lovemyseven

iTrader: (2)

My R1 FD's engine has been rebuilt in the past by Pettit with a street port and 3mm seals, balanced and blueprinted turbos,etc. That was before I owned it and two owners ago. I have been tracking the car this year and have noticed lately that it has blowing quite a bit of white smoke at start up which usually goes away after it warms up. Sometimes after a drive there is a small amount of coolant on the floor most likely coming from the overflow tank. The car also has a couple of minor oil leaks near the turbos which has made a bit of a mess around the subframe and turbo assembly. I am considering pulling the engine, rebuilding and cleaning it up over the next few months so that I am confident there are no issues. The following are some things I am considering while it's out to make it easier to work on and more reliable. Then again, the car has been running fine, maybe I just keep running it until I notice more of a problem.

Secondary Injector Upgrade
PFC Install
Single Turbo Kit - for road course duty
removing/ relocating solenoids
HKS Twin Power Install
Upgraded Oil Coolers
New Temp Gauge

Please add a comment on anything I may be overlooking.

Thank You in Advance - I appreciate the feedback

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Definitely any upgrades and maintenance done on the stock style fuel system: FPD or FPD elimination, adjustable FPR, ultrasonic cleaning / rebuild of your primaries, maybe replace the fuel hoses.

Replace all coolant hoses in the engine bay, without a doubt. Delete AWS, double throttle, and other stuff that won't matter to you. Install an FC thermoswitch.

I assume the car already has an upgraded all-aluminum radiator, aluminum AST or AST elimnation, and big stock mount or v mount intercooler. If not you'll want to do that. Maybe install a water pump underdrive pulley and add one of those idler pulley kits to improve belt contact. Maybe install a Re-Medy water pump (it has a machined impeller instead of the stock stamped design).

The oil coolers and temp gauge are important.

This would certainly be a major track monster, but to really go big you'll want to do an AI system with water or water/methanol injection where you can support more power on pump gas with lower knock and lower engine temps.

Hopefully I've tossed out enough buzzwords to let you find, research and study what's out there.

Dave

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

If you are pulling the engine you should consider an Oil Pan Brace http://banzai-racing.com/store/FD_oil_pan_brace.html

Also inspect the motor mounts as they are very prone to breaking. Polyurethane are a great upgrade, especially with a single turbo power http://banzai-racing.com/store/FD_po...or_mounts.html

Another part you should think about is a diff brace for the rear end http://banzai-racing.com/store/FD_di...ial_brace.html

lovemyseven

iTrader: (2)

I've got a new stock mount ic, ast, exhaust etc. I like the feedback, would like to eliminate anything I don't need and AI is definetly a consideration. I was considering the GT35r turbo kit. Would this setup be suited for road course use? Besides injectors, and a fuel rail, what about fuel lines? I've seen a little about upgraded fuel lines, but don't know much about them. Also, what about fuel pump? go with a standard bosch upgrade or is there something better?

Vacuum hoses are another thing, but I assume switching to single will allow me to do without several solenoids as well as lots of the vacuum lines correct?

thanks

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

You won't have but a couple solenoids in a single conversion, if any.

Dave

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

*Given your track intentions, it might be a good time to consider deleting the OMP and moving to an injection system for 2-cycle or just pre-mixing. At minimum move to stainless OMP lines.
*Remote mounted coil rack ala Garfinkle might be something to look into.

lovemyseven

iTrader: (2)

Please explain the OMP deletion. I'm pretty familiar with most mods but have never heard about this.

no_more_rice

Pre-mix with synthetic two-stroke oil is the most robust approach to apex seal lubrication, particualrly for track applications (Pettit uses it). Pettit also sells a special rotary pre-mix lube, as does Idemitsu, but you should be fine with something like Amsoil Dominator, which I use in my MX bike and waverunner as well, it's fantastic stuff (Interceptor is fine for street applications). Mix at 8 oz per tank for street use and up to 16 oz per tank for track.

Four stroke oil was never intended to burn in the combustion chamber, it's a Mazduh band-aid to avoid pre-mixing and /or emissions related issues.

lovemyseven

iTrader: (2)

So back to the OMP question, do you simply remove it and block it off, or install something else?

no_more_rice

I plugged mine, but it's still installed. For a track car I would just remove it.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Some people install a remote reservoir to inject 2 stroke oil rather than use the stock plumbing that injects engine oil.

I personally like the OMP. It is load dependent and it certainly doesn't hurt to have it. Do pre-mix a bit while on track for a little more insurance.

Rebuilding a good working motor is a pretty decent approach as it is cheaper than replacing blown up rotors and housings and such. Just make sure you can see the project through financially so it doesn't become a garage ornament.

no_more_rice

The "load dependent" argument for the OMP doesn't hold any water. Although pre-mix ratios are constant, the engine still receives more oil at wide open throttle. If a metering pump was a superior method of oil injection, two stroke racers would also use it. None of them do. If your metering pump breaks or the line gets pinched, you're done. It's just not worth the risk.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

You are entitled to your opinion.

Historically, the OMP doesn't break very often.

Force13B

iTrader: (19)

But the stock OMP lines do if you keep your OMP look into steel braded lines.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Yep. Sometimes they do. Especially when they are old and brittle - just like coolant hoses. That is why I'm using the braided OMP lines from rx7.com. They have a nice coating over the SS to help eliminate any potential risks of cutting/interfering with other items.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Actually, the "if your metering pump brakes" doesn't hold water because the motor goes into limp. I agree they don't fail often. The vast majority of issues involves the lines. That's why I said at minimum go stainless.
That said, the OP is installing a PFC which is a prerequisite for OMP deletion. He indicated he'd be tracking it frequently and wants simplification under the hood. That's why I suggested it.

lovemyseven

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the input guys. So, by removing the OMP, does that allow the oil to flow more easily? Also, what about solenoids, which do I have to keep if I buy a single kit?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

No.

The purpose of the OMP is to inject oil into the combustion chamber to keep the apex seals and rotors cool and lubricated (remember, there is no crankcase to splash oil around). So by removing the OMP and injector nozzles you need to lubricate the combustion chamber, which is why you must start adding premix oil to the gas.

Mazda used the OMP system because consumers buying new cars wouldn't remember or want to add oil to the gas. Maybe also an EPA issue. For those of us who can deal with that minor inconvenience to gain reliability and simplify a few things, it's a non-issue.

Just remember the stock ECU looks for an OMP and monitors it so you can only delete the OMP with an aftermarket ECU. You can however add premix on any setup.

Solenoids will depend. You won't need the charge control, charge relief, turbo control (x2), wastegate, and precontrol solenoids because they served the stock twins. The double-throttle will probably be eliminated, as will the switching 1 and 2 solenoids (air pump), and EGR solenoid. Fuel pressure regulator solenoid gets replaced with the fuel system upgrade I think.

I think the only one you really need is the purge control solenoid.

David

just startn

iTrader: (33)

I just read this whole thread. i say your best bet is to hold off on the project. You need some read time. search read, search read, search read over and over again. there is so much information on this forum. little things such as deleting the omp you should not have to ask about. im not trying to be a dick by any means just trying to help you out.

lovemyseven

iTrader: (2)

I have rebuilt these engines three time, but have never heard of deleting the omp. Now I see what you're talking about though with the pre-mix. I was thinking it was an upgrade or modification, not the removal of oil system as a whole. Does this mean all of the oiling needs are met by simply pre mixing the fuel? No oil pan? No filter? No oil coolers? Sounds scary actually. Can't believe I have never heard of it. When a friend of mine helped me with my first rebuild, all we did was to modify the oil injectors on the ecc shaft to contnuously spray oil. I also installed a single kit. Etc on my first rx, but all of this was over 8 years ago and I quite frankly can't remeber everything we did.

Thanks

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

I agree with this.

Going single, as well as making a solid track setup takes a bit of work & research. There are many systems that will need modified. The FAQ's and the Archives alone hold a vast amount of information on pretty much every question you've asked.

You must be organized and methodical. Make a list of all parts required. Make a list of all sub-projects that must be completed. Since there is much to do, it will be very hard to keep it all in your head, especially if it's your first rodeo.

GL OP.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

The OMP has nothing to do with the pan or coolers. As you have seen, it mounts to the front cover, pumping oil through lines into the intake stream.

http://banzai-racing.com/store/FD_13...imination.html

Blocking it off, removing the lines & injectors is all that is done. As others have said, you will then use premix oil when you fill up with fuel.

lovemyseven

iTrader: (2)

Gotcha, I premix a little 2 cyclein now, don't really see the major benefit of removing the omp unless it looks worn out or the lines are looking bad. Guess it would be easy to simply premix the fuel, but that would involve storing it at my home becuase I wouldn't want to be guestimating each time I fill up at a station

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

By deleting the OMP you simply render the oil squirters on the rotor housings (which spray onto the apex seal) useless and need to premix in your gas.

Your engine still needs oil for other things, like to lubricate the moving parts and help keep it cool

lovemyseven

iTrader: (2)

That's what I had thought. I now remeber how those lines for the omp were routed, etc. Could be a good source to eliminate oil leaks as well if it's removed