7racer

Mazdacomp is currently running a sale on ther competition parts...10% off!

I figure that I would buy some perishables like the 99 spec front brake pads, etc...

I was going to purchase the some spark plugs but noticed the variety of spark plug and comments next to them....

which one is recommend in a car running 99 turbos at 1bar, streetport and HKS twinpower? I'm alittle confused after doing a search in the 3rd gen section

bleung

Mazdacomp told me the EGV plugs is an old NGK racing plug model (which is why they are cheaper) but they recommended NOT using them with stock turbos. I wish I could remember why.

fd0

iTrader: (8)

For a pretty stock car with little modifications you want to run BUR7QEP and BUR9QEP. P stands for Platinum. If you want to a cheaper plugs but still want NGK's, just get the BUR7QE and BUR9QE....this is from memory. I don't know for sure. If you have access to Mazdacomp, you can access their PDF parts catalog and it will show you more.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

There is a scale to figure out how much colder you need to go but I can't remember it or the link but 1 bar would be 8's/10's (as I am running). My mechanic told me to run all 10's but I don't see the purpose of running just as cold leading when it fires 1/2 as often. I think it was 1 # colder for every 4-6lbs of boost. If some one has the link or can correct me (nicely), please post a response. btw, without a membership you can not purchase from Mazdacomp.

bolo_fd

iTrader: (2)

a little off topic but how do u become a member and is there any other way i can order parts from mazdacomp w/o being a member? thanks guys

7racer

It's super easy...just run two events in scca event and submit the result to mazdacomp. THAT's IT!!!

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

hey bob,

you can run either 9s all around or race plugs (10s, 10.5s, 11s etc) leading and 9s trailing.

You dont want the race plugs in just trailing, they don't do much of the combustion work at all.

Call steve at gotham or chris and ari up and they can help you, both places stock all the plugs i mentioned.

7racer

ahh thanks Rich!

XSTransAm

its actually BUR9EQ and BUR7EQ, but you were close

Snook

iTrader: (12)

did you guys read the description for the b9egv and b10egv?

how can a little bit of carbon buildup cause detonation?

7racer

yea...it goes against some of the older post on the forum. It took me awhile to figure out the racing specs on the chart (that was what was getting me confused)

That is:

R6725-105 is 10.5
R6725-11 is 11
R6725-115 is 11.5

and the T813JN-13 is a surface discharge nickel alloy plug.

bolo_fd

iTrader: (2)

thanks 7racer

superior_force

Denso Racing Iridium IRE01-27....wow these are awesome plugs...TINY electrode (0.4 mm), no doubt would clean up the top end on many of these cars and eliminate the need for that silly "Twin Power" gadget

the std NGK rotary plugs are crap, and non-gappable...don't go cheap on plugs, and don't use a super cold plug just because of paranoia over detonation

http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_ap...1&AAIA=1192485

dis1

Wait a bit for results superior force. Yes, they look nice but until you have a few thousand miles on them I don't think you should start talking about how great these plugs are. You just got them. I did not have good results with the IRE01-27 plugs. (Details on website)

superior_force

aside from carbon build up I dont see why you say the Denso Iridiums did not perform well....the real issue here is electrode wear, the solution to carbon build up is either a hotter plug or a lead foot

dis1

I disagree. The rotary engine is known to foul plugs before electrode wear becomes an issue. However regardless of if you think I am wrong or not, my point is undisputable that you should first use the plugs before you start telling people they are the best.

dis1