Corner seal clearence...
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Corner seal clearence...
Well i did my porting, and am on my way to assembling my motor. My question is does at least half of the corner seal have to have a bridge to ride on. I ported pretty close to max tolerance. It doesnt catch when i turn my motor by hand but it still worries me. How much is the smallest amount of space your would run from the outside of the housing to the edge of the intake port? I am looking for some piece of mind this has been driving me crazy.
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i think i already talked to you, about this and you said that you thought it was max tolorance. I didnt know if there was any other way to be sure the corner seals wouldnt catch. I figure as long as they have less than half of the surface of the corner seal it should not fall it the port. Would that be right....
#4
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It isn't the corner seal you need to worry about but rather the side seal that comes up toward the top of the port vertically as the rotor closes the port.
That side seal must maintain contact with the side housing at the tip or it will break.
It works out to be 11mm from coolant seal groove to edge of port in order to just barely support the tip of that side seal.
If it is even a hair under that at any point you will want to double check that side seal stays on the side housing by mocking up the rotor/e shaft/seal w/ dykem fluid on the side housing and checking it out.
Also, if it is ANY less material between the coolant seal and port edge than stock you will want to have an understanding of how to avoid the other side seal (horizontal as rotor closes port) breaking/wearing by coming back onto the plate wrong.
The terms to search are "scissor" and "bevel". The idea is you want the seal to come back onto the housing surface gently and from the side already on the plate first and by no means let the tip of the seal hit the side of the port.
That side seal must maintain contact with the side housing at the tip or it will break.
It works out to be 11mm from coolant seal groove to edge of port in order to just barely support the tip of that side seal.
If it is even a hair under that at any point you will want to double check that side seal stays on the side housing by mocking up the rotor/e shaft/seal w/ dykem fluid on the side housing and checking it out.
Also, if it is ANY less material between the coolant seal and port edge than stock you will want to have an understanding of how to avoid the other side seal (horizontal as rotor closes port) breaking/wearing by coming back onto the plate wrong.
The terms to search are "scissor" and "bevel". The idea is you want the seal to come back onto the housing surface gently and from the side already on the plate first and by no means let the tip of the seal hit the side of the port.
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so the side seal that is more or less perpendicular to the port is not the one to worry about, cuz that one the tip is not supported by the edge of the port. I believe the one i should be worried about is the vertical side seal, which seemes to be supported. I am under 11mm just a touch, but its at the bottom of the port.
#7
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Yep, you got it; it is the vertical side seal that you have to worry about keeping the tip on the side housing at all times.
Sounds like you will have to physically check out if the port is safe.
So, you can put Dykem layout fluid on the side housing around the port or even sharpie marker if you degrease it well.
Take an old side seal spring and bend the top end up at a 90 deg angle so it *just* projects out from the surface of the rotor a bit.
Put a corner seal in the rotor at the top of this side seal spring as you put the rotor and e-shaft in place on the side housing and rotate the rotor DOWN from the top of the port to the bottom.
Now, remove the rotor and look at the line scribed by the bent tip of the side seal spring in the dried marking fluid.
Hope it has stayed on the side housing the entire time or it is time to port another side housing.
Sounds like you will have to physically check out if the port is safe.
So, you can put Dykem layout fluid on the side housing around the port or even sharpie marker if you degrease it well.
Take an old side seal spring and bend the top end up at a 90 deg angle so it *just* projects out from the surface of the rotor a bit.
Put a corner seal in the rotor at the top of this side seal spring as you put the rotor and e-shaft in place on the side housing and rotate the rotor DOWN from the top of the port to the bottom.
Now, remove the rotor and look at the line scribed by the bent tip of the side seal spring in the dried marking fluid.
Hope it has stayed on the side housing the entire time or it is time to port another side housing.
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