Seriously-

93 Automatic FD. 108,000 miles original engine. I bought the car and it wouldn't generate boost. Drove fine otherwise. Every vacuum line was toast. Most solenoids crumbled when I touched them when performing a vacuum line job. Now- It runs shittier than before.

Work Performed:
Replaced Oil Metering Lines
Complete Silicone Vacuum Hose Job
Replaced most solenoids with used ones (did not test in advance)
Downpipe
Turbos Removed and Wastegate Ported
One coil replaced with a used one and new wires (but cheapie Bosch) installed. Plugs looked okay.

- The car throws no codes
- Car starts after a couple seconds cranking and idles a little high at about 1100 - 1500 RPM. Doesn't hunt for idle.
- Ive noticed that there is no suction from the secondary turbo. Is this normal? - or is it not going to suck (haha) until I get the car running right?
- The car will not freely rev - if I floor it, it will bog. It especailly bogs at about 3500 RPM
- If I gradually apply throttle, I can rev the car to redline
- If I floor the car, it will not rev past 4 or 5000 RPM sometimes
- Resetting the ECU seems to help but only enough to let me rev it one or two times. I could be imagining this part though.

My major prob is that the car throws no codes whatsoever. No place to start.

Thanks for your help and abuse in advance

 

Do you have a boost gauge?
Have you been able to check compression?
Are your ACV and ABV working properly? There is SO much to the turbo control of this engine it isn't funny. ONE little thing WILL hose it up, trust me.
You likely have a variety of problems in your 'rat's nest', would be my guess. And a lot of other questions come to mind on a car with this mileage, like when was the last time the fuel filter was changed?
It sounds like you basically have a decent engine, you just need to take it step-by-step from the basics on your turbo control.

 

Sounds like one or more solenoids may have been hooked up incorrectly, an easy mistake to make.

 

^^ No boost gauge. I bought one from Allrotor93 - depending on getting a good one... but was sold a piece of **** that was touted in great condition. I'm going to get another one but the car stumbles so much right now that boost isn't an issue. I'm still kind of pissed about that transaction.

Compression doesn't seem to be an issue. The car starts readily enough and doesn't exhibit the typical low compression gremlins.

I'm going to say that there is a more basic problem at this time than turbo control. I removed the piping from the intake elbow and the car still won't freely rev as described above. I took the turbos out of the equation and still came up a zero.

I think my rats nest routing is pretty bullet proof. I'd give it a 99% on the correctness of it. I checked and checked again. Again, since I removed the turbos from the equation and the engine still stumbled, a jacked up hose routing in the turbo control solenoids wouldn't matter?

I have not changed the fuel filter. I didn't have these problems before the hose job so I don't think the filter is an issue but I plan on changing it soon.

For being so fucked up, I find it strange that the car won't throw a single code.

 

turbo control isn't the only thing those solenoids drive...

Would a misbehaving fuel pressure solenoid create these symptoms?

 

^^ Maybe on the fuel pressure solenoid

Sooo maybe I'll just bypass the solenoid and hook the fuel pressure regulator right to the manifold and see what happens as part of my trouble shooting.

And before you even start, the double throttle is disengaging properly.

 

I'm running short on ideas here. The rat's nest is the only part of the car you touched I could see causing these issues.

 

^^ A great idea with the fuel pressure regulator solenoid too! I'll try bypassing it tomorrow and see what happens.

I also pulled the fuel injectors in order to replace the oil metering lines. I had to redo everything again because I fucked up and used the wrong bolts on the primary rail:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/injector-bushing-installation-question-736574/


I'm wondering if the high idle could be because the rail is still sucking a little air - but I doubt it.

 

I found your problem.

J/k, just giving you ****. I have nothing useful to post. I'll excuse myself now. I'm sorry.... that it's auto.

 

lol, when I saw your thread title, I thought that lemonade returned...

 

Clogged cat?

 

When you did vacuum hoses, did you replace turbo hoses? Did you replace restrictor pills from those hoses?

When you plugged fuel temp and water temp green connectors, are you sure they correctly plugged in? You can misplace them

 

^^ Probably not the cat as it ran okay before AND I removed the precat during the procedure.

For what its worth, I replaced the turbo hoses too and replaced the restrictor pills. Again, doesn't seem to be a turbo problem, it falls on its face if I floor it while revving it with an open intake elbow.

Not sure what you mean by fuel temp and water temp connecors. I have a homeless green connector by the water neck. I didn't disconnect any other connectors in that area and there apparently is no home for that connector. I figured it must be a diagnostic plug or something. I blame RX7Nut13B - thats what HE said.

 

There is "homeless" BLUE connector which used for CA cars only

Two green connectors connect to temp sensors. One mounted on water pump back (lower) and another one between injectors on a rail.

If it's "homeless" You should get CEL I would think..

 

You shouldn't have a homeless green connector. You may have a homeless blue connector, but not a green one.

Check this post:
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...55&postcount=2

 

Do you hear the turbos spool? Maybe you've got a cracked coupler between the y-pipe and IC over pipe.

 

^^ Okay its a homeless BLUE connector. I was just testing everyone to see if they knew their ****.

I know I don't have the green plugs for the thermosensors reversed. I never removed the one from the coolant neck.

 

You still need to verify you have the coolant and fuel thermosensors connected to the correct connectors.

 

Verified correct. I doublechecked the routing diagram you linked to and never removed the coolant sensor plug.

 

Considering the work you did, I would wager:

1. Ignition problem
2. Damaged wiring harness problem - as they get old, it's not hard to cause a wiring to break just by moving it out of the way to get to something
3. Possible grounding issue - Does your car have a ground on the ignition harness?

Did you manipulate the CAS connectors or anything when you did the OMP lines?

 

^^ Well

Turns out that there is no spark on Trailing 1

The others are NICE AND HOT ( I can barely type - one of them bit me pretty good).

I'm going to dig deeper and fix it and see where it leaves me.

I always thought trailing spark was just "bonus" spark anyway.

 

Now I have hot spark on all plugs - still didn't alleviate the root problem.

The car still stumbles on medium to aggressive throttle about 3500 RPM.

I'm pretty bummed.