Just finished installing a clutch and the car turns on, but the clutch pedal just either stay normal (like when the car is in neutral) or goes all the way to the ground. Any ideas on what might be the problem? How do I go about bleeding the clutch?

 

I tried bleeding it and the pedal gives no resistance. So I can I bleed it? Any ideas?

 

Well, it's most likely either one of two problems:

1. Slave cylinder isn't connected to the clutch fork
2. Too much air in the system

What I did was use a Brake Bleeder:

http://www.focussport.com/pbleed.htm

to push all the air out. Once that was done, I did one more normal clutch bleed and things were fine. I suppose you could bleed it the normal way, however it will probably take quite a few pumps on the clutch pedal. Since you have no pressure in it now, you'll have to pull it off the floor each time.

 

Find some one to help, that knows how to bleed a clutch.

 

her is what i do : hook a mightyvac with a catch tank up to the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. break it loose and start sucking.(fluid threw the system) Have someone keep an eye on the level in the resevoir so you don't defeat yourself by pulling air threw if it runs out of fluid. Do this a couple of times to make sure it's all out of there.

 

If Bleeding Doesnt Work Try this..
1. Remove Lower inspection plate and check to see if the throwout bearing is locked to the snap ring.

2 Remove side inspection plate located driversside on top check to see if slave cylinder is lined up propery with clutch fork

If the throw out bearing is not locked to the snap ring this is what I did ...
1. push the slave cylinder piston back via the upper inspection plate. or remove it and push the piston back.. it made the next step easier doing this...

2. using the lower inspection plate ....using a large screwdriver or pry bar , gently pry on the back of the clutch fork pushing the throwout bearing forward until it snaps with the snap ring.........

this has happened to a few people before

I was not that fortunate I had to remove the trans again because my snap ring was broke....

 

If you pull the clutch back with your hand you can push it back in till you get resistance to bleed it.

 

I tried that, I am going to try the what the rest of the guys said and let you know the outcome. thanks for the reply I thought this problem was rare and that i broke something

 

check to see that the push rod is still there, i think it falls out if you try to bleed the clutch with out the throw out bearing on the snap ring,

 

Ding Ding we have a winner! Check to make sure the throwout bearing is on the snap ring FIRST!!!! if not and you pump the pedal and actually do have hydraulic pressure you will push the piston out of the cylinder.

 

Would that also cause no brake fluid to come out the bleeding nozzel on the slave cylinder?

 

1 I have looked and it seem like its engaged and the fork does not move even with the slave cylinder removed, so can I assume that the TB is in the snap ring.

2. I cant see but when i feel around the slave cylinder is in that half moon hole. The slave cylinder still seems to be depressed.

I also tried the vac, fluid is flowing (drips only with out vac) but still no resistance in clutch pedal.

Any Ideas? I am just thinking about taking it somewhere if I can't figure it out.

 

OK, well here is my problem. I had installed my motor not too long ago and I finally got around today to bleeding the clutch since I had cracked the line when I removed all my ABS, don't ask me why. Anyways, my clutch pedal was going all the way to the floor so I thought I must have air in my system, so I began to bleed it. Well, I was getting nowhere fast, no fluid.....odd I thought. Then fluid began pouring out of the lower access panel on the bell housing. ****, slave must be bad, letting fluid through the rubber grommet. So I removed the slave, and the rod never came out. I stuck my finger in the slave cylinder hole and the rod fell to the bottom of the bell housing. Removed the rod, checked the seal...it looked good.

Installed the slave cylinder back in, felt like the rod was lined up with the release fork. Get everything ready again to try and bleed it....same deal. No fluid...then it bagan pouring out the access hole again. ****! So I removed the slave cylinder again....no rod.....again! Felt around inside...no rod to be found. It had shot out of the slave cylinder, pass the starter, and behind the flywheel....on the motor side. YEAH ME!

Now I got it back out without having to drop the tranny with a coat hanger and a little luck. Now before I install it again.....what is the deal? I checked my snap ring...it appears to be locked on. I tried to push the fork in by hand....it is tight as hell, couldn't budge it. Is something wrong? Should it be that tight? Am I just not aligning the rod right with the fork? Please help....I am trying to get my car started for the first time in almost a year, and I keep running into problems.

Sorry this is so long.

Thanks,
Scott

 

Scott,

It just sounds like you aren't getting it aligned with the little hole in the fork or at least keeping it in there when you bolt it on. It doesn't sounds like there is anything physically wrong with the slave cylinder from your description (however, I'm not the one actually looking at it).

I guess you could always get one of those slave cylinder rebuild kits at your local auto store just in case. They are pretty cheap (compared to other FD parts).

 

Found out that the TOB was not locked on....tried to push it all the way on with a pry bar.....and it broke. Found out that the metal snap ring on the TOB was not connected to the pressure plate properly and I was trying to force it in and snapped one of the ears right off of the TOB.

Long story short....fucked it all up, pulled the tranny tonight, ordering a new TOB tomorrow and hopefully have my car running by this weekend......we'll see.

Nothing goes right on this car......EVAR!

Scott