Combating the FD:s bodyroll!
Combating the FD:s bodyroll!
Hi y'all.
First time poster and long time lurker here.
Got my FD out on the roads again after a while replacing every bushing, swapping out the original coilovers for some Tein Flex Z, and a lot of other small projects.
Took a sharp bend at approx. 100 km/h and noticed a bit more bodyroll than I would like, and was thinking if you would mind giving me some input on the angle of attack of solving this issue. I felt like the body rolled primarily around the rear axle.
The two main solutions I've conjured up is too either retune the suspension once again (Thinking maybe increasing preload and harden the shock absorber) or installing a bigger rear antirollbar. At this time I am rocking stock antirollbars both front and rear.
I'm currently leaning on the antirollbar option, but would like your input.
The bodyroll itself is bearable, and the car felt more than controllable; but making it flatter in curves (especially high speed, sudden load type of scenarios.) would be fantastic without sacrificing the overall stability.
Don't wanna end up in a tree :P
Thank you!
First time poster and long time lurker here.
Got my FD out on the roads again after a while replacing every bushing, swapping out the original coilovers for some Tein Flex Z, and a lot of other small projects.
Took a sharp bend at approx. 100 km/h and noticed a bit more bodyroll than I would like, and was thinking if you would mind giving me some input on the angle of attack of solving this issue. I felt like the body rolled primarily around the rear axle.
The two main solutions I've conjured up is too either retune the suspension once again (Thinking maybe increasing preload and harden the shock absorber) or installing a bigger rear antirollbar. At this time I am rocking stock antirollbars both front and rear.
I'm currently leaning on the antirollbar option, but would like your input.
The bodyroll itself is bearable, and the car felt more than controllable; but making it flatter in curves (especially high speed, sudden load type of scenarios.) would be fantastic without sacrificing the overall stability.
Don't wanna end up in a tree :P
Thank you!
Read this:
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-w...setup-723617/|
Body roll on a street car that has pretty good negative camber as it the shock compresses is not really a bad thing. you could go super stiff springs and hate your car or go stiffer sways and call it a day
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-w...setup-723617/|
Body roll on a street car that has pretty good negative camber as it the shock compresses is not really a bad thing. you could go super stiff springs and hate your car or go stiffer sways and call it a day
Spring Rate (R) 448lbs/in (8kgf/mm)
Spring Rate (F) 560lbs/in (10kgf/mm)
According to Banzai's site, the spring rates are about average for road use. Higher than I personally prefer but maybe their shock valving can handle it and still offer some road comfort.
https://www.banzai-racing.com/store/product1335.html
Definitely play with settings before throwing more parts at it.
Spring Rate (F) 560lbs/in (10kgf/mm)
According to Banzai's site, the spring rates are about average for road use. Higher than I personally prefer but maybe their shock valving can handle it and still offer some road comfort.
https://www.banzai-racing.com/store/product1335.html
Definitely play with settings before throwing more parts at it.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,857
Likes: 3,243
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Mazda usually likes body roll, it does give the driver feedback on how hard they are cornering.
since you can tune the suspension, its probably the best place to start
since you can tune the suspension, its probably the best place to start
Hi y'all.
First time poster and long time lurker here.
Got my FD out on the roads again after a while replacing every bushing, swapping out the original coilovers for some Tein Flex Z, and a lot of other small projects.
Took a sharp bend at approx. 100 km/h and noticed a bit more bodyroll than I would like, and was thinking if you would mind giving me some input on the angle of attack of solving this issue. I felt like the body rolled primarily around the rear axle.
The two main solutions I've conjured up is too either retune the suspension once again (Thinking maybe increasing preload and harden the shock absorber) or installing a bigger rear antirollbar. At this time I am rocking stock antirollbars both front and rear.
I'm currently leaning on the antirollbar option, but would like your input.
The bodyroll itself is bearable, and the car felt more than controllable; but making it flatter in curves (especially high speed, sudden load type of scenarios.) would be fantastic without sacrificing the overall stability.
Don't wanna end up in a tree :P
Thank you!
First time poster and long time lurker here.
Got my FD out on the roads again after a while replacing every bushing, swapping out the original coilovers for some Tein Flex Z, and a lot of other small projects.
Took a sharp bend at approx. 100 km/h and noticed a bit more bodyroll than I would like, and was thinking if you would mind giving me some input on the angle of attack of solving this issue. I felt like the body rolled primarily around the rear axle.
The two main solutions I've conjured up is too either retune the suspension once again (Thinking maybe increasing preload and harden the shock absorber) or installing a bigger rear antirollbar. At this time I am rocking stock antirollbars both front and rear.
I'm currently leaning on the antirollbar option, but would like your input.
The bodyroll itself is bearable, and the car felt more than controllable; but making it flatter in curves (especially high speed, sudden load type of scenarios.) would be fantastic without sacrificing the overall stability.
Don't wanna end up in a tree :P
Thank you!
560/448lb-in (10K/8K) spring rates of the Tein Flex Z is a pretty common spring rate. FDs tend to benefit from stiffer FRONT swaybars than rear. I would get a larger front bar.
High rate springs don't introduce stiction as compared to thicker roll bars, they also act in reducing settling time in pitch which bars won't do. An appropriate spring rate means you probably won't try to over damp it either which can mean actually having better high speed bump/road disturbance quality than softer springs and over damping to compensate.
If it is lowered on guts returning closer to factory ride high should return roll centres closer to centre of mass too which mean less roll for the same spring/damping rates.
If it is lowered on guts returning closer to factory ride high should return roll centres closer to centre of mass too which mean less roll for the same spring/damping rates.
Last edited by Slides; Jun 3, 2025 at 03:29 AM.
I'm on Tein Flex Z on a street car and the biggest difference I've noticed was installing a thicker/bigger Front Sway Bar (I'm using Tripoint Adjustable Front Sway Bar) to reduce the body roll. Still one of my favorite suspension performance mods.
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