My friend let me borrow his DV-cam for a day so I figured I would make use of it.

First is just general flooring it around town. Nothing
extreme - some funny parts however.

Second is later at night, roomate's BF driving s2000, roomate filming (she needs to chill out with the zoom). Shows a decent indication of "lag" vs actual acceleration, comparison to other cars, etc.

http://www.anodized.com/~clayne/fd3s/fd01.wmv [89 megs]
http://www.anodized.com/~clayne/fd3s/fd02.wmv [69 megs]

p.s. Let me know if the video bitrate is too high for some of you guys, I can go back and re-encode them later today.

 

wow those are huge videos. I've only watched the first one, there's a lot of extra stuff that you could cut out if you wanted to. Non-seq gets some nice power above 4K...

-s-

 

Car blew off 4 vacuum plugs around the time I was bitching about the idle.

Also forgot to mention, the 15 psi on the boost gauge is at the y-pipe, pre-IC - not the UIM.

 

damn these vids stutter alot but from what i saw, its nice..

anyway to redo them or make them smaller cause i wanna download them but i cant cause it stutters..

 

Thanks for posting the vids. The guy talking about the civic cracked me up.

Based on the pull in second gear, starting at 3k, it appears that the turbos start spooling at about 4k and come on hard around 4500-5000, or just when the second turbo in the sequential system kicks in.....surprise surprise.

Why anyone would prefer this over the sequential system, which spools up at 2700rpms AND has basically the same top end is beyond me.

I really think most people go non-sequential because they don't know how to trouble shoot sequential problems.

 

Your almost on E!!!!! ahhh

 

Great vids man! I liked the way the 7 pulls away from the S2000

 

nevermind

 

Due to the dip between the first and second spooling.

It's the same thing in the end.

Either you want linear predictable smooth pull.

Or you want instant kick, then lull, then secondary kick and pull.

The majority of non-seq people acclimate themselves to the "reduced" low-end and never go back. In my case I didn't have any sequential issues - but I did not like the secondary kick, nor did I like the amount of crap in the bay for seq control.

Also, I never did a flat out 2 krpm pull as it's typically only reasonable in 2nd and 3rd gear - I can do that and film it on a later date.

I drive the car around all of the time - when I want power I get it. When I do get it, it's very predictable and modulatable. It greatly helps that I have a lightweight clutch, flywheel, and pullies.

 

I guess my point is that the CFM delivered by 2 parallel turbos producing a lower system pressure is going to be similar to the primary turbo producing a higher system pressure at a similar CFM. Also, since you do not have to trade off energy to spool the secondary turbo you do not lose in the mid-range area. The sacrifice is of course in the initial spool.

Some of us cannot outright floor it at lower rpm's and have grip the entire time, anyways.

 

damn bro.. your FD makes mine looks hella slow now... lol

 

btw, what are your ET's?

 

Nice vids

 

oh.. before someone else posts.. whats your mod list for the record

Matt

 

Nice vids.


I miss my Vtec. I love that sound.

 

put some gas in that beast!

 

Besides suspension:

Non-seq (TCA still present, but wired open, TPC closed)
Full pullies (alternator, main, waterpump)
Removed PS
Removed A/C
Removed Air-pump
Removed all emissions controls except for stock cat
Removed double-throttle in UIM
Removed CCV
Removed all solenoids except WG/PC pair
K&N cone filters to stock pipes
RB dual-tip exhaust
Bonez downpipe
HKS twin-power
Power FC running base mod map (boost/DC set to around .80 kg/cm^2)
Taylor 8mm plug-wires/relocated coils
Relocated IAT sensor into stock IC outlet tank
8.5 lb JUN 1-piece chromoly flywheel
Pineapple 6-puck sprung clutch
Pillowball rear trailing arms
Pillowball rear toe-links
Solid differential mounts
RE torque brace
Koyo radiator
SARD BOV
About 225 lb of weight reduction from seats, a/c, p/s, non-seq, etc. (another thread already exists on this).
Aftermarket AST/catch tank/etc.

Stock items:

Stock cat.
Stock IC
Stock Y-pipe
Stock injectors
Stock fuel pump

From a month or so ago (strut bar not back on, catch tank not mounted, etc.):





Intake charge temps are not an issue.

 

If Clayne's gas guage is like mine, it would mean I would still have 6 gallons or so of gas. I never go off the guage, just the mileage.

 

Actually I don't know why Mazda listed 20gal capacity, the most I've ever been able to pump into it is 17gal.

I have ran out of gas on a medium incline with amber warning on, however (while warming the car up).

 

clean engine!

 

godamnit. how the hell do you keep that engine so clean... i hate you

 

Well first, I start by removing every unessential control component, vacuum tank, and ancillary pump from the car. This simplifies the system, reduces strain, reduces weight, allows greater air circulation, greater ability to radiate heat off the engine, and provides less things to break.

Plus it helps to paint parts of the engine when you are in rebuild phase.

 

BTW: My engine isn't really all that clean compared to some of the guys on here. If you're having an issue with dirt and/or grease - you'll need to use a degreaser and clean the engine. A lot of work.

I recommend just cleaning it next time you do a rebuild.

 

Next mod should be an IC. When I installed mine my car came alive. Much better Air temp too.

 

Actually next mods are fuel system/WB/DL.

This is in preperation for IC and mid-pipe.