wstrohm

Opened CPU #2 and looked at the PC card under a magnifying glass. Nothing was visibly wrong, so I assumed the electronics was damaged somehow and ordered a new one from Ray Crowe at Malloy. Also removed the radiator today... clearly a leak at the top plastic cap; fans had coolant in the top recesses of their mounting bracket. Ordered a new OEM radiator today (Sunday) via e-mail, so hopefully Ray will read the message on Monday morning and maybe I'll get the parts next Friday or Saturday.

The factory manual was only partially helpful in removing the radiator. It neglected to mention a few nuts/bolts that have to be removed, and one nut is hidden under the A/C reservoir on the driver's side... that nut is really hard to get to, but the rad won't come out with it in place. I'm a little worried about getting that nut back on, but now I'm ahead of myself. Anyway, now I'm in "wait" mode for the new parts.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

wow, you really are keeping this thing oem stock. How much is an oem radiator? I love Ray and support him 100% but have you considered a Fluidyne rad? They're drop in an pretty much bulletproof.

wstrohm

Ray's price is $464.21; if I went non-stock, which wife doesn't want, I would probably go with a Koyo, based on the threads I have read here. I do like the OEM rad for its lightness and thinness, which is necessary for a reasonably easy installation. It was tough enough getting the old one out; don't want any added thickness causing trouble.

NCMontegott

iTrader: (5)

Wstrohm

That seems really high for a stock replacement rad. you should just go with an aftermarket and have the security of knowing that it will cool the engine better.

twinsinside

iTrader: (34)

Have you checked your AST for cracks/leaks? The plastic OEM one, like the plastic radiator end tanks, just can't take the heat. It's not a question of if they fail, but when. I've had 2 OEM radiators fail on me (original and used spare), as well as one AST, dumping coolant everywhere. This was all during street conditions driving at normal speeds. If your AST is a green color, its time to put a "shes gonna blow" sticker on it.

After owning an RX7 for a while, you develop a shark-like super power and smell burning coolant at up to 5 miles.

Doing some research on the forums with regards to radiators I went with mahjiks suggestion of radiator world. They have an all aluminum radiator for like $264 I think that is almost exactly the same size as the OEM one, and you dont have to worry about the plastic end tanks.

I respect the fact that you want to stay with stock parts, but many of them are more expensive and will fail on you at some point. The reliability mods list has proven itself pretty much a requirement to keep these cars on the road for any length of time.

Enjoy the struggle

Socamoto

If your sticking with oem, consider a series 8 radiator. They are thicker and easy to get hold of a very low mileage one from Australia for cheap.

Hope you get the leak sorted

Jon

DaveW

Very similar to my thinking when I went to a new OE rad to replace the still-perfect but 15-year-old original. Here's a link to that thread.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=radiatorworld

Dave

wstrohm

I agree; Mazda parts prices are very high, and constantly increasing. However, the local price is $553 +tax ($615 total), and wife wants to stay OEM.

Yes, and it's not leaking. Besides, it's a brand new OEM. I understand your comments, but the first one lasted 98K miles, and this one is a "B" revision, so hopefully it will provide good service too.

The A/C condenser on our car is "bowed" toward the radiator core. Don't know if that is normal or not, but its center nearly touches the OEM core. Can't take a chance on a thicker radiator, but thanks for your response.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

FYI - neither of the condensers on my FD Touring or R1 were bowed in either direction.

wstrohm

I would think that is normal. Don't know why ours is different. There is no indication of a hit or local distortion, just a gentle curve all the way across the condenser. Have no idea what could cause that after installation.

wstrohm

Received the new radiator and CPU #2 yesterday (Thursday) and installed both. Apparently there are no leaks anywhere, but that's what I thought after the hose replacement. Hopefully this time is the charm.

The new CPU #2 fixed the flashing seat belt light and the flashing security light. I have no idea why the old one failed. I wonder if there is some way to get the old one back into a Mazda parts pipeline, i.e. returning it to the original manufacturer for a rebuild... not for me, but just to avoid trashing an electronic item that is probably no longer being produced. Not willing to pay anything for it, though.

I thought it interesting that the old radiator (left pic below) had a brown top plastic tank, compared to the new one (on the right) which is black. The Miata radiators turn color over time, too. First black, then greenish-black, then when really old, they are brown. I have no idea how the color change relates to failures, but I guess all the "Cal-Sonic" radiators did that.

Zoolander

iTrader: (8)

Adding to this not-so-old thread as it seems to be along the same subject matter.

Does anyone have advice on the best way to R&R the long throttle body coolant hose? I've replaced a few others so far and sliding them on is a royal PITA...even when they are easily reachable. That long TB hose's far end is smack in the back middle of the engine bay and leverage and reach and working room will be a problem. Vacuum hoses are in the way and the clamp is even at an obscene angle. Removing will be one ordeal (I usually cut with a blade to weaken the grip) but sliding in a new one seems next to impossible.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

wstrohm

Do you have the UIM off? Below is a pic showing that hose fairly clearly; I had moved it up out of the way temporarily. IIRC I replaced it in this configuration.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Use a little WD-40 or PB Blaster on the hoses. It will also help getting them off, just spray at the very end of the hose and it will wick back in.

Dave

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/how-replace-throttle-body-coolant-hose-where-meets-block-725979/
Good luck. It was fun...

Zoolander

iTrader: (8)

Excellent. I love this site!

Wstrohm - I did remove the UIM. There's also sludge and dirt everywhere! How'd you get that oil filler neck area so clean! The guys at Lube-It must not be doing a good job of confining that oil!

Do the pliers need a bend in it? Now I have to decide whether to Sears it at $80 for a set of two pliers that I'll probably never use again....or the $10 internet special but pushing my finish date back another week. It's raining anyways... but I can't take the lack of FD any longer!

Gracer - thanks for the lead. Did you use your hand to install the new one or the pliers (or a combo)? There's a fuel line down there right? I hope PB Blaster makes that new one slide in like butter. Thanks.....

Zoolander

iTrader: (8)

Perfect set: Astro Pneumatic NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS SET 4PC 16 INCH LONG / straight, 45, offset, and hose cable.

Available at Sears for $35....but maybe only online.

wstrohm

I made this note a couple of years back when I replaced all my vacuum hoses:
"Craftsman long-handled bent-nose pliers were needed to remove/replace a few of the hoses in barely-accessible places."

Below is a pic of the Sears Craftsman pliers I bought; P/N 45596. 45° bend at end, overall length measures 11.5" tip to tip.