ok guys, heres a problem or two.

im 90% done with my swap, all i have to do is hook up my drive shaft and put a manual companion plate in. i have found a manual companion plate, but the guy said that he cant get it off his car, i have never taken a manual one off, is there some kind of special way to do this?

next, i kept my auto harness, and put a manual ecu in my car, and i have done everything else that is required of a swap, and i rewired my harness, so that my car will start, while using the auto. harness, it starts good, heres my prob.: i cranked my car, and it idled down smoothly, and i gave it some gas after it warmed up a second, and it did fine the first 3 or 4 times i revved it up, but then i did it again, and it sputtered really bad, like it was cutting out at about 4500 rpm, (i kept my old bezel, and rpm gauge, from the auto, i believe that the manul cars red line at 500 more rpms). and the check engine light would come on, but then i would let off the gas, and it would idle fine, what the heck is wrong here?

thanks for ur time, i just dont want to blow my engine up,

paul

 

There is a gold collar ring that needs to be pulled away from the clutch. You can do this from the access panels on the underside of the bellhousing.

Try disconnecting your battery for about 10 minutes to reset your computer. It might be in limp mode.

Hope this helps.

 

the, manual companion plate is on the differential, where the driveshaft connects to the rearend.

and the car has has the battery unhooked for two days, and i just reconnected it, to start it, and thats when my problem occured, thanks, i will try again, though,


thanks paul

 

bump

 

bizzump!

 

yo

 

goodness, this isnt a tough question even! hello?

 

ok new update, like i said, that baby sputters around 3000rpms, bad, cuts out, and i figued out it has a code 33, solenoid valve-port air bypass, what the heck is that? and how would u correct it?

 

Port air bypass solenoid lives in the Air control valve system that is mounted to the lower intake manifold, UNDER the upper intake manifiold. The solenoid is actuated to stop air being pumped into the ports during certain driving conditions. The air helps to allow more complete combustion, and comes from the air pump, i.e. it's an emissions thing. If I recall, the port air is used during cold driving conditions and warmup idle.

At a guess, the ECU is recognizing the solenoid is screwed, and is putting you into limp mode until you fix the solenoid. You can order the port air bypass solenoid and install it yourself, but you will need to pull the upper intake manifold to do so. I don't have access to my manual just now to give you the part number. If you reeeeaaaaly want, I'll look it up for ya!

 

OK, you are looking for part number N250-20-725. It is located on the top of the air control valve assembly. It will have two wires going into it, one black, the other black/white stripe.

There are connectors for these solenoids, burried in the rats nest. Trace the wires down to the connector and disconnect there. The connector is black if I remember, and I'm looking up the wire colors that go into the connector, that is, the wires from the harness to the connector,as opposed to the connector to solenoid (they are NOT black and black/white, I think.).

 

OK, the color is listed as blue, but in my car it was actually black. The other two solenoids that are connected in the same place with the same style connectors have either a black wire with red stripe (split air bypass) or green wire with orange stripe.

Hope any of this helped...

 

dude, thanks alot! i will try to figure this out now, thanks for taking the time and writing all those posts!

thanks again