I have a case of Castrol 2T Two stroke blue color oil and want to know if its safe to use in FD's from premix in the tank with a working OMP? i ask because after searching a bunch i cant find the TC-W3 certification on the 2t that most say is needed for premix.

If so whats a safe ratio to use with a working OMP I've read anywhere from .25oz to 1+oz per Gal this will be just as a precaution and better lubing in a DD that like to hit boost here and there.

since ive got you here how can you tell if the OMP is working properly? i could only find one thread that says it will trow a code if faulty?

 

read this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati.../#post11104742

In short:

Instead of looking for oil that is API TC “Low Ash” we should be focusing our attention on oils that provide comparable or better protection. So here is a new criteria for oil.

For the best protection exceeding API TC: Use oil that meets or exceeds ISO EGD, ISO EGC, JASO FC, or JASO FD

For comparable protection to API TC: Use oil that meets or exceeds ISO EGB, JASO FB, or API TC

AVOID: JASO FA, and all TC-W* unless it meets or exceeds a higher standard listed in the product data sheet. "

 

I use about .5 oz. @ gal. with a working OMP. I don't measure all that carefully. Just eye-ball it on the gauge side of the bottle. I also have AI to help with carbon issues.
With the stock ECU, if anything goes wrong with the OMP it will generate one of three possible CEL codes. Any of the three will put the engine into limp mode...so you'd know right away.
With a PFC, you have to do a sensor check on the commander. If there's an issue the "MOP" will be shaded and voltage will default to something like .499v.
The only other thing is to examin the stock opaque oil lines for flow...or I suppose if your ambitious uncover the injector and examine it. But doing either is alot of work. You may be able to get some assurance for flow by disconnecting the lines at the OMP, which would be alot easier to access.

 

thanks for the reply, i looked on the bottle and it says Meets: API TC & JASO FB so according to the chart it should be a ok to use? whats a good ration for a working omp?


Heres a link to the oil:
Castrol USA - 2-Stroke Motorcycle Oil

 

I use the Lucas brand from any local auto parts around here. Premix .5oz/gal.

Lucas Semi Synthetic 2-CYCLE Oil : Lucas Oil

 

I personally use Idemitsu premix oil. I use 1/2 oz per gallon at every fill up and I still have my OMP. The reason I premix is to supplement and provide a fail safe should my oil nozzle check valves fail. The oil nozzles have internal rubber stopper type check valves that allow oil to continuously be metered in regardless of combustion chamber pressure be it positive or negative. If your oil nozzles shall fail, under boost your oil supplied by the OMP will back flow through the breather and re enter into your primary turbo inlet effectively zero-ing your lubrication under boost. Should your check valves fail, new OEM ones are ~$50 from malloy for both and if you're really cheap, I suppose you could gut the rubber stopper from the oil nozzles and run an external check valve.

Premix is never a bad idea. .5 oz is the way to go with a functioning OMP. people who run 1-2 oz per gallon have deleted their OMPs most likely. There are plenty of threads for and against the OMP and you can read them and decide for yourself.

As for Castrol 2 stroke oil. Really it seems any 2 stroke oil works as a premix. Hell there are plenty of people that use the cheap walmart 2 stroke stuff and have had success. I use Idemitsu as it was designed for rotaries. If you have a midpipe and hate the smell. Might I suggest this: Oil-Ipone Scoot Run - Two Sroke | Scooterworks USA

Matt

 

found a pretty cool comparison vid test.....

 

Side question about Premixing: Since it's better to pour in the premix FIRST before filling up, so the fuel can help mix everything in the tank, how do you know exactly how much premix to pour in the beginning?

For example, I plan on premixing 1oz per Gallon (no OMP), but when I fill up, I don't always fill up from completely empty. If my car is 3/4's empty, how do I know how many gallons I will be filling up prior, and consequently how many oz's of premix to pour in?

 

The FD has a 20 gallon tank... divided by 4 it's 5 gallons per 1/4. So if you used 3/4 of a tank you can add 15oz....

Simple math...

 

Im using the walmart stuff, but after more reading I think im going to pick up some Idemitsu oil. For knowing how much to put in I just dont top off my tank. If im at a quarter I figure I could put at least 10 gallons in and premix accordingly.

 

Not accurate enough, in my opinion. It would need to be provided that the gauge isn't thrown off by the reserve, is exactly at 3/4, and is even that precise to begin with.

There we go, thanks for some reason I have a habit of always filling up my other cars to the brim... so this didn't come to mind. I guess this showcases my inherent laziness, since I prefer to minimize the potential amount of gas station trips.

 

Honestly I would like to fill up all the way but I dont want to be off by a lot. I guess you can guestimate but guess low and if your off add a little on top. Im sure it would find a way to mix in somehow while driving around.

 

I'm no scientist or chemist, but here is my interpretation of that comparison video. That video showed absolutely nothing.

What is the purpose of a 2 stroke oil? Lubrication and to burn off clean for a total loss oiling system.

The video showed no demonstration of the oil WHEN MIXED WITH GAS being combusted to prove whether it burns ashless or not. According to chemistry, combustion results in water, carbon dioxide, and energy. So a good two stroke should combust and in theory only leave behind water and carbon dioxide. Now back to the video. The premix was heated to 300*. Combustion chamber heat is in excess of 1500*. The mixture is injected, compressed, and then combusted inside the engine. A better test would be pressure testing to show break down and wear under normal circumstances. In addition, a simple combustion test in a proper mixture indicating and ashless burn would be more than adequate.

Again, I'm no chemist or scientist. But to my inexperienced interpretation, that video proved nothing.

 

It is a recirculating fuel system with a return line to the tank, this means that even if the oil is poured in after filling, it will only take a few minutes of running the engine for it to be mixed into the fuel completely.

For people running their OMP and premix it is not as critical to get the ratio exact, I always say you should err on the side of caution and add more if the ratio is in question. If you are running .5 oz/ga it is not a big deal if you have an extra ounce or two in the tank. For example pouring in an 8 oz bottle and only filling 14 ga of fuel is not an issue.

 

Whats the best ratio for no OMP? I do 1oz/gal

 

I'd be interested to know just how crucial a precise premix mixture really is.

The way I see it is that if you were not sure you could fudge on the richer side. A little extra lube can't really hurt.

Unless there are other factors.....

Does adding premix significantly affect the fuel viscosity possibling leaning out the fuel mixture?

I recall seeing somewhere that premix lowers octane. Is this true?

Victor

 

IMO it isn't THAT cruicial. You're not mixing explosives or baking a cake. And as I mentioned earlier, I typically err on the side of more than less.
Never seen any data. First, 2 cycle oil is intended to mix with gas. And at the typical 1 oz. to 1 gal. ratio (1:128) (no OMP) I don't think viscosity change is a factor. As for octane, pretty much the same. At any reasonable ratio, I can't see a significant change in octane. There are guys here that run some highly tuned cars with pre-mix and I've never heard alot of concern over it.
If you repeatedly go with a silly heavy oil ratio... well above the norm, I'd think the biggest danger is carbon build-up over time, fouling plugs and shortened life of your cat.

 

Thanks for the reply

Sometimes I tend to over-think things. But I think it's better than over-simplifying things.

Vicoor