other mods - if so, all bets are off!

CantGoStraight

I replaced the water hose under the vacuum chamber becasue I had one develope a pin hole leak in it. I figured while I was changing hoses I'd do that one as well. The only ones I have left to do are the heater, and AWS hoses. If there are any more I'm not aware of them. I'm going to get new plugs and install soon as I'm off (I'm hoping they fouled as you stated, The only mods installed are the ECU, downpipe and an aftermarket catback, and pettit cold air intake. The car was fine before I tackled the cooling system. Thanks for you input. Jack

SA3R

Holy 11 year thread revival!

I am doing this so that anyone unfortunate enough to be searching about the CRC Block Weld thing can find this bit of information I gleaned:

Sodium silicate can be used to fill gaps within the head gasket. Commonly used on aluminum alloy cylinder heads, which are sensitive to thermally induced surface deflection, and can be caused by many things including head-bolt stretching, deficient coolant delivery, high cylinder head pressure, over-heating, vapor-lock, etc.

"Liquid glass" (sodium silicate) is added to the system through the radiator, and allowed to circulate. Sodium silicate is suspended in the coolant until it reaches the cylinder head. At 100–105 °C sodium silicate loses water molecules to form a glass seal with a re-melt temperature above 810 °C.

A sodium silicate repair will last two years, sometimes longer. The repair occurs rapidly, and symptoms disappear instantly. This repair only works when the sodium silicate reaches its "conversion" temperature at 100–105 °C.

Sodium silicate is the active ingredient in CRC Block Weld. The water in the coolant system MUST reach 100-105C at least once for the repair to form, and the cooling system MUST be free of all glycol coolant. Straight water ONLY.

Once it has reached 100-105C, the car must be shut off and parked overnight.

Restarting it and attempting to heat it back up the next morning to further help the repair is futile. Sodium Silicate only requires 105C once, to activate the repair chemical process.

WHY am I posting this in an 11 year old thread you ask? I talked to a chemist today at work about the stuff, for use in a Bitsumishi. I learned valuable things and I wanted to put them here for any other poor unfortunate people who use the search function. I am trying to help.

Now, let this thread sink back into the depths of whence it came............

getgone

iTrader: (2)

[My guess is that Mild 7's problem was wet fouling of the plugs from prolonged idle. Engines (especially ours) hate to idle since they never reach operating temperature. They eventually "cleared" themselves by him driving around. Even brand new plugs can foul under these conditions. Put in a set of new plugs, make sure your vacuum line to your map sensor is not split and is tight and re-connect your vacuum hoses according to the factory diagram - unless you have other mods - if so, all bets are off![/QUOTE]

My guess is Mild 7 fouled the O2 sensor and was fortunate to clear it out again. That probably tripped it into limp mode and the reset got him back to normal.

Edit: Christ, I didn't realize this was an ancient thread. Never mind.