hey guys, looking for a little input from anyone that might be electrically knowledgeable...

i am experiencing some conflicting a/f meter readings when under a specific load, namely air conditioning. it would appear that when i am NOT using the a/c the meter reads higher, or a richer reading. and when i AM using the a/c, the reading is slightly leaner. the grounds are good, and the O2 wire is tapped at the ecu. anyone care to elaborate on which reading i should use, or should i not worry, and pretend that there is not an issue to be concerned.

i would hate to be misled by what i thought was a simple electrical glitch. my main concern was hoping that the a/c had nothing to do with the a/f readings and that it really was electrical drain, as i suspect.....

i also notice that when i tap the brake [car is off], as i would before i exited the car, that the dome lights will dim slightly....i figure that it is simply another quirky fd ideosynchrasy....

-louis

 

Do you have trouble starting your car?? And do you have aftermarket stereo system installed (high power amps, subs etc.) ??

 

yes, i have an amp and a sub.

yes, i do have trouble starting my car. i posted it some time ago, and got NO response whatsoever. certain times, sometimes every time i start the car, the ignition just clicks. then i hit it again, and click. some days it takes anyewhere from 1-5 clicks and then the car turns over....new starter, plugs...

 

Do you have your fans switched? And do you leave the switch on when you turn off the car?

 

I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM, IF I TURN MY A/C ON THE GAUGE READS LEANER, IF I TURN MY HEADLIGHTS ON THE GAUGE READS LEANER, AND ALSO IF I TAP MY BRAKES...DEFINITLY ELECTRICAL AND I DONT EVEN HAVE AN AFTERMARKET STEREO SYSTEM NO AMPS...AND THE GAUGE HAS GOOD GROUND AND IS INSTALLED PROPERLY

 

The A/F gauge gets a voltage feed back from the O2 sensor, when there are sudden and/or excessive current load on the system (ie. ac compressor, lights, stereo) there will be a sudden change in the voltage supplied to the whole electrical system. There really isn't too much you can do about it witout spending money.

There are two ways to get around the problem. Both solutions stem from solutions to high power stereo current consumption. The first is to put in a brand new alternator or upgraded one with more current output. The second is to put some of your electrical subsystems (ac, headlights etc.) on a large capacitor to prevent sudden current draws.

 

no, i do not have the fan mod done. i really have had no need for it, but keep thinking about it. i have been very lazy lately [new woman], and will be doing a bunch of work on my baby this week....

btw, does anyone have any idea regarding the click and no start problem that i am experiencing? my friend brian had a similar issue in his r1, and it was fixed by a new battery, but i have a 6 month old yellow optima....my next purchase is a new alternator...

louis

 

I had the clicking problem in my old car and it was the starter... But you said you have a new one right?

 

yes, new [2 months old] starter, and new alternator is on the way as of 5 minutes ago....

louis

 

I found a fix for this.https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ghlight=switch

 

thankx, spooledUP7

do you think that this would fix my dilemma even though i have the clutch-engage switch bypassed? if so, i will try it. i just simply bypassed the [jumped over] the wires to constant......i am a lazy manual driver..

 

There are two switches. One is the clutch switch (above the clutch) and the other is the starter interlock switch that is up against the fire wall. Which did you bypass? I did this fix on mine and my budies and it worked.

 

OK, the clutch engage switch is what i have bypassed. be more explicit with the starter interlock switch for me. i will try this when i get home from work today...

oh yeah, interior or exterior firewall.....as in, is it near the clutch switch?

lou

 

Lou, it is inside the cabin on the clutch assembly closest to the fire wall. It has two 10mm bolts holding it on.
Page H-8 has a very nice photo of it in the shop manual.
The clutch switch activates when the clutch pulls away from it, while the interlock switch activates when pushed .

 

well, i guess that i could bypass this one as well, seeing is how i do not have to engage the clutch to start the car....thanks, i will try it tonight....


louis