Charge Control Actuator problem
#1
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Charge Control Actuator problem
While trouble shooting a boost problem I found that my Charge Control Actuator is not operating properly. According to www.autosportracetech.com the actuator’s rod is pulled in when the car is idling (and under 4500 RPM) and should remain pulled in when the engine is stopped, unless you remove the vacuum hose on Chamber A. The problem I have is that the rod does pull in when the engine idles but as soon as I stop the engine the rod pops back out.
I checked the actuator to see if it was the problem by removing the vacuum line from Chamber A and then pushed the rod in, then placed my finger over the nipple on Chamber A. When I let go of the rod it stayed pulled in, and remained this way until I removed my finger from over the nipple on Chamber A, so I assume the actuator is fine. Next I checked all my vacuum lines and they are all connected properly and there were none that had popped off. I also replaced all my check valves, starting with the one that is between the Charge Control Actuator and the Vacuum Chamber with Dale Clark's check valves, except for the extra 5th one that comes on the automatics (my car is an automatic). I also visually check the vacuum chamber for cracks and found none.
After doing all this I still have the same problem, the actuator rod pulls in during idle but pops out as soon as the engine is turned off. Other then rechecking all my vacuum lines again and looking for vacuum leaks is there something else that I should look at first?
I checked the actuator to see if it was the problem by removing the vacuum line from Chamber A and then pushed the rod in, then placed my finger over the nipple on Chamber A. When I let go of the rod it stayed pulled in, and remained this way until I removed my finger from over the nipple on Chamber A, so I assume the actuator is fine. Next I checked all my vacuum lines and they are all connected properly and there were none that had popped off. I also replaced all my check valves, starting with the one that is between the Charge Control Actuator and the Vacuum Chamber with Dale Clark's check valves, except for the extra 5th one that comes on the automatics (my car is an automatic). I also visually check the vacuum chamber for cracks and found none.
After doing all this I still have the same problem, the actuator rod pulls in during idle but pops out as soon as the engine is turned off. Other then rechecking all my vacuum lines again and looking for vacuum leaks is there something else that I should look at first?
#2
I have the same EXACT problem.
I was thinking of somehow forcing the actuator closed to see if it fixes my low boost below 4500 RPM's.
What's the 'correct' fix? Searchs/troubleshooter don't say what the problem could be...
I was thinking of somehow forcing the actuator closed to see if it fixes my low boost below 4500 RPM's.
What's the 'correct' fix? Searchs/troubleshooter don't say what the problem could be...
#3
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Clearly you have a loss of vacuum. It's fine when the engine is running because the UIM is providing the vacuum, but it is not maintaining when that vacuum source is gone. Your best friend right now would be a MityVac or similar vacuum tester. You could then check the integrity of your vacuum tank, any hoses, the three actuators which use vacuum (Charge Control (which in your case seems to be intact), Charge Relief, and Turbo Control), etc. Also, the functional diagram in the FSM was very useful to me in tracing vacuum when I had a blown Charge Control actuator.
BTW, what are the operational symptoms you are seeing?
Regards,
Rob
BTW, what are the operational symptoms you are seeing?
Regards,
Rob
#4
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Originally Posted by AUM
While trouble shooting a boost problem I found that my Charge Control Actuator is not operating properly. According to www.autosportracetech.com the actuator’s rod is pulled in when the car is idling (and under 4500 RPM) and should remain pulled in when the engine is stopped, unless you remove the vacuum hose on Chamber A. The problem I have is that the rod does pull in when the engine idles but as soon as I stop the engine the rod pops back out.
I checked the actuator to see if it was the problem by removing the vacuum line from Chamber A and then pushed the rod in, then placed my finger over the nipple on Chamber A. When I let go of the rod it stayed pulled in, and remained this way until I removed my finger from over the nipple on Chamber A, so I assume the actuator is fine. Next I checked all my vacuum lines and they are all connected properly and there were none that had popped off. I also replaced all my check valves, starting with the one that is between the Charge Control Actuator and the Vacuum Chamber with Dale Clark's check valves, except for the extra 5th one that comes on the automatics (my car is an automatic). I also visually check the vacuum chamber for cracks and found none.
After doing all this I still have the same problem, the actuator rod pulls in during idle but pops out as soon as the engine is turned off. Other then rechecking all my vacuum lines again and looking for vacuum leaks is there something else that I should look at first?
I checked the actuator to see if it was the problem by removing the vacuum line from Chamber A and then pushed the rod in, then placed my finger over the nipple on Chamber A. When I let go of the rod it stayed pulled in, and remained this way until I removed my finger from over the nipple on Chamber A, so I assume the actuator is fine. Next I checked all my vacuum lines and they are all connected properly and there were none that had popped off. I also replaced all my check valves, starting with the one that is between the Charge Control Actuator and the Vacuum Chamber with Dale Clark's check valves, except for the extra 5th one that comes on the automatics (my car is an automatic). I also visually check the vacuum chamber for cracks and found none.
After doing all this I still have the same problem, the actuator rod pulls in during idle but pops out as soon as the engine is turned off. Other then rechecking all my vacuum lines again and looking for vacuum leaks is there something else that I should look at first?
It could be caused by a solenoid sticking open, hoses connected incorrectly, a slit in a hose, or simply a detached hose.
If you can find a Mityvac you can apply vacuum to the system at that actuator and try to trace the leak.
Dave