Check out my reinforced PPF
#26
Originally Posted by DamonB
Every PPF I've ever seen break fails at the ears where it bolts to the diff; they break off. If that area isn't the one heavily reinforced you're not going to see much improvement.
Well time will tell. I don't abuse my car enough to worry about stuff like that (which is why my stock frame was never cracked to begin with). All I do know is, this is how the car should have felt from the very beginning.
Last edited by t-von; 04-07-06 at 02:39 PM.
#29
Originally Posted by DamonB
I'm absolutely certain this modified PPF is stiffer than stock, but my guess is its fatigue life will be drastically shorter. It will feel great until it breaks in the same place they all do and it will most likely break sooner if its put to the test.
I take that back, I am getting ready to install a 20b this summer. We'll see what happens then.
Last edited by t-von; 04-07-06 at 02:41 PM.
#30
Originally Posted by oorx7
The brace that goes through the PPf even has marks on it from twisting so much from a busted drivers side motor mount.
That's usually a direct result of wheel hop with that much movement. Did you have any when it broke? Eliminating any wheel hop is my main goal which eliminate the majority of the stress throughout the drivetrane.
Last edited by t-von; 04-07-06 at 02:44 PM.
#31
Custom or Nothing
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by t-von
That's usually a direct result of wheel hop with that much movement. Did you have any when it broke?
#32
i have an engine torque brace, poly motor mounts, tranny brace, diff brace, nylon diff bushings, and my reinforced PPF. i had almost no wheel hop, i am putting in adj, trailing arms and toe links right now
#33
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by t-von
Remember, I have solid diff mounts. My rear axle doesn't rotate at all.
Last edited by DamonB; 04-07-06 at 03:37 PM.
#34
Originally Posted by DamonB
If solid diff mounts don't twist the PPF and stress it then why the need to strengthen the PPF...
The only problem I had now was the tranny movement under hard acceleration. With everything else solid, I thought that my PPF may be cracked. So I removed it and to my surprise, it wasn’t. I thought why does it move so much then?
Last edited by t-von; 04-07-06 at 04:37 PM.
#35
Rotary Enthusiast
Mazda Service Highlights clearly indicated the PPF was designed to keep the diff input shaft from jumping up on hard oem starts, it was not designed as a torque tube. Stiffened, it will start to take more torque, esp with oem diff and/or eng mounts. The chassis is a whole lot stiffer in torsion than any ppf. Stiff eng and diff mounts will isolate the oem ppf from d-shaft torque reaction loads.
#36
Originally Posted by KevinK2
Mazda Service Highlights clearly indicated the PPF was designed to keep the diff input shaft from jumping up on hard oem starts, it was not designed as a torque tube. Stiffened, it will start to take more torque, esp with oem diff and/or eng mounts. The chassis is a whole lot stiffer in torsion than any ppf. Stiff eng and diff mounts will isolate the oem ppf from d-shaft torque reaction loads.
Thx that's exactly what I thought about the stiff engine and diff mounts not effecting the brace, however I didn't know that about it not being designed as a torque tube. After twisting it myself with my dad I can clearly see how it was designed. It damn sure wasn't designed to stop torque twist. LOL
I think I'm just going to make only one stiffer engine mount for the turbo side of the engine. The reality is that's the only mount that needs stiffening since that's the side that receives the most load from torque. The less that side compresses, the less twist throughout the drivetrane. This also should reduce the level of vibration within the cabin.
Last edited by t-von; 04-07-06 at 05:16 PM.
#38
Quick question for some of you experts. When I was under the car removing the PPF, I rotated the axle to check for play. I could rotate it about 1/2".
I had the parking brake engaged and the shifter in neutral. For a long time I could always notice a thud when driving. It would happen when I switched gears. You would also notice it when cruising. If cruising at a steady paste, I would get off the gas and you will feel the thud. Once on the gas again you will feel it again. It would appear that the play in the axle is causing this problem (load/unload). Is it normal for the axle to rotate that much? If not what can I do the tighten it up? Now that the drivetrane is tighter, the thud is now more apparent.
Keep in mind I first started to feel this problem when I installed my stage 3 sprung 6 puck clutch. That was 2 1/2 years ago.
I had the parking brake engaged and the shifter in neutral. For a long time I could always notice a thud when driving. It would happen when I switched gears. You would also notice it when cruising. If cruising at a steady paste, I would get off the gas and you will feel the thud. Once on the gas again you will feel it again. It would appear that the play in the axle is causing this problem (load/unload). Is it normal for the axle to rotate that much? If not what can I do the tighten it up? Now that the drivetrane is tighter, the thud is now more apparent.
Keep in mind I first started to feel this problem when I installed my stage 3 sprung 6 puck clutch. That was 2 1/2 years ago.
Last edited by t-von; 04-07-06 at 07:38 PM.
#39
Hks Ownz Me (
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Originally Posted by t-von
Quick question for some of you experts. When I was under the car removing the PPF, I rotated the axle to check for play. I could rotate it about 1/2".
I had the parking brake engaged and the shifter in neutral. For a long time I could always notice a thud when driving. It would happen when I switched gears. You would also notice it when cruising. If cruising at a steady paste, I would get off the gas and you will feel the thud. Once on the gas again you will feel it again. It would appear that the play in the axle is causing this problem (load/unload). Is it normal for the axle to rotate that much? If not what can I do the tighten it up? Now that the drivetrane is tighter, the thud is now more apparent.
Keep in mind I first started to feel this problem when I installed my stage 3 sprung 6 puck clutch. That was 2 1/2 years ago.
I had the parking brake engaged and the shifter in neutral. For a long time I could always notice a thud when driving. It would happen when I switched gears. You would also notice it when cruising. If cruising at a steady paste, I would get off the gas and you will feel the thud. Once on the gas again you will feel it again. It would appear that the play in the axle is causing this problem (load/unload). Is it normal for the axle to rotate that much? If not what can I do the tighten it up? Now that the drivetrane is tighter, the thud is now more apparent.
Keep in mind I first started to feel this problem when I installed my stage 3 sprung 6 puck clutch. That was 2 1/2 years ago.
rear diff/lsd going out..... on my supra... yes i kno its not an FD but i had to replace the shims on each side of the LSD and changed to a shorter Final drive and it cured my problem.
#49
Rob
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by oorx7
Yep there is a group buy running for that peice right now.
How did you manage to see that wanklin? That was designed to get rid of the torque arm on the LSx swap.
How did you manage to see that wanklin? That was designed to get rid of the torque arm on the LSx swap.