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Coolant Loss

Old May 26, 2005 | 06:10 PM
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Coolant Loss

Hi guys,

ive been topping up alot of coolant lately, also when i step on the throttle, the water meter goes up as well, so it noramlly stays at around 4, but when i step on the throttle it goes to nearly 8. Also the car is very hard to start in the mornings and the coolant buzzer styas on for abt 2 mins, am i due for a rebuild??

Im getting my radiator hoses replaced and gonna get a pressure test, can any1 suggest anything else i can do?? Thanks
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Old May 26, 2005 | 06:19 PM
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sure sounds like popped orings eh
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Old May 26, 2005 | 06:46 PM
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Look for a leak, do a bubble test, and smell your exhaust.

-Charlie
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Old May 26, 2005 | 07:05 PM
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I'd bet it's a coolant seal. I agree with charliegt, do the bubble test. Also look at your overflow reservoir - it's probably full.
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Old May 27, 2005 | 01:29 AM
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Talking

Exactly the same thing just recently happened to me.

We found a crack in the front engine plate. Combustion gases were going into the coolant system, thus making it overflow all the time. But only on full throttle. As it's a track car, that was all the time.

Sorry, time to rebuild by the sounds of it.

Good time to look for more power
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Old May 27, 2005 | 03:27 AM
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I've been having some similar problems with my car lately. I finally replaced my motor (got 102K miles out of the original engine) with a Mazda reman, and for the first couple of days, I had to keep adding coolant/water to my reservoir because my add coolant light and buzzer kept coming on whenever I started my car. I took it to the guys that installed the motor and they told me to check the reservoir every morning and add water accordingly and the problem should go away.

I think there might be a problem with my cooling system because I'm pretty sure that my old engine gave up due to a damaged coolant seal.

Is my reman already gone?

Sorry if I'm mooching off your thread Yel.
Jason
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Old May 27, 2005 | 04:02 AM
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From: Malaysia
^^ Do what charliegt said. Have you done the champagne test? If not do that. Also it is normal for the add coolant buzzer to come on after changing in new water. I like to remove the TB coolant line and hook it up into an empty bottle and wait till the coolant flow is consistant before plugging it back on. This gets rid of the air bubbles in the system.
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Old May 28, 2005 | 07:02 PM
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From: sydney
Bad news, have done a pressure test, seems like theres no leaks,

probably a broken coolant seal, i think its time for rebuild

just a quick question, should i continue to drive it around??? or should i just leave the car there until i gte a rebuild??

as for rebuilding, wat are your thoughts on genuine mazda seals??

while the engine is out for rebuilding, should i do anything else since the engine outs?? like any eazy mods to get more power or reliabilty

thanks
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Old May 28, 2005 | 07:14 PM
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From: Sterling, VA
You can usually drive it for a long time after a coolant seal develops a leak, but it's going to foul the plugs every time you stop the engine, as residual cooling system pressure forces coolant into the combustion chamber. This is why it's hard to start.
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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by YeL_Rx7
Bad news, have done a pressure test, seems like theres no leaks,

probably a broken coolant seal, i think its time for rebuild

just a quick question, should i continue to drive it around??? or should i just leave the car there until i gte a rebuild??

as for rebuilding, wat are your thoughts on genuine mazda seals??

while the engine is out for rebuilding, should i do anything else since the engine outs?? like any eazy mods to get more power or reliabilty

thanks
When you did the compression test, did it lose pressure? If not, then I don't think that it is a bad coolant seal. Don't rule out the simple fixes. I was having a TON of trouble with my coolant system over the past year. First, it was a slit in a hose, then it was a bad hose clamp, then it was leaking around the coolant level sensor... then it was doing exactly what you're talking about plus having trouble starting when hot. Most people were quick to say that it was a bad coolant seal, but the actual problem was a bad cap on the filler neck (themostat housing) and a bad FPR control solenoid. Compound problems can lead to hard diagnostics. Replace your caps and see if that helps.

Good luck,
-Charlie
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Old Jun 6, 2005 | 03:31 AM
  #11  
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From: Edmonton Canada
theres a temp sensor just above the air pump that the stock ecu uses to check the engine temp on the car when starting. its on a coolent box with a radiator cap check that sensor mine broke off and i was have the same problem.

Also check to see if you need new rad caps mine went and easy way to check is to see if you coolent hoses are colapsed.
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