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Great thread! My problem was the horn would blow whenever I turned on the headlights. Plus the lamps for the driver door lock and ignition lock stopped working. Replacing the caps per this thread solved the problems.
But I have a correction. Digikey part number 493-1769-ND in the cap list for C6 is for a polarized electrolytic cap. However, Mazda used a bi-polarized (also known as non-polarized) cap for C6. Be sure to purchase a bi-polarized cap for C6. Bi-polarized costs only a few cents more than polarized.
I am experiencing issues with my car where it doesn't want to start at all. I'm not sure if this is tied to the CPU, may be failing. I replaced my starter, bypassed the security relay and clutch switch. I also checked my ignition switch and replaced it with a working unit. The car still doesn't want to turn over. I'm not sure if the CPU is causing the car to not recognize that I am trying to start it. I also notice my windows won't go up or down. I checked all my fuses and did notice one was blown the B2 Fuse. All the other ones were fine.
NEED HELP!
I saw atkinrotary has one in stock, but before I shell out 315 dollars I would like to know what the CPU controls. https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/9...1-67-560B.html
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Andre The Giant,
Great post. Been suffering from crazy seatbelt buzzer that stays on and the seat belt warning signal that flashes ALL THE TIME. Now recently I get this Click, Click at about the same rate as the flashing seat belt. What is that about? Discovered it is the "Starter Cut Relay". What does that have to do with the seat belt? Discovered the CPU #2 thread on failing caps. I changed them all and life is good. The seatbelt buzzer is on for a short time and then both the light and buzzer go off.... like when the car was new. The clicking from the Starter Cut Relay has gone away.
For sure C5 was bad with the lead eaten off at the base of the capacitor and I believe C1 had some material exiting the leads at the cap base. .
That information should be at the top of the list for "How to fix obscure problems" list.
Thanks for the info.
Yeh CPU 2 has a lot of issues and my soldering is novice at best and those things are getting pricey (one CPU 2 or one EWP kit)....so I deleted it in favor of a Programmable Logic Controller
My car developed a problem where I would hear a relay clicking at around 1Hz when the ambient temperature was cold (below 5'C).
(The indicators/hazard lights continued to function correctly. These click slightly faster than the clicking from the fault)
The clicking occured once the ignition was on, with or without starting the car. It would continue clicking for 1 min - 5 minutes
depending on how cold it was.
When the relay was clicking, the window winders would only work when the relay was on.
This forum/thread helped me resolve it, so I am adding pics and information for people with later model cars.
My car is a 2001 RB-S (manual, JDM). It has a F110 cpu 2 (BCM).
I located a faulty electrolytic capacitor by connecting the main circuit board to the loom, without the case, and then
sprayed each capacitor in turn with a little freeze spray. The problem appeared when I sprayed C4, and stopped when
I put my finger on it, heating it up.
Here is a list of the capacitors and their values -
C1 47uF 16v
C2 10uF 35v
C3 220uF 16v
C4 0.47uF 50v
C5 22uF 16v (bi-polar)
C6 3.3uF 50v
C7 33uF 16V
I replaced all except C5 (for which I sourced a spare of the wrong value).
This resolved the problem, and the BCM is functioning properly, including on cold mornings.
F110 exterior No bad solder joints visible No visible leakage from capacitors, or bloating Using freeze spray, located fault to C4 After capacitor replacement After capacitor replacement
07-06-16, 02:44 PM
