xxxROBxx

Right, getting very annoyed with my car at the moment. Just had the clutch replaced and now I have a problem. With the car running if i press the clutch down it sticks at the floor and wont select a gear, if i turn the car off i can get it into gear but then when I start the car it drives itself even if the pedal is to the floor. i can manually pull the pedal up but then just sticks to the floor next time it's pressed.

After doing a bit of reading i've narrowed it down to the master and/or slave cylinder or the pipe between the two. Does anyone have a pic of this pipe so i know what i'm looking for? And if it is the cylinders are they easy to change and are they costly bits? Any help is most appreciated as i'm getting fed up at the mo.

As a side issue when the clutch was replaced the biting point was at the floor and hasn't raised since (about 3 weeks of daily driving)

Right whinge over i'm opening a nice Rioja and not stopping till i'm plastered (about 2 glasses then!)

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

I'd have to agree with the slave/master cylinder being toast. This happened to me a few years ago in my old Prelude. I took it to a shop to get fixed, I would suggest doing the same. It's much easier if you don't already know what you're doing in there.

4CN A1R

iTrader: (6)

master: $100-$160
slave: $100-$150

if you order the master cylinder...i think it comes with the pipe

CMonakar

You could have air in the line. Try bleeding it before you start replacing parts.

93RedDragonFD

iTrader: (16)

+1 I agree, simillar thing happended to me one time and it was just an air bubble that needed to be bled out.

DMoneyRX-7

iTrader: (2)

+2 on bleeding the system before replacing parts. This happened to me last year and it was the slave cylinder. Damn was it scary when it started malfunctioning.

93RedDragonFD

iTrader: (16)

haha, you have no idea...

FDZero

iTrader: (10)

You should invest in the Speed Bleeders...makes bleeding air a "one-man job." Haha...okay...so I'm not an advertiser but it really works and it's cheap.

93RedDragonFD

iTrader: (16)

Where can you get these at?

slayerx7

iTrader: (4)

If the above solutions dont fix it, you may have a shot pilot bearing. Mine was obliterated, and I think that caused the trans input shaft to change enough that the inside of the throwout bearing was catching on the splines. My clutch would return to normal position, but same symptoms. Perhaps yours is 'sticking' furtherback than mine. I hope it just needs bleeding, cause its always a headache to have to pull the tranny... unless you have a warranty

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Check inexpensive/easy things first, but it could also be a broken clutch fork. You should be able to see that through an inspection port on the bellhousing though.

Smitter

maybe the shop did'nt install the slave correctly after redoing the clutch. there should be no air in the lines since it is unecessary to bleed the system to do the clutch. the slave can be tricky to install in the bell housing. make sure it is engaging the clutch fork.

violentsnail

+ 1 on bleeding the system, same thing happened to me and it fixed the problem.
With that said, a month later it stopped fixing the problem and I needed a new master cyl.

seanfd3s

bleed it or check for leakes first before anything is replaced

xxxROBxx

Thanks for the advice guys, turns out that the pipe from the slave and the master has split and was spilling fluid all over my engine bay! The oil filter looks like it got the pox now.
Can anyone tell me the size of the pipe so i can get a replacement? Or it's correct name even. Also would a motor factor sell these or do i need to get it from a mazda specialist?
Thanks again

HawaiianRedMako

call Ray Crowe Malloy at 1-888-533 3400.

I just called him yesterday and ordered the rebuild kit for the clutch master cylinder, cost $19.95 shipping to Hawaii about $14.75. The part should arrive sometime tomorrow, great service.

Yeah, I know, shipping sucks when you live in the middle of the Pacific. But its way cheaper than ordering from Mazda dealer.

good luck on your FD, I use a stainless steel braided line between the Master and Slave.

xxxROBxx

i've just replaced the clutch line with a braded one and bled the system (about 4 times in total) but still the clutch pedal feels spongy.

Decided to have a look at the clutch so took off the inspection cover and from what i can see the wedge collar and clutch release collar dont seem to be moving much. Below are some pics with the clutch pedal at the top of it's travel, ie no pressure on it:






When i got the wife to push the pedal down there was a small amount of movement from the clutch release collar but the clutch did not move from the fly-wheel.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what could cause this? I'm thinking it could be the master and or slave cylinders? Or could it be a prob when fitted? Also someone mentioned about the slave cylinder being tricky to fit so check taht, how would i do this?

The car has been working for 3 weeks since the clutch was replaced so everything was working before

Any advice would be appreciated

Thanks

Rob

Smitter

to check that the slave cylinder is in the fork just look in the inspection plated at the bottom of the bell housing.. u will probably need to close one eye and use a light in order to see up there. if the car worked fine for 3 weeks after changing the clutch then its probably not that

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like the same symptoms I have. I'm going to be rebuilding my slave cylinder this week and I would suggest you do the same.

xxxROBxx

it's been reccomended that i could have an airlock in the slave as the front of the car was jacked up when i bled the sysyem, gonna try and remove it and manually push it back into position and hope for the best. If not then i may well be rebuilding my slave

axnjaksn

iTrader: (2)

flush you brake fluid and use a turkey bastor to suck the old fluid out of the resivoir too, then flush you clutch line, should help, my fluid was like blk and the clutch would stick if I held my foot on it like at a light waiting

xxxROBxx

Had the car up on 4 axle stands to bleed it yesterday, even stripped the whole system and bled it bit by bit to see if there were and splits/breaks that would let in air.

Used my ezeebleed system and also used my mytivac to suck the fluid out from the bleed valve, did the whole pressing of the pedal and tightening of the bleed nipple too, still doesn't bloody work.

Tested the slave and i'm fairly sure it's not that, but got one on order so will try that on fri. I'm beginning to thing the fork may be bent or that is something to do with the release mechanism of the clutch itself.

The hydralic system seems to be working ok, watching the slave move in and out when the pedal is depressed says to me that the system is working but i dont know how much it is supposed to move so cannot be 100% sure yet.

I'm running out of ideas and things i can test myself so i'm thinging of taking it to a garage, only prob with that is that i would need a trailer as it cannot be driven.

Damn this is really getting on my **** now, and to top it all i think i flooded the engine yesterday! Took the plugs out to see if that will help and gonna try and get it started later today

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

i was having similar problems after i replaced my clutch.

it turned out when i would push the clutch in, the slave cylinder was missing the dimpled lever thing inside the bell housing. Then what would happen is the slave cylinder would eventually just push itself apart from being overly extended.

If you look in the inspection port or maybe in the spot where the slave cylinder goes you should see a rounded dimple on a lever where the rounded rod of the slave cylinder needs to push against. It can be a little tricky to get it to line up correctly and you may need a second person pushing on the clutch pedal while you work through the tiny ports to keep the slave going where it needs to.

Another thing i had to do was adjust the clucth pedal because it had alot of play in it and only the last few inches started engaging the clutch as you mentioned earlier in your post.

There are a couple of adjustments if you look inside the car up under the dash where the clucth pedal is. once you confirm everthing is pushing where it needs to be you should adjust those.

xxxROBxx

I have to check that oue dudemaaan, thanks bud
The clutch bite point was at the floor when it had been changed not at the top, but it's worth knowing how to adjust it as it was far too low for me.

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

no problem let us know how it turns out