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clutch problems please help

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Old 03-25-03, 06:49 PM
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White is tight

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clutch problems please help

A couple of days ago I was coming back from an idrc event in Phoenix and my clutch started acting weird. I down shifted to third to pass a car when i shifted back into 4th gear i let my foot off the clutch and the pedal stayed on the floor. There is all free play untill about the last inch off the floor. The car is almost impossible to get into gear. When i get it into gear the clutch doesn't seem to slip. Could this be the clutch booster. Maybe a hydrolic line. Please I need help. I read on a web site that the clutch is not an easy job in the fd. I don't want to replace it if I don't have to right now. I though it might have just been hot but I tried it last night and it still did the same thing. The fluid is still full as well. Thanks in advance
Old 03-25-03, 07:27 PM
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the problem is probally either your clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder or your clutch line. You might have a bubble in there or something. First you should check to see if you soft pipe line located between the hard pipe lines connecting the clutch master and slave cylinder together. Are there any leaks or cuts? Then try to blead your clutch line via the regular way you do the brakes but with the clutch pedal. If that dont work, pull out a 14mm wrench and take off the banjo fitting at the clutch master cylinder end which is located in the engine compartment adn then get a very long extension and take off the 2-12 mm bolts holding the clutch master cylinder on to the car (note this is in the cabin, on both sides of the clutch, there is a rod connecting/pushing against the clutch master cylinder from the pedal). after you get the clutch master cylinder out, test to see if it leaks any fluid back in to the line that goes to the resorvior. if it does not, then it is fine and you must now take off the clutch slave cylinder connected to teh out side of the tranny/clutch assembly easily located on teh under neath of the car. its being also held on by 2 bolts and the hard pipe line. test this to see if its holding its pressure or if there are any leaks. other then that, you might also want to look thru the service hole for the tranny and see if your clutch fork is bent or broker or something like that.

good luck and report back what you find.

P.S. the clutch master and slave cylinders are rebuildable, check out mazdatrix.com for prices and pics of them.
Old 03-25-03, 07:38 PM
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White is tight

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thanks for the reply. I checked the soft hose and it is not leaking. I don't see any fluid. Do you think the car would have made a nasty noise if the clutch fork broke I was going about 120. I did a search and found similar problems most of them were traced back to the (pilot bearing being stuck?) I think. does that sound like it could be ther problem problem

thanks
Old 03-28-03, 05:31 AM
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idk, might be, did you test out the clutch master and slave cylinder, these you dont need to dissasemble the tranny to check.
Old 03-28-03, 07:14 AM
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open up the inspection hole on the bottom of bell housing...2 10mm bolts...you get your flashlight and have your friend push the clutch pedal and see of the TO bearing and fork are functioning properly...you will see the center of the pressure plate splines pull back as the TO bearing is retracted. This action should occur independent of transmission gearing and will quickly verify if you have issues with the fork, splines, or TO bearing. If you see the fork is not moving, then it will most likely be a hydraulic issue.

The center of the pressure plate has a "**** ring" that will seat on the "clutch release collar" on a rounded groove that exist ont he engagement collar. It is possible that could have popped of or broken...doing the above will prove this quickly.
Old 03-30-03, 01:07 AM
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Originally posted by cover8
open up the inspection hole on the bottom of bell housing...2 10mm bolts...you get your flashlight and have your friend push the clutch pedal and see of the TO bearing and fork are functioning properly...you will see the center of the pressure plate splines pull back as the TO bearing is retracted. This action should occur independent of transmission gearing and will quickly verify if you have issues with the fork, splines, or TO bearing. If you see the fork is not moving, then it will most likely be a hydraulic issue.

The center of the pressure plate has a "**** ring" that will seat on the "clutch release collar" on a rounded groove that exist ont he engagement collar. It is possible that could have popped of or broken...doing the above will prove this quickly.
use goggles when doing this, all types of **** can fly out at you!
Old 03-30-03, 01:11 PM
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what happens when you pump your pedal? does it get harder. if not its probably your master or slave
Old 04-01-03, 08:02 PM
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the clutch pedal doesn't get any harder when I pump it. It dosen' t seem to do much of anything. The car has just sat in my garage since i got back from phoenix. My tools and jack are over at my other house. I have a quick question for anyone with an answer. My oil pan has been leaking since I had the car(mazda reman)and it really pisses me off. If i have to drop the tranny to fix any of the problems do you think it would be easier to fix the pan while I am at it (This all sounds like alot of fun) My engine mounts are probably shot to. Is this a job I should try to take on myself? I have alot of experience with cars. Haven't really woked on 7's too much. I would rather do it myself save money and know it has been done right. thanks for all you help. I will start working on it tomorrow
Old 04-01-03, 11:19 PM
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The oil pan and the tranny are two separate jobs. You could make it into one job by pulling the engine. Probably not worth it.
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