KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

As I'm assembling my motor post rebuild and getting ready to go single turbo I have ran into a small problem with the awesomeness that is the stock coolant hose routing system. After diligent searching both the forum and the FSM I have come to this point.

I believe I am correct with the flow direction of the coolant as well, however I can't seem to discern where #4 goes. Any help? Also if the directions of the coolant is incorrect feel free to correct them. The obvious ones missing are the block to the throttle body and the direction for the two main lines which are clearly labeled here.

for single turbo 1, 2, 3, and sometimes 4 can be blocked off correct? Provided your turbo is oil only.

rx7rcer09

i will take a look at mine tomorrow morning and post back, im on a single turbo set up i believe that the number (4) runs to the body for the heater core. the fitting should be running on the passenger side frame rail to the fitting you have marked, its a hose same material as the coolant hoses just in smaller diameter. but as i said i will take a look in the morning and post back.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Correct, #4 is for the heater core and goes to a hardline. It's larger in diameter than the smaller turbo coolant hoses. It's a molded line that makes a tight bend, looks a bit like an 'L.' At IRP all of those heater hoses get replaced on every build if they're original or look beat up (which is usually the case).

FYI, to clean up your engine bay and eliminate failure points you can eliminate both the coolant through the TB (easiest is to loop a line forward from the rear iron to #1 pictured) and the AST. You probably already know that though

Gringo Grande

iTrader: (97)

This is what I like about Goodfella's shop mindset. No shortcuts, no low budget crap. Do it right.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Kyle, deleting the T-body coolant llne and looping it to the rear iron is what I did. It still gives you a good accessible place for an aftermarket coolant temp sensor. And of course, you could also delete the AST. It was sort of forced on me with my choice of SMIC, but no issues since.

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

I'm probably deleting the AST for the time being, but when I get some extra cash in a few weeks I would like to throw one back in.
My heater hose definitely look beat up, I also need to wrap them to isolate them from the heat of the single turbo going in.
The TB lines will be looped and rubber caps will be placed over the turbo ones. That's what Jason (rx7store) recommended I do anyways.

Thanks guys.

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

hey rich, am I missing anything?

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

^Call up Ray at malloy and change all the hoses you will be using. He will know what you need.


John

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

MMS prices>ray's prices

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

MMS prices>ray's prices

I think you have that backwards if you are trying to justify buying from MMS


John

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

You can use Mazdatrix's site to double-check that you have them all. Looks like you have it covered though.

Dale

muibubbles

iTrader: (36)

#4 line is to heater hose and if u want to save money u dont need to but oem, i juse bought some heat hose and a 90" barb fitting and it works perfect, i heat wraped them and used a rubber c-clip to mount it on the frame rail.

This deletes the hardline that attaches to the shock tower which gives u more play where u want to mount it. this allows me to run my heat hose a little further away from my manifold/turbo

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

well the car isn't running, so currently its costing me nothing to buy from MMS, that'll change once I can finally drive the damn thing. At which point, its only autox...

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

Just to make sure I'm getting this...in the top pic in the original post, #3 is the coolant "feed" port for the turbo and #2 is the coolant "drain" line from the turbo, correct? I've been looking at a new turbo setup and the manual said to run the feed line to the bottom of the CHRA and the drain line from the top if possible. So if this is true, turns out I've unknowingly had it right this whole time lol.

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

+1 for wraping the heater core hose in heat protectant wrap. That line will run really close to your turbo and you want to do all you can to keep it from getting torn up.

Listen to Goodfella, he is the man...

KKMpunkrock2011

iTrader: (5)

you got it.

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

Cool, thanks!

RiceFx306

iTrader: (7)

This is the line you guys are talking about right? I just got the motor in and unfortunately it's touching. Is this a common thing/what is the workaround for this? A soft line?

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

Bend it to make it fit. I would not want a soft line near my turbo

RiceFx306

iTrader: (7)

Cool I just did that. It's still pretty tight, but I'll figure it out.

What's the proper way to block off 2 and 3? Just loop a line between them?

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

I just ran a soft line with heat shielding for that heater core line, it's held up pretty well over the past several years. I might try to just bend the stock line though. I like using stock parts as much as possible anyway.

RiceFx306

iTrader: (7)

Thanks, I'll figure out some heat shielding solution.



As for 2 and 3 I'm going to try these things. Does anyone happen to know the size required? 6.5 or 8mm maybe?. Samco Sport Silicone Blanking Caps at Racebikebitz

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

The proper way to block those off is to drill them out and weld up the holes. If you cant weld then drill and tap for NPT plug. Don't use those caps you are asking for trouble.

Number 4 comes from the heater core and connects to that line you bent a few days ago if that has not been answered yet.