Ive put the motor in, and put in my spec stage IV clutch. Car starts, but will not go in gear while running. I can put the car in first gear and start the car however. I can push the clutch down while the car is in gear and it will move by my leg power but it sounds like its slightly dragging. I dropped the tranny and everything seems to fine inside, the clutch is pulling away from the flywheel but must be dragging slightly, the clutch is in properly facing the correct way. I have no extra pedal pressure as I expected I would. I also never disconnected the slave cylinder line when I pulled the motor and transmission so I dont think I should have to bleed it. Any ideas on what the hell is going on? I finally have the car running decent after 6 months and I cant even move it. Let me know
Joe

 

come on, someone must know something

 

welcome to my nightmare. i have been ******* around with the spec iv clutch too. same thing happened to me when i put everything back together. car doesn't want to go into gear 2 and reverse. i have to really shove it in there. i think the problem lies in the ring that connects the throwout bearing to the pressure plate. mine was fucked and didn't want to snap in tight and came undone when i got on it. it's fun to be stuck on the side of the road. anyway ordered a new ring two weeks ago from the rexstore and still nothing. good luck. pm me when you figure out the problem thaks kvn

 

if its the spec Ill send the damn thing back, has 0 miles on it. I know my ring is tight as hell. Just need to figure it out

 

anyone?

 

did you make sure the slave cylinder is not leaking. mine seemed ok till i had someone step on the clutch to bleed it and it started to leak from the small crack in the rubber boot. had to replace it. they go bad i hear. probably can't hurt to bleed it. kvn

 

Is the clutch disc facing the proper direction? It's possible to put them in backwards and they don't release properly.

 

.

 

If it's a heavier than stock pressure plate, your clutch hydraulics might not be up to the task. Also, with heavy pressure plates, the stock rubber clutch line balloons a lot, and you lose hydraulic force to the clutch assembly. A stainless braided clutch line is a must with a heavy pressure plate, as are VERY healthy clutch hydraulics.

Dale

 

yup, thats what happened to my friend

and i had the same same same exact problem only that the clutch would sit at a slight angle, so the car wont go into gear when running..


i would check those 2..

 

Ive pulled the clutch twice, its facing the proper way. thats why im at a loss. the old centerforce dual friction clutch had no isses at all.

 

I just bled the clutch for about 45 minutes, kept getting air but I didnt pull any lines off of the slave cylinder so I dont get where the air is coming from. We got it to the point where the air bubbles were getting less and less then I got almost no pedal pressure out of nowhere and had to pump it up to get it back and we had huge air bubbles again

 

Did you let the reservoir run dry? The reservoir is divided and if you didn't watch closely you may have run it dry and ingested air again while bleeding it. That got me once.

 

[QUOTE=teamafx]I just bled the clutch for about 45 minutes, kept getting air but I didnt pull any lines off of the slave cylinder so I dont get where the air is coming from. We got it to the point where the air bubbles were getting less and less then I got almost no pedal pressure out of nowhere and had


The location for the slave bleed valve is poorly located. It does not bleed well there if a lot of air gets in. Lossen the bleed valve first, remove the slave cylinder from the trans, tilt the bleed valve end up, remove the valve and let the fluid leak until no air come out. Tighten and reinstall. If you still have problems, then it is either your master or flexible line, or clutch.

I bought RPs braided line and it makes the clutch disengage better than it did with the stock unit.

 

Last clutch hydraulic install I did on an FC did NOT want to bleed the air out. I eventually dug through my pile of parts and found a Speedbleeder and put it in the slave cylinder - that took care of business.

If you have a Mityvac, you can use it to pull a vacuum on the system to get the fluid started and get most of the air out, then bleed reguarly to get it 100%.

Might also want to try adjusting the clutch pedal - that can also tell you if you have clutch hydraulic problems if you have to run a LOT of pedal throw to get the clutch to disengage. http://www.clubrx.org has my writeup on shortening the pedal throw, but the same principles apply.

Dale

 

Sounds like mine when the clutch fork broke. Do a search on clutch fork and see if your symptoms match.

 

I got it to fire up in first today but when I took it out it didnt want to go into any other gear. So I shut it off and put it in neutral, started the car and I could get 2, 3, 4, and 5th. They were a little tough but not that bad. 1st and reverse have to forced in but there isnt any grinding when im doing that and the car moves no problem. Any ideas?

 

the transmission was out of the car for 6 months but i was having NO shifter problems at all before I put this new clutch in. when the car is off it shifts perfect. i gotta figure it out

 

That's because the clutch is not disengaging. Without the engine running there's no load on the input shaft of the tranny so it shifts just fine. With the engine running and the clutch not completely disengaging the car refuses to go into gear or grinds because the clutch is dragging.

Your problem is that the clutch is not disengaging. I would drop the inspection cover on the bottom and have someone work the clutch while I watched the clutch fork.

 

it is disengaging, no grinding or anything shifts into 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th fine, just not 1st and reverse. Its definetely disengaging. I can get it into first and reverse just takes a little work and then when its in 1st and reverse it doesnt move at all until I start to release the clutch pedal.

 

It's not disengaging and dragging; just not enough to actually roll the car.

If the there is extra force needed to move the shifter into any gear when the engine is running compared to when the engine is not running, then the clutch is not disengaging completely.

 

well I ordered a pressure bleeder and im going to adjust the clutch pedal to see if that helps.

 

Yup, it's dragging as Damon pointed out. Increase the amount of travel that the clutch pedal makes and remove as much as possible free play from the pedel. That should help increase the distance the pressure plate moves away from the flywheel. Good luck.

 

just want to say thanks for everyones help thus far!

 

are you sure the slave piston is engaged to the fork? also is the throw out bearing snaped into the pressure plate