Does anyone else's car idle rough for the first 5 minutes or so until it starts to warm up? I have my emissions gone and only have the wax rod and double throttle left, and mine will run rough and the idle will surge up and down between 1100 and 1400 until it is warm. Once it is warm, it is golden. So..anyone else's cars do this? Do you just deal with it?

Trev

 

are you still having this problem, i thought you solved it in a previous post?

 

No, the problem I had with the car was that it would buck and jerk and run like crap no matter how warmed up it was. I found that I had the front and rear trailing coil connections swapped around. Now, I am just having the car running very rough ONLY when it is cold. I always let the car idle for the first 5 minutes to warm up and let the idle smooth out. After that, I drive it. I was just wondering if this is a commong problem for those with their emissions removed? I also have a wide open exhaust and no airpump. Rich has suggested the ISC might need cleaning as well.

Trev

 

Definitely clean the ISC but also check your mechanical throttle body settings also - especially the air bleed screw under the throttle body. Once the mechanical settings are in order, check the TPS voltage. Mechanical settings affect values of the TPS fyi.

I'm running open exhaust, no air pump but do have ISC and the idle warm up thing.

 

I have the same problem , Running 30/70 anti/water... Once it gets warmed up it idles at a perfect 500...

?

 

Well, I do have my AWS valve plugged in, but it is just dangling because I blocked it off. I have it dangling so it doesn't trigger a hidden CEL. Maybe that is causing the issue though...being plugged in still. I will clean it out and test the air bleed screw. Don't they say when the car is warmed up that the idle screw on the top shouldn't be holding the throttle open at all and the air bleed screw should be 1/2 turn open??

 

Perfect @ 500rpm?

Perfect idle is considered between 750-850.

 

So, I am going to unplug my dangling AWS valve and see if it still surges on a cold start. I left it plugged in and just dangling so I wouldn't get a CEL code.

Trev

 

Not trying to threadjack, but I have a similar issue, but my car will die at cold start, and after it is warm it runs at 600 or so..I have to keep the throttle open a bit to keep her going..can I get a link to some idle speed adjustment procedures? Its n/a BTW...thanks

 

Sounds like the maleable seals are worn and need to warm/expand to seal correctly.

 

sounds pretty normal for a cold rotary engine. Mine sounds rough (about 1400) for the first 30secs and then is fine. As long as there are no other issues.

 

The "Perfect Idle" Depends on your mods first of. Mines 1000. But anyways yours goin up to the 1100 to 1400 is part of the accelerated warmup sequence for the car. Its normal on a 3rd gen. As for running rough you may need to check the idle screw and set it and adjust it until your at the idle you want, after its warmed up of course. That way it can intake enough air while warming up and may help with your rough running while starting it up.

 

bad o2 sensor will do this..

if someone else mentioned this already, then i'm sorry. i was to lazy to read this one