Is it the Clutch?
#1
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Is it the Clutch?
Just starting a few days ago when its really cold at night and I driving my car,and when I floor the RPMs get up to 4 or 5k fine when all of the sudden my rpms fly up for around a secound or two (with no extra power) and then they fall back to what the engine is really pushing what do you think it is?
thanks
austin
thanks
austin
#4
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
#5
Cheap Bastard
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Just to confirm, you do need a new clutch. You have a lot of choices. If your car is stock, and you want to keep it that way, the OEM clutch is the way to go.
If you are going to (or already have done) some performance mods, you should consider getting a light weight flywheel to install when you put in the new clutch. Most of the light flywheels are about the same quality, and are 12 lbs with the counterweight. I chose to replace my flywheel and clutch at the same time. The ACT SS clutch was my choice. It has a slightly siffer pedal pressure than stock, but is not too stiff. I have been very happy with it. I don't expect my future mods to exceed 350 rwhp, and this clutch should be good for much higher than that.
If you are going to (or already have done) some performance mods, you should consider getting a light weight flywheel to install when you put in the new clutch. Most of the light flywheels are about the same quality, and are 12 lbs with the counterweight. I chose to replace my flywheel and clutch at the same time. The ACT SS clutch was my choice. It has a slightly siffer pedal pressure than stock, but is not too stiff. I have been very happy with it. I don't expect my future mods to exceed 350 rwhp, and this clutch should be good for much higher than that.
#7
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Originally posted by adam c
Just to confirm, you do need a new clutch. You have a lot of choices. If your car is stock, and you want to keep it that way, the OEM clutch is the way to go.
If you are going to (or already have done) some performance mods, you should consider getting a light weight flywheel to install when you put in the new clutch. Most of the light flywheels are about the same quality, and are 12 lbs with the counterweight. I chose to replace my flywheel and clutch at the same time. The ACT SS clutch was my choice. It has a slightly siffer pedal pressure than stock, but is not too stiff. I have been very happy with it. I don't expect my future mods to exceed 350 rwhp, and this clutch should be good for much higher than that.
Just to confirm, you do need a new clutch. You have a lot of choices. If your car is stock, and you want to keep it that way, the OEM clutch is the way to go.
If you are going to (or already have done) some performance mods, you should consider getting a light weight flywheel to install when you put in the new clutch. Most of the light flywheels are about the same quality, and are 12 lbs with the counterweight. I chose to replace my flywheel and clutch at the same time. The ACT SS clutch was my choice. It has a slightly siffer pedal pressure than stock, but is not too stiff. I have been very happy with it. I don't expect my future mods to exceed 350 rwhp, and this clutch should be good for much higher than that.
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#8
Cheap Bastard
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Originally posted by SNracing
what about the 9lb flywheel? is it to light for street driving/racing? and is there a big diffrence in the 9lb. and the 12lb?
what about the 9lb flywheel? is it to light for street driving/racing? and is there a big diffrence in the 9lb. and the 12lb?
#9
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by adam c
My flywheel is 9.5 lbs. The counterweight is about 2.5 lbs. That's 12 lbs. Some companies don't include the counterweight when listing the weight. A counterweight is required with a light flywheel.
My flywheel is 9.5 lbs. The counterweight is about 2.5 lbs. That's 12 lbs. Some companies don't include the counterweight when listing the weight. A counterweight is required with a light flywheel.
#10
Cheap Bastard
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Originally posted by Mahjik
That's also because the counter weight isn't part of the rotational mass, so in actuality, it shouldn't be counted.
That's also because the counter weight isn't part of the rotational mass, so in actuality, it shouldn't be counted.
Some companies, like Racing Beat include the weight of the counterweight when advertising. Some, like SR motorsports don't include it.
#11
Mr. Links
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Here's a good explaination about it:
Here's the thread if you care to read it:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=166449
Originally posted by MakoDHardie
I don't think you understand the idea of the flywheel. The 9.5lb flywheels actually weigh 9.5lbs. The counterweight is not really part of the flywheel. It does not spin with the flywheel, so the rotational mass is still the 9.5lbs, not 12. The counterweight attaches around the eccentric shaft with a tab angled so that it provides a small amount of torqe force to the engine to reduce throttle yank. I have the racing beat flywheel sitting in the shop now. It weighs 9.5lbs and it is light enough for what the car will be used for. Anything less than that and I would want to have a different engine in the car because it'd drive like a motorcycle. Clutch engagement would deffinitely suffer going lighter than what's available for street application. If you want the car to rev faster, just drop in a 3-rotor and I think you'll be satisfied.
I don't think you understand the idea of the flywheel. The 9.5lb flywheels actually weigh 9.5lbs. The counterweight is not really part of the flywheel. It does not spin with the flywheel, so the rotational mass is still the 9.5lbs, not 12. The counterweight attaches around the eccentric shaft with a tab angled so that it provides a small amount of torqe force to the engine to reduce throttle yank. I have the racing beat flywheel sitting in the shop now. It weighs 9.5lbs and it is light enough for what the car will be used for. Anything less than that and I would want to have a different engine in the car because it'd drive like a motorcycle. Clutch engagement would deffinitely suffer going lighter than what's available for street application. If you want the car to rev faster, just drop in a 3-rotor and I think you'll be satisfied.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=166449
#13
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whats the diffrence then?
here, one is steel, and the other is Aluminum.
http://66.216.67.51/product.asp?0=206&1=242&3=228
http://66.216.67.51/product.asp?0=206&1=242&3=573
steel 1 says that it includes the counter weight. so im guessing its 12lbs w/ the counter weight.
Aluminum says 9lbs w/ counter weight so isint it 9.5 w/ the counter weight?
and back to my question, if this info is correct, is the 9.5lb to light for street driving/racing.
here, one is steel, and the other is Aluminum.
http://66.216.67.51/product.asp?0=206&1=242&3=228
http://66.216.67.51/product.asp?0=206&1=242&3=573
steel 1 says that it includes the counter weight. so im guessing its 12lbs w/ the counter weight.
Aluminum says 9lbs w/ counter weight so isint it 9.5 w/ the counter weight?
and back to my question, if this info is correct, is the 9.5lb to light for street driving/racing.
#14
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by SNracing
and back to my question, if this info is correct, is the 9.5lb to light for street driving/racing.
and back to my question, if this info is correct, is the 9.5lb to light for street driving/racing.
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It should be pointed out that if you are an avid drag racer or street race from a dig, a lightweight flywheel is NOT desirable. It depends on what you want to do with the car.
When I burn out the current OEM clutch, I will be going with a lightweight flywheel and the ACT S/S clutch. If you are planning on going single, you may want to get the ACT S/S clutch disk with the Extreme pressure plate instead of the heavy duty one.
When I burn out the current OEM clutch, I will be going with a lightweight flywheel and the ACT S/S clutch. If you are planning on going single, you may want to get the ACT S/S clutch disk with the Extreme pressure plate instead of the heavy duty one.
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