check out new pop up head light kit!!!
#26
Power Trippin'
iTrader: (4)
Originally posted by clayne
Sometimes you've got to do things yourself if you want it done right.
Sometimes you've got to do things yourself if you want it done right.
"Done right" from an aesthetical perspective? I'm with the 'Bone and JimLab. It's ugly, homemade looking, and looks like freeze-dried ***.
#27
Call me gramps!
This is RoxShox's (SP?) design -- the main problem with it is the staggered mounting and the face. This could be easily fixed, as the lights could be remounted so that they are more uniform. Also, one could use the stock headlight lens with the holes drilled in it as a template to lay CF on, which could create a nice cover that looks OE. If anyone makes lights like this, I'll sue you.
#28
I have to agree with jimlab... the main problem is they look like freeze dried ***. The carbonfiber just looks cheap but then again thats a problem with alot of aftermarket headlights even the sleek ones they look in no way OEM. Ever seen a 7 with badly install sleek headlights? they look like someone tried to make them out of tupperwear.
#30
Tony Stewart Killer.
iTrader: (12)
Originally posted by Fumanchu
It just seems unless you want to spend 1200+ for the sleek light kits with HID's, pop-ups still give superior lighting due to the angle that sleek lights have to work with.
That kit definetely needs to have a more finished look to it. Also the lights should be moved next to eachother and if possible, for my tastes, have it go uo half-way like the KnightSports kit.
As soon as I come up with the funds for some HID driving lights, I am going to make my own kit that pretty much looks like this custom one that Wael El-Dasher did. It can be done for close to 600 bucks, and as you can see, has very nice light patterns. Also, seems like a breeze to do.
Nice beam pattern...
It just seems unless you want to spend 1200+ for the sleek light kits with HID's, pop-ups still give superior lighting due to the angle that sleek lights have to work with.
That kit definetely needs to have a more finished look to it. Also the lights should be moved next to eachother and if possible, for my tastes, have it go uo half-way like the KnightSports kit.
As soon as I come up with the funds for some HID driving lights, I am going to make my own kit that pretty much looks like this custom one that Wael El-Dasher did. It can be done for close to 600 bucks, and as you can see, has very nice light patterns. Also, seems like a breeze to do.
Nice beam pattern...
#32
Originally posted by SurgeMonster
fumanchu how do you do this? Id buy this for 600 right now I think thats awesome let me know
fumanchu how do you do this? Id buy this for 600 right now I think thats awesome let me know
#34
Mod Powers...gone!
Join Date: Apr 2001
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I'm impressed w/ the beam pattern from Wael El Dasher's setup. Really clean beam pattern....like stock setups.
I really don't know what to think about the lights,...looking directly at them. I don't like the way they look....but they certainly do a good job.
Great job on Wael's part of creating his own headlight kit.
I really don't know what to think about the lights,...looking directly at them. I don't like the way they look....but they certainly do a good job.
Great job on Wael's part of creating his own headlight kit.
#35
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Join Date: Jul 2003
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Originally posted by ReodDai
If they are actual HIDs they would be worth over $1000 for the lights alone.
If they are actual HIDs they would be worth over $1000 for the lights alone.
What are you talking about??? The main driving beam is a Hella Optilux DE Xenon HID fog light. It has a sharp and distinct cut off, so it can be used as the driving light. The high beam is just a Hella DE Xenon light.
The Optilux can be bought for around $500 and not sure about the high beam but it can't be that much. I wouldn't even need a nice high beam in So Cal, almost every road I drive on is well lighted.
They said the motor is a breeze to modify and both the lights can be installed just as easy in the stock headlight cradle.
Here is a link for the main light..
Hella Optilux
I have a mini-how-to that gives me more detail on how to do it.
Last edited by Fumanchu; 01-20-04 at 11:53 AM.
#37
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Look at this thread. I posted the PM that MrStock gave me.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=205848
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=205848
#39
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Originally posted by Fumanchu
Look at this thread. I posted the PM that MrStock gave me.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=205848
Look at this thread. I posted the PM that MrStock gave me.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=205848
#41
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That was the only thing I didn't know about. I was going to take my headlight assembly apart soon and see how it can be done. Doesn't seem too hard though.
#42
~17 MPG
iTrader: (2)
Hello, I'm new to these forums, but I've been a car fan for a while, and am taking Electric Engineering classes right now. An insulator is anything that doesn't conduct electricity. For instance, you could use plastic, tape, fiberglass or even wood.
I haven't seen the inside of our headlight motors yet, but from what Wael El-Dasher wrote, it seems that the motors probably run on some sort of tracks, like an electric train, or those slot-car racers. If you were to cover the metal track with an insulating material that would probably stop the motor at that point.
-scott-
I haven't seen the inside of our headlight motors yet, but from what Wael El-Dasher wrote, it seems that the motors probably run on some sort of tracks, like an electric train, or those slot-car racers. If you were to cover the metal track with an insulating material that would probably stop the motor at that point.
-scott-
Last edited by scotty305; 01-20-04 at 07:39 PM.
#49
Money Pit
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by Kento
Do you know what he means by "just an addition of some insulating material to the motors internals stops the current from conducting over the entire contact surface"? What did he use for the insulating material, and how did he apply it?
Do you know what he means by "just an addition of some insulating material to the motors internals stops the current from conducting over the entire contact surface"? What did he use for the insulating material, and how did he apply it?
While I haven't pulled my stuff apart yet that is what I'm envisioning in my head.
My biggest question is how to tie the new driving and fog lights into the current headlight circuit/switch. Does it require any additional relays or what? Where is the best place to tap into?
Come on Wael, help a guy out
Frank
#50
John
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Originally posted by jimlab
[
Looks like freeze-dried ***, but hey, that's just my opinion...
John, don't you have C-West lights now? What are you worrying about pop-ups for? If you want a better looking (and performing) set of sleek lights, just wait until I finish my kit.
[
Looks like freeze-dried ***, but hey, that's just my opinion...
John, don't you have C-West lights now? What are you worrying about pop-ups for? If you want a better looking (and performing) set of sleek lights, just wait until I finish my kit.