Car Trouble in Traffic Please Help......Part II
#1
semper Fi
Thread Starter
Car Trouble in Traffic Please Help......Part II
Ok guys..... Some of you may remember my thread below from about 2 months back, but if not I have conviently placed it below.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/problem-when-car-traffic-help-please-671839/
Any who, I finally got around to replacing the Air Intake Temp Sensor, and thought everything was ok........NOPE!
I only test drove the car after I replaced the sensor last weekend, and during the test drive it drove amazingly!! So today when I got off of work I picked up the car to go get a new brake tag. It ran like a dream, and about 5 minutes into the drive my tach and speedo started working again. They have not worked since the car had the traffic problem the first time. Needless to say I was very excited. Well, about 5 more minutes go by and I get into some traffic. After moving slowly in the traffic for about 3 more minutes it starts happening again!!!! As soon as I give it a little gas I get the loping vrap vrrrrap vrrrrapappappp pap. DAMN IT!!! So I immediatly check all the gauges. Vacuum good, fuel pressure good, temp good, but something wasnt good. Right at that moment when it happened again the speed and the tach stopped working again. Is this a coincedence? Maybe, but doesnt it seem odd that right when they start working again the problem comes back? Could it be a sensor that controls the gauges is also causing the issue with the car not running correctly?
Long ending kept short:
I pulled over to unplug the AIT because I thought maybe I replaced it with a bad one, and last time when I unplugged it I was at least able to drive home......not this time. Had to call to tow truck, and now she is sitting safely in the garage. BUT still not running....again...and again.
Any who, if any info is needed please let me know so we can try to trouble shoot this thing. I am pretty much at a loss, and dont know what else to do.
thanks guys,
-josh
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/problem-when-car-traffic-help-please-671839/
Any who, I finally got around to replacing the Air Intake Temp Sensor, and thought everything was ok........NOPE!
I only test drove the car after I replaced the sensor last weekend, and during the test drive it drove amazingly!! So today when I got off of work I picked up the car to go get a new brake tag. It ran like a dream, and about 5 minutes into the drive my tach and speedo started working again. They have not worked since the car had the traffic problem the first time. Needless to say I was very excited. Well, about 5 more minutes go by and I get into some traffic. After moving slowly in the traffic for about 3 more minutes it starts happening again!!!! As soon as I give it a little gas I get the loping vrap vrrrrap vrrrrapappappp pap. DAMN IT!!! So I immediatly check all the gauges. Vacuum good, fuel pressure good, temp good, but something wasnt good. Right at that moment when it happened again the speed and the tach stopped working again. Is this a coincedence? Maybe, but doesnt it seem odd that right when they start working again the problem comes back? Could it be a sensor that controls the gauges is also causing the issue with the car not running correctly?
Long ending kept short:
I pulled over to unplug the AIT because I thought maybe I replaced it with a bad one, and last time when I unplugged it I was at least able to drive home......not this time. Had to call to tow truck, and now she is sitting safely in the garage. BUT still not running....again...and again.
Any who, if any info is needed please let me know so we can try to trouble shoot this thing. I am pretty much at a loss, and dont know what else to do.
thanks guys,
-josh
#3
semper Fi
Thread Starter
Ok, sorry it took me a day to respond, but I got anwsers for you! haha
Have I reset the ECU? Yes, and have tried two different ECU's. It has done this with my stock ecu as well as me M2 ecu
Am I getting a cel? YES I pulled the codes and they are as follows....
After reseting the ECU when the engine was cold,
6- speedometer sensor
12- throttle sensor full
18- throttle sensor narrow
I know that my TPS has been off and I am soon going to adjust it, but I really dont think that it is causing this problem so I have been thrying to hunt out the main problem lately.
After resetting the ECU when the engine is at operating temp,
12- throttle sensor full
18- throttle sensor narrow
38- accelerated warm up (removed so makes sense it is throwing the code)
42- Solenoid valve pre control (removed)
43- Solenoid valve waste gate (removed)
The waste gate and pre control were removed after this problem started, so I do not believe it would be either of those.
And for the last question....am I running any cats? Yes, I am running the primary cat because I do not believe the M2 ECU is tuned for open and/or high flow cat.
Thats it!!! Nothing that I think would cause this problem!
If you have any thoughts please let me know.
thanks,
-josh
#4
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
The fact that your dash gauges started freaking out signals that the problem is electrical system-based (as in a ground fault somewhere in the wiring). If a ground fault in the TPS line suddenly causes the signals to go crazy, then any time you move the throttle past a certain point, the confusion will cause the ECU to just shut everything down instead of going into limp mode. That's my theory based on what info you've provided.
#5
semper Fi
Thread Starter
Well I was mentioning the gauges because I didnt want to leave anything out, but my gauges have always been screwy. I have the typical rx7 "bouncy gauge" problems that you see all the time on here. I am not sure that proves it, but I will agree that it is electrical. Now if I could figure out where that would be great. I guess my next step will be to check the TPS, reset it, and check the line.
#7
Tha ladies man
Join Date: Oct 2003
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Ive come 2 find that when tha tps is off, tha car acts funny in seemingly unrelated problems. Before adjusting my tps, I ran into boost problems where tha 2ndary would kick in at 6500, backfires, looping idle in nuetral when warmed up, blah blah blah.
Tha only thing I did was adjust tha tps (never touched anything related to tha boost issue) and it was ALL fixed. All I could do was scratch my head..then enjoy tha car again. Good luck.
Tha only thing I did was adjust tha tps (never touched anything related to tha boost issue) and it was ALL fixed. All I could do was scratch my head..then enjoy tha car again. Good luck.
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#9
semper Fi
Thread Starter
OK, adjusted the tps. It was a bit off. The throttle response and acceleration smoothness is much better, but it didnt fix the problem when the car got hot.
any other ideas fellas? I appreciate all the help prior guys!!!
-josh
any other ideas fellas? I appreciate all the help prior guys!!!
-josh
#12
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
As I stated in my previous post, you need to check the wiring leading from your TPS and loom itself. You have a ground fault somewhere that is causing the ECU to get confusing signals, which results in shutdown (could possibly also be the cause of your instrument gauges occassionally going wacky).
#13
semper Fi
Thread Starter
As I stated in my previous post, you need to check the wiring leading from your TPS and loom itself. You have a ground fault somewhere that is causing the ECU to get confusing signals, which results in shutdown (could possibly also be the cause of your instrument gauges occassionally going wacky).
#14
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
The TPS signal travels through the wiring loom to the ECU. Just because you checked up at the TPS doesn't mean there isn't a ground fault somewhere along that line. Unfortunately, tracing a problem like this takes some major patience and time. You might try checking all your fuse and relay boxes (and the lines leading to them) as well.
#16
Warming the planet.
You need to plug the two turbo Solenoids that you removed back in or install a resistor in there place. They are putting the ECU in to so called "limp mode".
Even if that is not the only problem, the car will not run at higher loads with those two codes.
The ECU does not have a "just shut everything down" mode, no matter how confused in gets.
Paul
.
Even if that is not the only problem, the car will not run at higher loads with those two codes.
The ECU does not have a "just shut everything down" mode, no matter how confused in gets.
Paul
.
Last edited by Gadd; 10-01-07 at 06:11 PM.
#17
semper Fi
Thread Starter
You need to plug the two turbo Solenoids that you removed back in or install a resistor in there place. They are putting the ECU in to so called "limp mode".
Even if that is not the only problem, the car will not run at higher loads with those two codes.
The ECU does not have a "just shut everything down" mode, no matter how confused in gets.
Paul
.
Even if that is not the only problem, the car will not run at higher loads with those two codes.
The ECU does not have a "just shut everything down" mode, no matter how confused in gets.
Paul
.
I ma running version 2 listed in the pic below, so I am not sure how that would effect the vehicle. People remove these all the time when they do vacuum job simplification jobs/ etc.
#18
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
What Gadd is saying is that if you remove a solenoid from the system, you need to leave it on the rack still connected to the electrical system or install a resistor in its place (to fool the ECU into thinking it is still attached), otherwise the ECU senses a problem, and in some instances, triggers it to go into "limp home" mode.
The fact that your problem (where the engine eventually stops running) manifests itself as the engine warms up leads me to believe that a ground fault somewhere in your wiring related to the TPS. Once the ground fault occurs, the signal going to the ECU is so off the charts that it doesn't know what to do with it, even in limp mode. That's my theory anyway...
The fact that your problem (where the engine eventually stops running) manifests itself as the engine warms up leads me to believe that a ground fault somewhere in your wiring related to the TPS. Once the ground fault occurs, the signal going to the ECU is so off the charts that it doesn't know what to do with it, even in limp mode. That's my theory anyway...
#19
semper Fi
Thread Starter
What Gadd is saying is that if you remove a solenoid from the system, you need to leave it on the rack still connected to the electrical system or install a resistor in its place (to fool the ECU into thinking it is still attached), otherwise the ECU senses a problem, and in some instances, triggers it to go into "limp home" mode.
Yeah I understand that, but through my searching I have never found this to be a problem for anyone else who has removed these. Plus it did it with them plugged in, and unplugged.
The fact that your problem (where the engine eventually stops running) manifests itself as the engine warms up leads me to believe that a ground fault somewhere in your wiring related to the TPS. Once the ground fault occurs, the signal going to the ECU is so off the charts that it doesn't know what to do with it, even in limp mode. That's my theory anyway...
#20
Warming the planet.
I'm sorry I was mistaken. I reviewed the service points section in the FSM and it's only the charge control solenoid that will cause "limp mode". I thought it was all of the turbo control solenoids.
Paul
Paul
#22
What's your point ?
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I can eliminate one item from your issue. Since my speed sensor is intermittent I can say for sure the car will still run fine even if it doesn't detect any seed indication from the sensor to the ECU or gauges. you need to put a meter on your ground wire from the TPS to the chassis and see if your loosing it when the car has warmed up.
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