I tried removing the counterweight on my fd and had no luck. Does anyone know of a tool or a trick to get it off? Any help would be great. Thanks

 

T puller and a spacer will get the job done. That is assuming your talking about the rear one.

 

meaning the counterweight pulls straight off right?

I made a tool out of 1/4 inch steel and it bent when I tightened down the bolts (the flywheel mounting bolts) so These are just "fu**ing on there" right? Thanks

 

Ha. Good luck with it. Use Heat. Lots of it. Go to autozone and get a propane tank with the nozzle. Heat the bolts up really good and then pull them. Trick is to get alot of tension on them using the T puller then heat them up really good one by one and as they get hotter start tightening the puller (so that way it pulls, obviously) and eventually it will pop off. I had the same problem when i ordered my J spec for my T2 earlier this year. it was T2 from auto so i had to pull off the flywheel and counter weight to use my 5 speed stuff. What a pain in the ***! But it eventually flew off. Literally it popped off about a good 2 feet so be careful.

 

Just beat it with a brass hammer

 

what bolts would i be pulling on?
maybe im not doing this correctly. ill take photos tomorrow of what im using and post them on here for you guys to laugh at me.

 

If its an auto...

take 2 bolts out of the drive plate (it fixes to the counterweight, not the shaft), leaving the rest in. Loosen the main 54mm E-shaft nut so it sits about a cm out from the counterweight.

Use a hub puller, bolt it to the two bolts youve just taken off,Put a spacer between the E shaft and the middle bolt of the hub puller and tighten it down pretty tight. Whack the drive plate HARD with a hammer all around its edge. Hit it at 12 oclock, 6 oclock, 3 oclock, then 9 oclock. Tighten the middle bolt of the hub puller quarter of a turn, repeat.

Repeat this over and over again and itll pop off eventually, and wont shoot off because the E shaft nut still holds it on. Be careful using heat, you could melt the seals and if you plan to re-use them then thats bad. HEat isnt realy required, although it may help...the end of the E shaft is slightly conical and the counterweight is just friction fitted onto that by tightening down the main 54mm nut on the e shaft.

 

its a manual - ill be putting pics up soon. thanks for all your guys help so far.