apneablue

I really don't know much about methanol. For now just planning to run water until I get schooled on the methanol.

fastcarfreak

sweet. I should have mine installed withing the next week or 2 and then have it dynoed soon after that. I cant wait. I plan to run a small mixture of methanol in with my water during the colder months so the water doesnt freeze.

Could the temperature you are receiving from the sensor be from the water droplets landing on the sensor and in turn the sensor taking the reading from the water as apposed to the air?

Adam

apneablue

I thought about that too. I don't know really. Maybe CoolingMist (David) can chime in.

apneablue

Well guys, I managed to dyno with and without the water injection....This dyno was done at the same 16PSI with and without water injection.

The first run was without and I made 409RWHP and then I ran 404rwhp with the water injection....So in terms of RWHP the water injection actually hurt me but what it did was to bring down my AFRs about 0.2 - 0.3 less than the run that I did without it.

Here's the dyno....I'm still completely happy with my purchase of the WI...If it means sacrificing 5 rwhp to have the piece of mind that you are warding off detonation, then I will take it!

razorback

did you get retuned? wasnt your old tune at 380hp?

nice numbers btw.

apneablue

No...this is the same tune....but the HKS twin power leaned me out to where I want to be...Next thing is to get retuned (not with the water injection) to 18psi...Then I will call it good.

razorback

if you still plan on coming over to fayetteville some weekend then those guys have another 20 hp to deal with.

when were you getting it retuned?

coolingmist

Hi we ship to every country. We have even shipped a few kits in South Africa. We are actually in the process of setting up a dealer in South Africa right now. Shipping is $50 international.

thanks.

coolingmist

I would not worry about that. For example those of you that install this will notice when the intake temps drop, it takes a good 5-6 minutes for it to start rising again. It really drops the intake temps to ambient. As quoted earlier "its freaking insane".

I think I told everyone of the story where I was in Northern Cali driving to LA. Up I-5 near the IKEA Distr. center there is a 10 mabye 15 mile hill that never ends. On a 95 degree day my water temps were rising to 230+. The first stage of my dual stage system was always on because its set to come on a 4 psi. My intake temps prior to the water injection were 147, but after were 97!! Now if I could get my water temps down...HMMMM.

coolingmist

its funny, every car is different. The dodge SRT's are gaining 20+ HP to the wheels with it on vs off. Mini Cooper S tend to gain 1 HP if any. I think the newer cars have a better computer that advances the timing based on the colder intake temps. Your heat soak will be completely eliminated now, so consider your car after it gets heatsoaked and you lose alot of power..with the water injection you will gain that back. Thats one of the best features.

7racer

Just adding some pics for a dual stage install.

Still not completely done. Waiting for the plumbed Greddy elbow for the 1st injector and water tank from Anthony (DFW RX-7 Cook).

However, after all my newbie questions to David, I tested the system by applying pressure to the boost switches and whoila! Hear the pump turn on. The arming light turns on, and water flows out of the tube! SWEET!

Anyways here are some pics of my install.

The Tank will be in the trunk. The water line runs through an opening on the passenger side through the firewall and into the engine bay. It then runs to the first solenoid that I have mounted here.



It "T"s to the second solenoid here that will goto the nozzle that is in the ASP medium intercooler.



I have the boost switches mounted here...with easy access to adjust the boost settings.



That position is also nice as I ran all my wiring through the opening underneath the cruise through the opening that is already made in our RX7's through the firewall and into the drivers side cabin. I got confused about how to wire the power (hence the endless emails to David). Regardless, what I ended up doing was splicing into the turbotimer harness that I have. All of the wires are already labeled, and if I messed it up...I could easily buy another harness. All, went well with the wiring and here you can see the mount for the arm/disarm switch and LED. Out of focus deep in the foot well you can just make up the relay harness that I have mounted back there.

apneablue

I would say the best feature so far for me is that I lowered my AFR. If you think about it I wend down about 0.3 and only lost 5hp...That's worth the piece of mind for me...I can't see myself loosing a race over 5hp.

ronbros3

I have had a water-alky kit on for 2 yrs. dont use it much, becaused car slows down, and on dyno looses about 20 HP talked tp vendor , its in the tuneup, lean it out till it goes into detonation then add water, try that one on your rotary? scares me, already on my third engine. RON

7racer

Ron,

I see that you run a performance shop. Can you be more specific about your water injection and what engine you ran it on? Did you run a 50/50 water/methanol mix?

coolingmist

Very nice install. I dont know how the solenoid is going to work in that position though. When we install it we leave it upright against the firewall and zip tie to the metal pipes on the firewall. We have pics online in our pictures menu of that set up. Looks great though.

7racer

Thanks David.

Here are some pics of the tubing hooked up to the solenoids. I double check them today. Put air pressure to the boost sensor by using a bicycle pump. The first one came on like a champ with no water coming out of the second stage....added more pressure and the second stage started to flow. So it looks like it working great!

Are you worried that they will not work over time in that position? Do solenoids have to be a certain orientation?

coolingmist

I was just concerned that the hose was going to be restricted. It looks ok in that close up. There are arrows on the solenoid, it has 1 way flow. Thanks!

RE FAN

are all of you guys running high boost,thats what the purpose of wi?
because i have a FC which i will be soon be upgrading to a TO4B and i plan to run 15psi on the stock motor with a good tuner and just saving up for either a engine rebuild but i thought water injection would be a much better choice,but i havent seen it in the flesh only online.Just want to know everyone's opinion since this is the motherforum for RX-7s

cheers

silver93

ZeroBanger's write up is very good. I followed his ( which came from a turbo eclipse site, i think) - anyway, all in all, it cost about $170. I had mine set up to inject at 7psi and above. I used windshield washer fluid instead of pure water. methenol is just needed for an average car. not worth the money and hassle with the hazmat -

RE FAN

yeah spoke to the guy at coolingmist via email,I ll most likely be getting the deluxe kit which is 239 or 249 USD?

silver93 are you or anyone else here using upgraded ignition system on the leading coils? as i heard with WI systems the plugs tend to get fouled easier.

silver93

RE FAN -
No, I don't plan on upgrading the system. In the roughly 10,000 miles I've put on the engine with WI, I have not experienced any problems with the plugs fouling.

The amount of time my car is injecting is very small relative to the time the engine is running. I In an hour of average driving, I'm lucky if I spend more than 60 seconds in boost above 7psi. Really, any problem with plugs fouling is a result of running rich. I'm running around 11.2-11.5 AFRs and 13 psi. I tuned the car for that without the WI. All I use WI for is insurance - mainly incase there is a boost spike or the profec B fails.

ronbros3

7 Racer ,I use the SMC water/alky system on a 3rd gen FD engine, in a FC car. I make about 408 whp at 17 lbs. thats without W/A, but activated on dyno loses 18-20 HP, I also have a water to air intercooler system that works well so my air temps are always low 80 to 110, has a tell tale light when armed, and another light when activated all from the cockpit, also a low resivoir light. its a good system but I have to take it to the next level, AKA add timing and lean it out, like i said this is my 3rd engine so im little reluctant ! thanks RON OH! I use water and ethonal not methonal 75% water 25% ethonal

ronbros3

ON the plug issue water would clean them and the chambers too, keep carbon buildup down to nothin. RON

ronbros3

also SMC system has a primer button to test activation and light on from pressure switch.RON

kabooski

hmm ok so with it on you lower you A/F's

Then well
it makes sence to make 'more' power...... when you use the Kit
either run more timing when it turns on
or lean it out when it activates
since you should be able to run a bit more timming advance
and still be safe when its on
maybe thats been covered

(came upon this thread using the "search"..hehe)