NAN777

hi guys,

i have mods as below

1. Apexi power Flow
2. Blitz Nur SPec full exhaust
3. straigh down pipe

condition of car

1. speedo meter writes 85 K kilometers (actual ones no idea due to replaced motor by previous owner)
2. once in a while it smokes on high RPM when releasing the throttle (white)
3. 92 car but it's a 96 engine ( all stock 265 Bhp)
4. my S-AFC2 got stollen (bugger)
5. consumption approximately 11 MPG (that's pretty bad)

due to the robbery of my S-AFC2, i need to send my car to the workshop for a mirror replacement

below are what i will do

1. replace mirror
2. oil all my joints
3. replace LSD oil and gear oil
4. replace fuel filter

as an option, i'm throwing either one of these down but i need some suggestion which should i go first. considering a little smoke out from my exhaust all my engine condition....


Apexi POWER FC

or

replace all my tubes to silicon tubings
+
throw in some injector cleaning
+
Stainless Steel or Alluminum IC hose replacing my plasticky hoses for intake and IC.

???
need suggestion ................

RX 4 Speed

a full exhaust with no PFC? no boost controller either? You're flirting with disaster my friend.

Cgotto6

iTrader: (8)

Dont think he said full exhaust...Well he did, but I think he means Dp, Cat back, and intake...

Even still, you might wanna make sure your boost is staying at 10psi.

RX 4 Speed

true... if that's what he meant, then yeah limiting it to 10 psi max is key. If it IS a full exhaust though (with a mp), then more than just a boost controller is needed since spikes will still get him...

Cgotto6

iTrader: (8)

True, but with a mp its more the creep you gotta worry about.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

First, if you have straight-through exhaust all the way from the turbo to the tailpipe, you will have a major risk of overboost (boost creep). So hopefully you still have a catalytic converter in between the Apexi exhaust and downpipe. If not, you should do some reading here on boost creep and how to prevent it.

Second, it seems you're looking at maintenance and reliability items. Check the FAQ, etc for reliability and maintenance information. The fuel filter is an example, but there are many others. IMO, maintenance comes first, reliability mods come second, and power mods come third.

Third, what joints does your mechanic claim to oil? The stock suspension points are all sealed joints and bushings that need no maintenance except replacement if they get loose or the grease seals are compromised.

Dave

scratchjunkie

ecu for sure or you will be riding in a tuk tuk till your motor gets rebuilt.

Force13B

iTrader: (19)

You can do a code check. 10 to ground see that codes your computer is throwing, this will help you determan if a sensor is bad like a MAS or O2 whitch could make you get worse MPG.

NAN777

hi guys,

thanks for the feedback.

i forgot to add one thing. my boost currently running ranging around 7.6 PSi to 8.5 PSI. in Bar will be 0.6 to 0.7 BAR. without any boost controller.

maybe i'm suffering with a bad seal or leaking hose in the rat nest. that probably saved my *** for some time with that dangerous thing exhaust.

recently just tightened my BOV, not sure if the pressure is going up or not.

and yeah.. my exhaust is from turbo straight all the way down to my muffler (Blitz NUR spec). i don't have any catalytic converter. not even a pre-cat. it's a 3 inch piping from begining DP all the way to my muff.

one thing in my country they have a way to oil those joints. they have some connection near the joint.. loosen the nut and screw, and they are able to force greese into the joints. i've seen how they did it before. probably only very little grease goes in but better than nothing.

probably i'll get my O2 sensor checked and my vacuum hose checked then install a PFC in it..
ooooo la la... expensive PFC...

a 2nd hand HKS FCONV pro is cheaper.... which one is better ?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

PFC.

You might have your wastegate/precontrol solenoids not working right, or a boost leak holding you at 8psi, but consider that a blessing.

If you want to keep that straight-thru exhaust, you'll need to crack the turbos apart and port the wastegate opening larger. For details see www.fd3s.net. Otherwise, when you do get the boost running right the flow will probably overwhelm the wastegate and creep to excessive high levels. The BOV does not control boost on the stock setup.

A few folks over here have aftermarket suspension bushings, and they added Zerk grease fittings to them - I'll bet you have a setup similar to that.

Dave

NAN777

Thanks dave ...

really thanked my boost leak that kept my engine alive :P

i did tried the WOT test, at 4500 RPM i heard my engine gone louder and the acceleration increased. the solenoid should be fine, so does the pre-con. else i'll probably feel a very bad lost of power during transition.

in my case... boost leaks are good ..... i'll probably patch that one up when i put in my PFC.

oh yeah... isn't the PFC has the feature to set the boost ? lowering it by changing the duty ? i glanced through the FC commander instruction book. i attached a copy of what i got from the manual..... does it really work ?

cracking the turbos is pretty troublesome.

does a bleed valve help to reduce the excessive boost ?
or
installing an external wastegate ?

i'll try not to crack apart too many things under the hood.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

The PFC controls the stock wastegate door, just like an manual boost controller or electronic boost controller. All of these methods cannot help when the wastegate flow is completely overwhelmed (and this is the cause of boost creep).

The only answer is to increase the wastegate opening to handle the flow, or restore some restriction to the exhaust to reduce the flow. An external wastegate, to my knowledge, is not compatible with the stock manifolds. Removing and disassembling to grind a larger wastegate opening is very effective, but it takes a few hours of labor at least. Installing an exhaust restrictor plate or catalytic converter (high-flow or stock) is the easiest answer.

Dave

NAN777

i have one ....

blitz bur spec is 3.5 inch. i have a plate at the end pipe bolted on, reducing the pipe mouth to 1.5 inch. does it help ?

supposingly a silencer for the blardy noisy exhaust...... does it work reducing the boost pressure ?

FD3SALLMOTOR

at least you have a boost gauge, butlook into a bc!!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Yep, leave that silencer in and it should restrict flow enough.

I would get a single manual boost controller made from a simple ball-spring valve and install it in place of the wastegate restrictor pill line. You can find details in the FAQ - Damian did a slick write-up on it. Once that's installed and tuned, and watch to see if the boost stays rock steady and never climbs higher. Do that test in 4th gear at 110kph or so. If the boost creeps higher and won't stay steady, you're seeing creep and you'll need some more restriction or wastegate porting.

Dave

NAN777

Thanks for the information...

i'll get it done..... check the boost leak..put in the PFC .... run on the dyno...tune it..
if it shoots up until a level where the PFC can't control it.. then i'll put in the manual boost controller. if manual boost controller doesn't work... then will need to drill the wastegate.

NAN777

ok.... i got a PFC fitted into my car.

they found out that my turbo pre-control actuator is behaving wierd.
therefore my car is still held in the garage.

3 run of dynos, 1 of the run, the actuator did not switch on secondory turbo.
troubleshooting the actuator and some vacuum leak that might cause the actuator to behave wierd.

question here...

they install a PFC, but it's a 2nd hand. without FC commander.

1. what are the implication of running without FC commander ?
2. what are the implication of running a 2nd handed PFC ?
3. my settings with PFC installed... is it fit for a track day free run fun ?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Actually, the turbo precontrol solenoid is not usually the cause of the secondary not producing boost. But that's a discussion for another thread... Look in the "turbo troubleshooting" section of the FAQ if you want.

You won't be able to read the values and sensor levels as seen by the ECU, and you won't be able to make changes to the programming. (A PC-based datalogit is the other tool for monitoring and programming). But changing the programming is not for beginners, and if you probably won't miss the extra sensor readings either. I would shop around for one at your convenience since they are helpful in troubleshooting and handy in general.

It's just like any other used part. The success of a PFC is 98% tuning. If it installed, got the car running properly, and is still working well after the tuning process, the part is probably fine for long-term use. They don't tend to fail in normal operation.
That depends on how well tuned it is. Ask the tuner. If you couldn't get any boost above 4500rpm, it may not be well tuned in that region. Hopefully it's set to be extra rich, so if the turbo boosts above 4500 again it will not damage the engine.

Dave

rynberg

There is no way in hell I would trust the settings in that PFC!

You bought a used PFC, so the settings could be changed to anything and you have no way of verifying them or to even reset them to defaults. There is no way in hell I would even get on the car hard, let alone go to the track, without verifying safe A/F ratios at a minimum. (And even then, who knows if the timing settings have been changed!)

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Oh, man, you're right. Installing a PFC is not the same as tuning it.

Call the guys who installed it - if they didn't tune it, you need to have proper maps programmed before you do much with the car. If these guys are even close to being sufficiently competent, they would not have just plugged in a used PFC and let you go. If they did, I assure you that you need to find someone else to do the tuning.

Dave

NAN777

thanks guys,

the PFC, of course they are tuning for me. they are re-initializing it and tuning it bit by bit including timing and fuel maps. they already spent 2 days tuning it. very carefully.

as for my boost, the secondary will spool but it doesn't switch to twin mode sometimes. suspecting the pre-control. i've read through the troubleshooting and nail down to the one of the actuator that might be faulty.

will keep u all update when i got my ride back....

since my car is still tuning, won't be getting it back till this weekend. i'll let them troubleshoot my turbos. might throw in replacing all the hose into silicons if found out any of them are cracking or leaking...