Car running badly after power fc
#26
The PFC doesn't read vacuum in inches of mercury
What are the VTA1 and VTA2 voltage readings at idle? If they're jumping by a tenth of a volt, that doesn't seem right.
Have you tweaked the screw in the front of the TB with the 8mm jam nut on it? Takes a flatblade screwdriver. Try adjusting the idle with that..... you may have to reclock your TPS however. If memory serves, at idle VTA1 should be between 0.1 and 0.7 and VTA2 between 0.75 and 1.25. Or vice versa
What are the VTA1 and VTA2 voltage readings at idle? If they're jumping by a tenth of a volt, that doesn't seem right.
Have you tweaked the screw in the front of the TB with the 8mm jam nut on it? Takes a flatblade screwdriver. Try adjusting the idle with that..... you may have to reclock your TPS however. If memory serves, at idle VTA1 should be between 0.1 and 0.7 and VTA2 between 0.75 and 1.25. Or vice versa
I have the Power FC out at the moment. VTA is for TPS? because that was just adjusted into spec a week ago. I couldn't say anything about ISC though. I just don't understand how the Power FC was running my car perfectly for the first day then all of a sudden goes bad. I was having a ton of backfire over every little throttle change. I still get some on stock ECU but their hardly noticeable.
#28
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
initialize it and see if it runs correctly. also try disconnecting the commander as i mentioned to see if it helps, it's caused problems in the past. second hand units can be sketchy but i have never seen a PFC fail so far, not to say that they won't if it was previously installed on a car with a wiring issue that backfed through the PFC.
#29
Tunning till I drop!
iTrader: (34)
The commander is a possibility. I certainly can't hurt to try.
You might also try disconnecting the power break booster at the manifold and plugging the port. I'm wondering if running without a check valve has damaged it. A broken booster can pass a lot of air. I've never seen this on a 7 but have on other cars.
You might also try disconnecting the power break booster at the manifold and plugging the port. I'm wondering if running without a check valve has damaged it. A broken booster can pass a lot of air. I've never seen this on a 7 but have on other cars.
#41
Looks like ill be removing the mechanical dashpot because of this thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...talled-853278/
Then after initializing ill take a pic of my sensor voltages.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...talled-853278/
Then after initializing ill take a pic of my sensor voltages.
#42
Does the ECU need to be grounded through the bracket? My car is missing it and I just thought the ground on the harness is enough to ground the ECU. Maybe thats partly my problem and I hope it didnt kill the ECU. Although my stock one has been working like that.
#48
Cosmo's Factory
iTrader: (18)
Although the ecu bracket does need to be grounded. A few months ago I observed first hand just how "possessed" an FD ran without the ecu grounded. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ttent-1021661/
Last edited by beckrx; 03-21-13 at 06:59 PM. Reason: grammar correction
#50
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (5)
the harness should have a local ground that you bolt onto the car and connect near the ECU . with that wire grounded it should be enough , the case itself does not need grounding just that wire .
after reinitializing it how is the car running?
As for heatsoak make one of your things to view your intake air temp . I know my car never likes intake air temps above 45.
after reinitializing it how is the car running?
As for heatsoak make one of your things to view your intake air temp . I know my car never likes intake air temps above 45.
Last edited by Tem120; 03-22-13 at 01:13 PM.