charlies7

iTrader: (4)

To begin with i thought i had a blown engine becuase my coolant seal had possilbly blown. So the first thing i did tonight was pulled the leading spark plugs and rotated the engine backwards by the nut on the alternator. The number 1 housing had a mixture of fuel and oil and possibly coolant spitting out of the spark plug opening when i cranked it around. And there was nothing coming out of the second housing. Then we did a compression test and of course we pulled the fuel pump relay and pulled off all the plug wires. The number 1 housing peaked and 90 psi, and the second housing hit 75-80 psi. The engine was COLD!! while doing the test. Also the plug wires were gapping pretty damn bad. Pulled them out and taped them up so hopefully that might fix it. Then we tried starting the car when everything was back together and it didn't start, but the battery was not fully charged. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. The engine has 68k miles and is the original engine, so are these number where they should be??

NEED HELP!!

TwinTriangles

If you have just a regular compression test gauge you have to hold the pressure release button while your cranking and watch closely so you can get a reading on all sides...

charlies7

iTrader: (4)

bump

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Dude, if a bunch of water and oil came gushing out of the engines combustion chamber, you should just hang that one up. Go on and tear it out and apart and rebuild it. Even replacing the basic wear items such as apex seals, coolant seals, and oil orings will make a world of difference.

With that said, cold compression readings are usually slightly HIGHER than warm readings...therefore you have a pretty weak engine, even if it didnt have coolant seal issues. You'd have around 70-80psi when warm, which is enough to cause constant hot start/flooding issues, poor idle, and slightly lower power all around.

Give that old friend a rest, and get a rebuild or replacement.

Nathan Kwok

+1