Coolant problem solved
#1
*** Bless Texas!
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Coolant problem solved
Well I couldn't find my old thread to add onto it so I started another one.
As you may know I had a problem of coolant being spit up out of the overflow resevior tank after I took the car for a drive and stopped it. I would have to add about a quart of coolant/water everytime I drove her. Well I KNEW it wasn't my seals going. It just couldn't be, I never had to add coolant ever to my car until this happened and what not.
Called Ray up at Malloy Mazda and put an order for every coolant hose I needed and a new coolant resevior tank along with new filler neck cap and a new thermostat. Called Jason up and ordered a aluminum AST(yes I know, a long time coming). Put the parts in over the weekend.
When I took my coolant overflow tank out it was filthy and there was a layer of sediment on the bottom of it, looked like dirt. Anyways after a good flush cause the rad only had about 2k miles on it I didn't want to change it out yet. Put everything back together. Burped it a few times. Drove it around and burped it a few more times over the course of a couple of days. It's all good now and holding coolant down. No spitting up what so ever.
I wanted to change the cooling system before I would except defeat of a blown coolant seal. I'am glad I did because I just put in a new clutch and alum flywheel and now that it's broken in I can enjoy it now.
Anyways to all the people that said I had a blown seal.... I suggest unless it's completly obvious that a seal is blown, change all your hoses and such and make sure it is NOT your coolant system before you drop the big bucks on a new motor. That's my story.
As you may know I had a problem of coolant being spit up out of the overflow resevior tank after I took the car for a drive and stopped it. I would have to add about a quart of coolant/water everytime I drove her. Well I KNEW it wasn't my seals going. It just couldn't be, I never had to add coolant ever to my car until this happened and what not.
Called Ray up at Malloy Mazda and put an order for every coolant hose I needed and a new coolant resevior tank along with new filler neck cap and a new thermostat. Called Jason up and ordered a aluminum AST(yes I know, a long time coming). Put the parts in over the weekend.
When I took my coolant overflow tank out it was filthy and there was a layer of sediment on the bottom of it, looked like dirt. Anyways after a good flush cause the rad only had about 2k miles on it I didn't want to change it out yet. Put everything back together. Burped it a few times. Drove it around and burped it a few more times over the course of a couple of days. It's all good now and holding coolant down. No spitting up what so ever.
I wanted to change the cooling system before I would except defeat of a blown coolant seal. I'am glad I did because I just put in a new clutch and alum flywheel and now that it's broken in I can enjoy it now.
Anyways to all the people that said I had a blown seal.... I suggest unless it's completly obvious that a seal is blown, change all your hoses and such and make sure it is NOT your coolant system before you drop the big bucks on a new motor. That's my story.
#2
i'm having the same problem now, but how do the changes you made fix the problem?
it's something i'm considering looking into for sure, but i'm wondering:
how did new hoses and such help?
or was it the new AST?
it's something i'm considering looking into for sure, but i'm wondering:
how did new hoses and such help?
or was it the new AST?
#3
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If you have a search around, it's quite common for coolant system leaks (often non-o-ring-related) to allow air into the system when the car cools, yet not produce noticeable coolant leakage.
I learned this the hard way as I was leaving for SevenStock7. I stayed home testing things out, ended up replacing the filler-neck cap. I was hearing air in the heater core for a week before. I haven't heard it since replacing the cap Saturday. Oh well, I guess I got off lucky with a $10 fix.
I learned this the hard way as I was leaving for SevenStock7. I stayed home testing things out, ended up replacing the filler-neck cap. I was hearing air in the heater core for a week before. I haven't heard it since replacing the cap Saturday. Oh well, I guess I got off lucky with a $10 fix.
#4
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Originally Posted by Street King
When I took my coolant overflow tank out it was filthy and there was a layer of sediment on the bottom of it, looked like dirt.
#5
I speak Japanglish
dirty coolent? maybe your o-ring is shot and theres oil leaking into the coolent system. I fixed by problem by gettin a new motor...^.^
Last edited by RE Suzuki; 09-15-04 at 04:52 AM.
#6
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I had same thing happening to me because once my contact on the coolant level sensor got bad I removed the filler neck cap and then coolant started coming out of overflow tank. Then I never really filled it up correctly until I found out that when filling in the coolant, I also need to open the AST cap and fill coolant (at filler neck) until it overflows at AST, then close AST and fill at filler neck up to top.
Never had a problem since
Never had a problem since
#7
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im having the same problem, but one piece of info id like to get an opinion on is that when i was getting my radiator flushed, thinking maybe a good flush is what my car needed, they would put coolant in the thermostat while the engine was running. It would not take it easily - it would repeatedly be pushed out by pressuarized air. The service guy even said that its unusual to have so uch pressure in the coolant system. I was also told it was my water seal in the engine, but could new hoses n such solve my problem which is basically js like urs? I also noticed sediment in my resivior tank and also hear boiling coolant rushing to resivior tank after i turn the engine off, or after a 5-10 mile drive even keeping the rpm below 5000. Let me know if your solution could work for me also. thnx
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#8
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Originally Posted by RE Suzuki
dirty coolent? maybe your o-ring is shot and theres oil leaking into the coolent system. I fixed by problem by gettin a new motor...^.^
#11
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Streetking:
Please keep us posted on whether this fix is still working for you. I did the same thing you did and everything seemed to be working fine and all until the reservoir started filling up again…then the coolant spill syndrome started all over again.
Thanks dude.
Please keep us posted on whether this fix is still working for you. I did the same thing you did and everything seemed to be working fine and all until the reservoir started filling up again…then the coolant spill syndrome started all over again.
Thanks dude.
#12
i had a similar problem with my system. I had all te symptoms. Crazy layer of sediment in my overflow resovior, start ups with extreme bogging, cooalnt being spit through the overflow tube followed by 5 minutes of air hissing and nurmerous times of filling the system back up with water/coolant. So I did the block-weld fix. And after a day of doing the procedure, and a night of letting the block weld sit, it worked. I had no bogging at start up anymore and no coolant/sir spitting after the engine goes off. Yet a week after this fix i was driving to take my gf out for lunch, and my engine temp goes crazy high.(keep in mind this is with the stock temp guage... and i still had no bogging at start up) So I decide to go home. So as I was getting onto the on-ramp for the freeway i heard a loud pop.....(yes my heart began to beat like a hamsters.) The pop was then followed by a small puff of smoke going out of the side of my hood. So I pull over and the first thing I see is a ripped belt. (uhm the one next to the air pump and whatver else its turning). And right next to that i see a blown upper radiator hose. It was just straight popped off its other half. i had collant all over the place from the direction the hose fired. Anyone got an ideas how this happened? What pressurized the system so much to to that?
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