Clutch issues...
#1
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Clutch issues...
I got a weird problem with my stupid clutch... Actually i had this problem i think forever it only got a little worse with The sprung 6 puck...
When i first start it up and drive it for a while, the clutch probably engages half way... Then later on, if i redline it or just stop and go for a while, it starts engaging either all the way down to the floor or all the way up at the top...
Now you can imagine how messed up that is, when you are waiting for the light to turn green and you think you just let it off half way and go... Well it doesn't happen that way... It either jums like a horse or it doesn't move anywhere because the clutch pedal doesn't catch anymore where it should...
In the past i replaced the clutch hose with the SS one, used those rebuild kits to rebuild both the slave and master cylinders and the clutch kit is the XTD 6 puck sprung. Before that i had a bonez regular clutch and it did the same ****...
What a a hell is going on here? I bleed the system couple of times in which it doesn't make any difference... it does the same thing all the time....
Anybody have any suggestions on what's going on? Has anyone ever had this problem like this?
Thanks a lot.
Amel
When i first start it up and drive it for a while, the clutch probably engages half way... Then later on, if i redline it or just stop and go for a while, it starts engaging either all the way down to the floor or all the way up at the top...
Now you can imagine how messed up that is, when you are waiting for the light to turn green and you think you just let it off half way and go... Well it doesn't happen that way... It either jums like a horse or it doesn't move anywhere because the clutch pedal doesn't catch anymore where it should...
In the past i replaced the clutch hose with the SS one, used those rebuild kits to rebuild both the slave and master cylinders and the clutch kit is the XTD 6 puck sprung. Before that i had a bonez regular clutch and it did the same ****...
What a a hell is going on here? I bleed the system couple of times in which it doesn't make any difference... it does the same thing all the time....
Anybody have any suggestions on what's going on? Has anyone ever had this problem like this?
Thanks a lot.
Amel
#2
In the burnout box...
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did you bleed the system... thats all i can really think of. if you did i would try bleeding it again just to make sure. its the easiest thing to do and cheapest. did you possibly put the disk in backwards? try to rethink all of the steps you did maybe something will come up.
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probably an inch or close to it... I'm suspecting that maybe those rebuild kits for the master and slave cylinder aren't really what they should be... I may have to get both new...
#6
Potato Love
Just a shot in the dark but I'd check that SS line. What brand is it? Those uncoated ones are only good for a couple of years allegedly. The problem sounds like a problem in the hydraulic actuation of the clutch, so that's where I'd start looking.
#7
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I bought it from rx7.com 2 years ago... I checked it, it still looks good.. I got pricing from Ray Crowe on the new master and slave cylinders.. Master 99, slave 77... I'll be getting those next month probably...
Amel
Amel
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#8
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Funny. My Spec 4puck used to do the same ****. I couldnt figure it out. Someone told me it was because I had a lightweight flywheel and the heat of it related to the clutch would change how it would grab. The spec clutch blew up on me and I replaced it with an ACT 6puck sprung and it hasnt done it since. My slave and master are both less than a year old (i bought them from malloy) and I have a SS line. I didnt mess with them at all when I replaced the spec with the act. Worst Ive gotten is I'll hold the clutch down at a light for an extended period of time (maybe 2-3minutes) and when I go to release it the catch point has moved up an inch or so. By the next shift its pretty much back to normal though.
#9
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Originally Posted by Mr3plus1
Worst Ive gotten is I'll hold the clutch down at a light for an extended period of time (maybe 2-3minutes) and when I go to release it the catch point has moved up an inch or so. By the next shift its pretty much back to normal though.
My practive is to de-clutch and put the car in Netural any time that there is more than a very few seconds (3-4 sec) wait between moving the car out.
Albert
#10
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Originally Posted by BoOsTin FD
probably an inch or close to it... I'm suspecting that maybe those rebuild kits for the master and slave cylinder aren't really what they should be... I may have to get both new...
Dave
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You only need to clean the bore if there's scrapes or marks in the metal which would allow fluid to leak around the seal. If its clean metal inside you can rebuild it without boring it.
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Originally Posted by Mr3plus1
Funny. My Spec 4puck used to do the same ****. I couldnt figure it out. Someone told me it was because I had a lightweight flywheel and the heat of it related to the clutch would change how it would grab. The spec clutch blew up on me and I replaced it with an ACT 6puck sprung and it hasnt done it since. My slave and master are both less than a year old (i bought them from malloy) and I have a SS line. I didnt mess with them at all when I replaced the spec with the act. Worst Ive gotten is I'll hold the clutch down at a light for an extended period of time (maybe 2-3minutes) and when I go to release it the catch point has moved up an inch or so. By the next shift its pretty much back to normal though.
I have a 6puck sprung, and mine changes all the time on me... I never hold the clutch in for more then 10 sec or so, but still... I did notice though, that sometimes if i pump the clutch as i'm waiting for the light to go green, it goes to the point where i can actually fill it catching up....
#13
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Originally Posted by Mr3plus1
You only need to clean the bore if there's scrapes or marks in the metal which would allow fluid to leak around the seal. If its clean metal inside you can rebuild it without boring it.
I dunno, I have no experience with clutch hydraulics, only recalling advice given to me...
Dave
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
That's what the person told me *not* to do.
I dunno, I have no experience with clutch hydraulics, only recalling advice given to me...
Dave
I dunno, I have no experience with clutch hydraulics, only recalling advice given to me...
Dave
Last edited by Mr3plus1; 07-11-06 at 12:58 PM.
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Originally Posted by BoOsTin FD
I have a 6puck sprung, and mine changes all the time on me... I never hold the clutch in for more then 10 sec or so, but still... I did notice though, that sometimes if i pump the clutch as i'm waiting for the light to go green, it goes to the point where i can actually fill it catching up....
Also, check the torque on the pressure plate bolts. There's a range that you can torque them to. If you're at one extreme (either tightest or loosest), try moving the bolt torque towards the other extreme. Carefully inspect the clutch fork for hairline cracks.
Honestly, now that Im thinking about it, the only different thing I did when i put the ACT on in place of my spec (remember, i never touched my hydraulic system) was torque the ACT down to the max recommended torque rating. I had the spec on at the middle of the recommended torque rating.
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