Code 11 FD3S
09-13-09, 11:59 PM
#1
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Code 11 FD3S
Hey Guys,
Ok this has happened to me twice where I'm driving and the Check Engine Light (CEL) turns on for a brief 1 minute or less and goes away and haven't seen it since. Anyways I did the code check from the Diagnostics box near the battery. So I connected a paper clip to the two pins ect. and the Long blink with the short blink pop up which is code 11 Intake Air Thermosensor (Engine). Any hell why doesn't my CEL turn on when I turn on my car? Could it be a loose connection? Where exactly is it located at? I was told under the Intake manifold, so if anyone has pics please post them. Does this code 11 mean my car is running a bit more rich then it's suppose to? If any one from southern California know of any good rotary shops in the I.E. Riverside area please let me know. Thanks guys
Ok this has happened to me twice where I'm driving and the Check Engine Light (CEL) turns on for a brief 1 minute or less and goes away and haven't seen it since. Anyways I did the code check from the Diagnostics box near the battery. So I connected a paper clip to the two pins ect. and the Long blink with the short blink pop up which is code 11 Intake Air Thermosensor (Engine). Any hell why doesn't my CEL turn on when I turn on my car? Could it be a loose connection? Where exactly is it located at? I was told under the Intake manifold, so if anyone has pics please post them. Does this code 11 mean my car is running a bit more rich then it's suppose to? If any one from southern California know of any good rotary shops in the I.E. Riverside area please let me know. Thanks guys
Last edited by RedX7FD; 09-14-09 at 12:03 AM.
09-14-09, 01:24 AM
#2
go here: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/tech-manual-directory-614824/ get the manual and check the whole thing out for yourself, its the cheapest and most rewarding trail. otherwise I can only recommend mariah motorsports in santa barbara; the do work on all mazdas but they specialize in rotaries specifically the fc but when I was last there they had 3 fd's under the knife.
09-14-09, 03:38 AM
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Turd Ferguson
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posting in the regional forum would yield more results but Mazdatrix is in Long Beach, Lucky7Racing is in Duarte/ElMonte and Neptune Speed is Huntington Beach...
There's more but those are off the top of my head...
There's more but those are off the top of my head...
09-14-09, 05:36 AM
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F D 3 S
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I was getting this code also and I ordered a new IAT sensor through Mazda, and gaskets through Mazdatrix. I changed it out myself a couple of weeks ago and it is a bitch to get to. Took about 5-6 hours (first FD and never really worked on cars before). In the FSM you can sort of see where it goes on page 127(E-87) and the actual sensor is at the bottom of page 358(F-169).
09-14-09, 06:58 AM
#5
IIRC I had a transient CEL once or twice as my IAT was going as well. It will likely come on and stay on soon. And yes, it will make your car run rich.
FWIW, you can also search for IAT relocation and consider it now. With a little effort you can unplug the IAT and simply extend the wires and connector to the new location...leaving the old failed IAT in place. In addition to the safety of the relocation, this has the added benefit of not having to remove the UIM.
FWIW, you can also search for IAT relocation and consider it now. With a little effort you can unplug the IAT and simply extend the wires and connector to the new location...leaving the old failed IAT in place. In addition to the safety of the relocation, this has the added benefit of not having to remove the UIM.
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09-16-09, 07:46 PM
#10
How to install an IAT without removing the UIM.
Time to get a fast reacting IAT. PM Dudemaaanownsanrx7. He sells them very inexpensively and you will not be sorry. I installed my IAT in a little over an hour without having to remove the UIM. The IAT is located underneath the middle of UIM on the firewall side of the UIM. In addition to FD3S2005’s photo above, I found a photo in the archives identifying the IAT’s location. You can see the IAT by placing a mirror behind the UIM, by the firewall, and looking underneath the gap. Keep in mind that the IAT installs upside down into the underside of the UIM so you must loosen and tighten the IAT opposite the way you would normally loosen/tighten a bolt accessing it from above.
The “major” tools needed to perform this work are a flex head ratcheting 19mm box wrench for removing/installing the IAT and a small mirror.
To prepare for the job, I reached under the UIM from the firewall side and first removed the stock connector by pushing the latch on the connector clip then pulling the connector off the IAT. I then removed my strut bar and moved both the crossover pipe and the pressure tank out of the way. This gave me a clear view of the stock IAT from the front with a flashlight and access to insert the box wrench under the UIM. Although the IAT is located parallel to the duty valve (from front to back), from this aspect there is not enough room to engage the ratchet to tighten or loosen the part without removing the duty valve. Remove the duty valve if you want to get a wide sweep on the ratchet or, you can leave it on, as I did by inserting the box wrench in the space that is located to the right of the duty valve angling the box head towards the IAT. I did this by feel and was able to place the box head over the IAT and with my free hand reached under the UIM, from the firewall side, to push the rear of the flexible head up and into the IAT. The IAT is actually seated at an ~10° angle with the connector end pointed towards the firewall. Standing on the passenger front of the car, I pulled the wrench towards me to loosen the stock part. There was just enough room to sweep the ratchet and hear one engaging “click.” Once loosened with the wrench, I finished removing the stock IAT by hand.
After the stock IAT was out, I removed the crush ring for reuse on the new IAT. Before installing the new IAT, I located the alignment tab on its body. I did this to know which way to reinstall the connector since it is done by “feel.” I then placed the crush ring on to the new IAT, reached back in by hand and installed the new IAT. Once hand tight, I fed the box wrench back under the UIM and snugged it down. The fast reacting IAT has a Bosch style clip on the connector. Noting the alignment on the connector, I placed the connector over the IAT then pushed into place. You will hear an audible “click” when the connector is properly engaged. I then cut off the old connector, slid shrink tape over the wires, spliced the new connector in its place (it makes no difference which wire from the connector is spliced into the factory wiring harness), soldered the connection and finished the shrink wrap installation. I finished the job by wrapping the wires with heatproof tape and then reinstalled all the parts that I moved out of the way to perform the job. If you purchase a factory IAT, you can eliminate the “splicing” portion of the job.
I have attached pictures showing how I did this. Hopefully this helps.
The “major” tools needed to perform this work are a flex head ratcheting 19mm box wrench for removing/installing the IAT and a small mirror.
To prepare for the job, I reached under the UIM from the firewall side and first removed the stock connector by pushing the latch on the connector clip then pulling the connector off the IAT. I then removed my strut bar and moved both the crossover pipe and the pressure tank out of the way. This gave me a clear view of the stock IAT from the front with a flashlight and access to insert the box wrench under the UIM. Although the IAT is located parallel to the duty valve (from front to back), from this aspect there is not enough room to engage the ratchet to tighten or loosen the part without removing the duty valve. Remove the duty valve if you want to get a wide sweep on the ratchet or, you can leave it on, as I did by inserting the box wrench in the space that is located to the right of the duty valve angling the box head towards the IAT. I did this by feel and was able to place the box head over the IAT and with my free hand reached under the UIM, from the firewall side, to push the rear of the flexible head up and into the IAT. The IAT is actually seated at an ~10° angle with the connector end pointed towards the firewall. Standing on the passenger front of the car, I pulled the wrench towards me to loosen the stock part. There was just enough room to sweep the ratchet and hear one engaging “click.” Once loosened with the wrench, I finished removing the stock IAT by hand.
After the stock IAT was out, I removed the crush ring for reuse on the new IAT. Before installing the new IAT, I located the alignment tab on its body. I did this to know which way to reinstall the connector since it is done by “feel.” I then placed the crush ring on to the new IAT, reached back in by hand and installed the new IAT. Once hand tight, I fed the box wrench back under the UIM and snugged it down. The fast reacting IAT has a Bosch style clip on the connector. Noting the alignment on the connector, I placed the connector over the IAT then pushed into place. You will hear an audible “click” when the connector is properly engaged. I then cut off the old connector, slid shrink tape over the wires, spliced the new connector in its place (it makes no difference which wire from the connector is spliced into the factory wiring harness), soldered the connection and finished the shrink wrap installation. I finished the job by wrapping the wires with heatproof tape and then reinstalled all the parts that I moved out of the way to perform the job. If you purchase a factory IAT, you can eliminate the “splicing” portion of the job.
I have attached pictures showing how I did this. Hopefully this helps.
11-25-09, 09:32 AM
#14
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hello fellow my fellow rotaryheads well i got this air intake thermosensor fix but just last week i saw my cel and then went away, and pulled the same code 11. Any reason why is it gone bad again?
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