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Clutch related issue HELP!!!

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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 08:11 AM
  #26  
DaveW's Avatar
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From: Bath, OH
Originally Posted by kwerks
I took the piece to a machine shop and they said they can make new threads for a larger bolt in case mazda ever stops making the part.
You could probably Helicoil the threads for somewhat less money. Most auto parts stores have helicoil kits, as does McMaster Carr, etc.

Dave
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 08:14 AM
  #27  
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Yuri, get used to Mazda prices on these cars, that's small potatoes compared to an engine wiring harness or a rotor housing.

If it's my car, I'm getting the new part. One less failure point, in an area that's not easily accessible without crawling under the car.....
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 08:46 AM
  #28  
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From: Bath, OH
Originally Posted by DaveW
You could probably Helicoil the threads for somewhat less money. Most auto parts stores have helicoil kits, as does McMaster Carr, etc.

Dave

BTW, I forgot to mention that Helicoiled threads (if done properly, and it's not hard to do) are significantly stronger than the original threads, especially in aluminum.

Dave
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 05:37 PM
  #29  
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Ah, I should have known better than to doubt you Dave

In this application, there's no need for stronger threads. If the greasemonkeys working on the car would avoid using an impact gun to tighten the bolts that is.......
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 06:11 PM
  #30  
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From: Bath, OH
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Ah, I should have known better than to doubt you Dave

In this application, there's no need for stronger threads. If the greasemonkeys working on the car would avoid using an impact gun to tighten the bolts that is.......

I only mentioned the Helicoil thing because he was talking about getting the parts re-tapped oversize, and Helicoils are a better solution than that, retaining the original bolt size, etc.

You're sure right about impact wrenches...

Dave
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 09:56 PM
  #31  
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From: NNJ
Thanks Dave i'll keep that in mind
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 11:25 AM
  #32  
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Updating this the last time:

The problem has gone away after fixing JUST the clutch master cyl as the old slave was still in functional form. To keep things fresh I decided to change the slave as well. I also went ahead and changed 4 of the brake lines to RacingBrake lines which give a very good responsive feel on the brakes and you notice I noticed right away.

Parts:
  1. Clutch Master Cylinder (mazda dealer) $104.00
    Comes with replacement hose to the master fluid tank
  2. Slave Cylinder (mazda dealer) $102.00
  3. Clutch Release Support Bracket (mazda dealer) $49.95
    This is the aluminum piece with thread issue
  4. RacingBrake Stainless Steel Lines
    Perfect fit and finish, works well with all the factory shims
  5. Motul 600 Fluid

(RacingBrake stocks the MOTUL 600 and is the ONLY place in NJ that will sell you as many as you want.)


Last bit of advice!

If you notice a clicking or ticking sounds / noise after pressing the clutch pedal that means your slave is miss functioning. The system will work but the noise is coming from the slave cylinder as I found it later turns into the slave just breaking apart from hydrological pressure. I was able to mine back together and it worked well but I chose to replace it anyway.
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