t-rex7

I dropped my car off at the mechanic last week because the clutch was rattling when it was engaging. He told me that one of the fingers on the diaphragm was most likely bent. I ordered a stock unit from Mazdaperformance to replace the broken ACT unit. When I went to pick up the car I looked at the old clutch and the 'fingers' were fine. The mechanic then pointed out to me that the throw-out bearing wasn't attached like it was on the stock unit and that was probably what was giving me the problem. Does anyone know if the bearing on the ACT clutches are permanately attached or not?


Oh...the kicker... There Still was some chatter though it wasn't as bad and only happened when the car was engaging below 2,500 rpm. I asked about this and he said it'll go away when the clutch seats properly. It got a little better until last night when I couldn't even get it into gear with the engine running. I did a search and it looks like it could be a leak in the clutch line, the master or the slave cylinder could be bad.


It's back at the mechanic and I just want to be prepared and knowledgeable when I argue for a refund of the clutch installation.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

`s



the act clutch was a street/strip clutch, the full disk not a 'pucked' version

Rotarded

The throwout bearing is not permanently attached to either the stock or ACT clutches. The throwout mounts the the clutch fork and then is held to the fingers(springs) of the the pressure plate by means of the snap ring.


Here is how a push type clutch (FC) works. Fd's are pull type.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch3.htm

Mike

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

You should get ahold of Wargasm's home-made video showing the clutch assembly. It's not a small file, but very worthwhile.

alberto_mg

you need a new mechanic

t-rex7

This is the last time I'm going to use him, I'm just trying to have some amo when I go to talk to him.

The previous post was a bit unclear, the clutch would rattle but when I put pressure on the pedal I could feel it pulsating and then when i engaged the clutch it would shake the car till it was fulling engaged.

Thanks guy for the info so far.

`s

t-rex7

So he said that the clutch fork broke, so that is a whole different problem, but I still have to resolve the clutch problem.

neit_jnf

iTrader: (17)

Is this fixed? How's the clutch now?

Huero

Yeah you went to wrong mechanic
Clutch is something that should fuction properly
Good Luck

SBi_Owner

If the TO bearing wasn't attached, you could not release the clutch. Chances are, he did not adjust the master push rod with the new clutch so you are not getting total release. I know from running ACT clutches, there are a few TO bearings that make noise. Another thing, I know mechanics that know nothing of pull type clutches try to pry off the tranny not knowing that the TO bearing is attached to the fork. Thats how alot of forks get cracked and broken.

I also notice that I just used Know, and knowing like 20 times.

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

For normal driving you shouldn't be engaging the clutch over 2500 rpm. It doesn't need to be slipped that much in stop and go traffic. If you slip it that much it'll generate to much heat, leading to premature wear and warpage.

t-rex7

well the problems is fixed now, the car is running like stock again. It just sucks that I had to go through this crap. Thanks for everyones help.