t-von

iTrader: (8)

Well time will tell. I don't abuse my car enough to worry about stuff like that (which is why my stock frame was never cracked to begin with). All I do know is, this is how the car should have felt from the very beginning.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Thx for your input!

ehos

I was reading a few old posts, and there was a mention of removing the PPF altogether? Has there been any work done on this? (Diff brace etc).

t-von

iTrader: (8)

I know I thought this same thing as I was modifying it. I'm not done yet. Some of the stress points can be relieved at those points. Remember, I have solid diff mounts. My rear axle doesn't rotate at all. The only possible point of failure now would be at the tranny section. The key there would be to eliminate any movement. I'm still with the stock engine mounts which allow for some give. I don't know their true condition at this time. I'm going to make some engine mounts later that will eliminate any twist of the engine completely. I'm also may be up for maybe a tranny brace as well (only if something cracks). That buy itself helps relieve some stress on the PPF since it too help eliminate twisting. Overall wheel hop is really what stresses and cracks the frame. Also putting a lot of power down will do the same. My car is 100% street driven so I don't for see and problems like that in the near future.

I take that back, I am getting ready to install a 20b this summer. We'll see what happens then.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

That's usually a direct result of wheel hop with that much movement. Did you have any when it broke? Eliminating any wheel hop is my main goal which eliminate the majority of the stress throughout the drivetrane.

oorx7

iTrader: (2)

Not so much when the diff shattered. But yes I have been dealing with wheel hop for the whole existance of the car. This year I will have solid motor mounts, trans brace, diff brace, and hopfully a full delrin busshing set. This should get rid of any movement in the drivtrain.

Swolbynos

i have an engine torque brace, poly motor mounts, tranny brace, diff brace, nylon diff bushings, and my reinforced PPF. i had almost no wheel hop, i am putting in adj, trailing arms and toe links right now

DamonB

If solid diff mounts don't twist the PPF and stress it then why the need to strengthen the PPF...

t-von

iTrader: (8)

From my first post;

That tranny movement is much much less now. In all honesty the entire project was just an experiment. I haven't welded in so long I needed to refresh myself. Especially if I'm going to start fabing things for my 20b conversion. I consider this project a complete success and well worth the effort I put into it.

KevinK2

Mazda Service Highlights clearly indicated the PPF was designed to keep the diff input shaft from jumping up on hard oem starts, it was not designed as a torque tube. Stiffened, it will start to take more torque, esp with oem diff and/or eng mounts. The chassis is a whole lot stiffer in torsion than any ppf. Stiff eng and diff mounts will isolate the oem ppf from d-shaft torque reaction loads.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Thx that's exactly what I thought about the stiff engine and diff mounts not effecting the brace, however I didn't know that about it not being designed as a torque tube. After twisting it myself with my dad I can clearly see how it was designed. It damn sure wasn't designed to stop torque twist. LOL

I think I'm just going to make only one stiffer engine mount for the turbo side of the engine. The reality is that's the only mount that needs stiffening since that's the side that receives the most load from torque. The less that side compresses, the less twist throughout the drivetrane. This also should reduce the level of vibration within the cabin.

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

Mine cracked about 9-11 inches foward of this point and I mean it was cracked pretty bad. The crack was like 3 inches long on top and bottom.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Quick question for some of you experts. When I was under the car removing the PPF, I rotated the axle to check for play. I could rotate it about 1/2".
I had the parking brake engaged and the shifter in neutral. For a long time I could always notice a thud when driving. It would happen when I switched gears. You would also notice it when cruising. If cruising at a steady paste, I would get off the gas and you will feel the thud. Once on the gas again you will feel it again. It would appear that the play in the axle is causing this problem (load/unload). Is it normal for the axle to rotate that much? If not what can I do the tighten it up? Now that the drivetrane is tighter, the thud is now more apparent.

Keep in mind I first started to feel this problem when I installed my stage 3 sprung 6 puck clutch. That was 2 1/2 years ago.

importboi22

rear diff/lsd going out..... on my supra... yes i kno its not an FD but i had to replace the shims on each side of the LSD and changed to a shorter Final drive and it cured my problem.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Diff going out huh? Damn! Oh well I was going to install a turbo II diff anyways.

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

Or you could just do this.....

oorx7

iTrader: (2)

What would a red X do?

nashman69g

iTrader: (3)

Pic didn't post!

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

(strange, it's visible on my browser) One more try...

nashman69g

iTrader: (3)

nope again

Whizbang

clear your cache i bet i wont appear.

from things ive learned, i dont think adding that material to the PPF is going to do anything productive.

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

oorx7

iTrader: (2)

Yep there is a group buy running for that peice right now.

How did you manage to see that wanklin? That was desighned to get rid of the torque arm on the LSx swap.

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

I found out about this setup quite a while ago; I actually tried to get a GB going on it a while back but noone seemed interested. The designer of this Piece, Paul, bought a set of bushings from me and we got talking about our projects, ang you know how that goes.... Enough said. I had been trying to talk Paul into making a run of them for quite some time. I'm glad he's finally making it happen. This is the perfect solution for my T2 converted diff and it's suitable for both rotary and LSX applications. The unit was built by a professional chassis builder and Paul who happens to be a machinist located in Canada. He's done some provisional testing on it and so far so good. He has incorporated Form mounts into the design to soak up some of the introduced oscillations. The GB cost is $1K but please don't PM me about it because I am not directly involved this time around ;o) however; this setup will be on my car in the near future ;o)

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

can we get a better picture of that?