HDP

iTrader: (2)

I've been reading all the old topics on it and listening to people tell me it's the way to go, but I'm not sure about it nor where I should begin. I bought a brand new set of 99 RZ twins and a PFC & commander, so that's my starting point. Can anyone give me a little advice on this? Thanks in advance.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

lol, that's like asking the forum whether to vote Democrat or Republican.

Why are you considering it? Is there a problem with your sequential setup?

tt2323

a lot of it is what kind of driving do you do? Do you plan running a full exhaust? You could also look into simplified sequential, but remember your loosing all emissions with both. I loved the simplicity of it. If you go non-seq you have to port your wastegate flapper door and while everthing is out you should also weld the things that need welding.

HDP

iTrader: (2)

I just don't want any future headaches with the system. Honestly, I don't think it has ever worked correctly since I bought the car Nov '02. Right now I'm rolling on 2 low compression chambers on the front rotor, so I want to decide when I get a new engine.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

IMO, if you are getting an engine rebuild, now would be the perfect time to redo the sequential setup right (since it will be easier working on that stuff while the engine is outside of the car). If it doesn't work after that, you don't need to remove the engine to go non-seq.

Fatman0203

Mahjik if he runs non-seq with a full exhaust and a ported motor he would be making very nice power no? Porting will allow even quicker spooling.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Unless he does the FULL conversion, the power is exactly the same as sequential (using the poor-mans non-seq conversion that is)... the power curve is just different.

The FULL conversioin removes the doors so "theoretically" it should increase airflow some. A lot? No, but every little bit can help if you are trying to build a car for all out power.

HDP

iTrader: (2)

If I did do it, it would be the full version.

obviousboy

Thats the same reason i went full non seq.....was getting a new engine and didnt want the head aches.....

Let me put it this way...after i got everything put back in my car..it boosted perfectly the first time out

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

HDP, this is a question you have to answer for yourself. Many people like non-seq, many people (including me) hate it. I'd rather fight every single seq problem that could arise rather than go non-seq, but that's just me.

You have to decide for yourself.

Fatman0203

Just wondering why dont you like it Mahjik?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

You give up low end power for no real advantage. If your sequential system is working properly, there is very little to notice during the transition.

If there was a real advantage to it, then I would be all for it. But IMO it doesn't make sense on the stock twins.

Fatman0203

How about IF you had a ported motor and were going to do the FULL conversion? Still no? Like example a full 3inch exhaust from downpipe to catback?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

You aren't going to make any more real power with the exact same set of turbos. Seq or non-seq, the turbos are still flowing the same CFM either way. Removing the doors on the turbos for the full conversion is suppose to have a little less restriction but it's theory as I've never seen anyone actually test that (both non-seq mods on the same car).

Fatman0203

Quick one, whats the site again to get silicone at?

PVerdieck

Bad idea in general. IF you want no boost problems, then just remove the turbos.

Yeah, that may sound stupid, but you are changing the power curve in an unnecessary manner, for nothing but your own laziness. You are trading the exilarating stock power band for some bland toast.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Which company? There are several that sell vacuum tubing. I prefer Baker Precision: www.bakerprecision.com

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

I did the full non-seq. convertion. I honestly think is better. Yes you loose the some low end but you gain in the mid range since there is no transition point. Top end stays the same. To me I feel the car is more drivable, feels more realistic. I don't really know how to explain it but I like it. I did a comparison and gas milage is better to. the thing I like the best is that the car is a bit louder (something that my car was missing). The main reason I did it is because I want to go single and I wanted to see what it wil fell like.

seandizzie

iTrader: (1)

If you want to know what the difference will be when you go non-seq., Floor it from 3000rpms to redline or so and then slow down but don't let your revs fall below 3000rpms. If you do this you will still be on both turbos(like nonseq). Then floor it to the same point and let off. take a second and compare the two. If you have already done this sorry for wasting your time, but I image the pull you do in seq. will feel better. I feel there is no reason to do away with the stock turbo setup unless your going to get a single. Hope this help...peace

HDP

iTrader: (2)

What about doing the simplification mod on the rats nest? That would eliminate some of the v.h. and solenoids and would make things a little easier to trouble shoot.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Basically all that does is remove the parts that control emissions. A good thing to do but it doesn't really simplify much. The reason is that all the parts that control the sequential system are really still there. All you do is remove the emissions parts from being seen (which you should do if you aren't running emission equipment anyway).

When troubleshooting boost problems, if you ignore the ones for emissions then it's not an issue.

chagar

I asked this question of the shop doing my rebuild and their response was that you did lose the low end so I opted not to do it.
CWTG

SoloKK

I just ported my motor, went non-seq, ported my wastegate, and plopped on a manual boost controller to keep it at 10psi and I love it. It spools very quickly and makes the car much more predictable. My low end is surprisingly good (cuz of porting) and my high end is better than before (in terms of consistent boost).

It just depends on the person, and what he/she wants.

RotorJoe

I like it, but then I have BNR stage two's, ported waste gate and ported motor. Boost comes on strong and holds strong from about 4000 to red line. Yes low end boost is not around. I can usally build about 5 psi from 2-3 grand though. But with the stage two's I am able to hit boost ranges around 1bar to 1.2bar. I think 1.2 may be a touch out of the efficiency range. I have also notice that I cannot keep my boost at 7psi (all the way to red line) like others due to the ported waste gate. I have boost creep/jump (which I have tuned for) around 5500 RPM and it goes from about 7psi to 10psi. Works for me, kind of acts lie high end power band.
Just my two cents.

Tom93R1

iTrader: (2)

I am with Mahjiik, My FD is waaaaay more enjoyable to drive around than my Turbo II ever was because of the sequential turbo system. The single turbo FC had absolutely nothing for power below 2k. Not that I drive alot that low but the occasion does arise every so often. I would only go non-seq if I had all kinds of problems with the seq system and never was able to figure it out.