unnerv

I have been having trouble with getting into 1st and reverse lately when the car is fully stopped. When this happens I usually have problems getting into any gear. Most of the time this only happens when the car is warm. When the car is cold (ie 1st startup) there also is no issue. Usually to get into 1st when I am driving up to a stop light I will pull it out of gear and coast until down to 1 - 2 mph and it will slide into 1st no problem before I come to a complete stop. I read up on a bunch of the threads here but not sure they really apply, so I figured I would get some of you guys opinions.

There is no issue getting into gear with the engine off. It slides in and out of all the gears no problem. I thought maybe the clutch wasn't disengaging fully so I got someone under the car while it was off and depressed the clutch and he could see it disengage. He then inserted a .020 feeler gauge between the clutch and pressure plate thru the inspection hole and I engageed the clutch on it so the guage was held in place. I then slowly pushed the pedal in until he said that the gauge would slide out again. The pedal was only half way down so, I am farely sure that it is fully disengaging.

Based on the fact that it only happens warm and that I have trouble getting into most gears when it happens I don't think it is syncros. I bought a stainless line that I was going to put in, but after testing the disengagement, I don't think that will be the fix either. I am thinking that it must be when the master or slave cylinder is getting warm it does not function the same when cold and the clutch is not fully disengaging.

I am mechanically inclined, but this is the 1st car I have really worked on myself so before I go an blow the cash on a new master and slave I wanted to get a few more opinions.

Thanks

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

It could be the pilot bearing.

unnerv

Ok I have just finished reading up on what the pilot bearing does and how it can cause the input shaft to not slow down when the clutch is in. Is there a way to test for this without pulling the tranny/clutch? Maybe jacking the rear end up and seeing if the wheels spin with engine on and clutch disenegaged?

Also is there a way to check the alignment of the input shaft/pilot bearing without tearing it all apart. When I installed my B&M I noticed the shifter was slightly more to the passenger side of the hole in the tranny tunnel.

Thanks!

pgirl13

I think I have the same problem wiht my car

Marcel Burkett

Your master and /or slave cylinders are leaking , you need to replace (advised) or rebuild them.

unnerv

Well I just ordered a master and slave since that is way easier to replace than the pilot bearing. Hopefully that does it.

unnerv

Got the Master/Slave/braided line installed today. I only got to drive it a little, but it seems like the problem is still there. Guess it is either the pilot bearing or the sycros. Still is kinda weird that it only happens after the car is fully warm.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

You can test the slave cylinder to see if the rubber seal thing is still good.
Pilot bearing should make noise if its bad.
bad syncro would still go in gear but then kick it out or grind horibly
it could possibly be a broken gear and shattered peices are blocking the other gears.
(^had that happen in the honda)

I had the same problem and it was so bad I had to turn the engine off in between gears.
I had it fixed by adjusting free play and lengthening the pdeal travel. I think that's right. I had it done for me. Don't forget to check the gold clutch ring and fork.

unnerv

just an update incase anyone actually uses the search and finds this. I replaced the tranny with a used one I picked up locally. Took care of the problem. My mechanic says it was most likely the syncros

unnerv

Just another update, problem seems to be coming back. Maybe the warm weather? Seems to get worse the warmer the car gets. I'll keep you guys posted if I ever find a solution. I am thinking of trying a thicker gear oil like maybe the new Amsoil 75W110

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

A thicker gear oil isn't going to help. Actually, it will be worse until the oil warms up.

leafs89

iTrader: (1)

There are a lot of these threads regarding 1st and reverse gears not going smoothly from years ago but nobody has posted a concrete solution in any of these cases. Has anybody solved this problem that could shed some light? I am worried that i may be in the same scenario. Thanks

unnerv

I have since gone to ford XTM5QS which is fords solution to a sticky tranny in their contours. I replaced it about 600 miles ago and while it is kinda expensive but has reduced the problem to where it is very infrequent. My guess is the FM in the other fluids were not that great coupled with the heat thinning the fluid too much when it was hot. I never seemed to have the problem coming off the freeway, but if I was driving around town on a hot day it used to act up quite a bit. Maybe because the after market cats don't have very good heatshield heat is building up? Dunno. I have yet to try a heavier fluid but so far the ford stuff has been pretty good.