Car not working.
10-07-10, 10:01 AM
#1
Car not working.
Drove it last night no problem, was on the way to work this morning and my stereo turned off but came back on....ok. my stereo turned off again and my antenna started going down but the stereo turned back on and the antenna went back up. I decided to stop and check my voltage on my timer, it read 15v which was werid so I parked the car, turned it off and started checking connections. FYI I relocated my battery to the trunk (don't have bins), I'm running the positive cable through the firewall and my negative cable is grounded on rear strut bar mount. The car has been working fine since the relocation (2 months) through sun and rain. So anyways I checked all the connections and they were fine got back in and nothing was on, nothing electrical was working, turned the key, nothing. What did I do and how can I fix it. Thanks in advance.
Bin
Bin
10-07-10, 10:56 AM
#10
How did you wire your battery relocation? Did you run a fuse in the + wire between the battery and the engine bay? Based on this thread I feel you didn't?
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ery+relocation
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ery+relocation
10-07-10, 01:46 PM
#15
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i had the same issues with my stereo and car not starting. turned out to be my alternator giving up. the voltage regulator was going out bouncing my voltage from 10v to 15v which is why my stereo and other electronics was turning on and off. finally my car wouldnt start due to the alternator finally failing. take the alt in and have it checked...save yourself a possible headache of electrical troubleshooting.
10-07-10, 04:12 PM
#17
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Like jectrx7 said, it sounds like your alternator. Of course you should check all of the fuses first, and MAKE SURE you don't have a short anywhere on the + line going from the battery to the engine bay (you can make sure by disconnecting your + line and checking it with a multi-meter or other electrical tester). Afterwards, reconnect the + line to your battery and jumpstart your car. While the car is running, disconnect one the cables going to your battery. If the engine shuts off, the alternator is bad. This test is not 100% reliable, but my diagnosis has been correct everytime I tried this test.
10-07-10, 10:53 PM
#18
Ok, so I went back and tightened all my connections and that did it, it started up and I drove it home which took 15 mins, I turned it off and about 3 hours later was going to go out, but the car didn't start, it cranks but it just won't start. Might it be flooded?
10-08-10, 01:58 PM
#21
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Seems to me that you may be clouding the real issue here. I would forget about the "flooding" at this time. I'm thinking since you're not an electrical guru (neither am I) limp that biotch over to Autozone or similar and let them do a free test on the alternator. Rule that in or out first.
I think whoever brought the alternator problem up first was more than likely right, or on the closest track. Since it eventually started up and got you home, it couldn't have been a blown fuse ... they don't unblow.
But 15V sounds like something electrical related (alternator) is screwed up. Explore that path until you've reached a conclusion. A dead alternator will make the car run on the battery alone (at least for periods of time). A weak enough spark from a drained battery may have a hard time making hot enough spark. And throwing enough air/fuel across a spark plug that's not lighting the fuel will foul a plug and make the situation worse ... leading to what seems like flooding. Both instances (wierd voltage, and the "flooding") can potentially be related to a problem alternator.
That's my $0.02 worth.
I think whoever brought the alternator problem up first was more than likely right, or on the closest track. Since it eventually started up and got you home, it couldn't have been a blown fuse ... they don't unblow.
But 15V sounds like something electrical related (alternator) is screwed up. Explore that path until you've reached a conclusion. A dead alternator will make the car run on the battery alone (at least for periods of time). A weak enough spark from a drained battery may have a hard time making hot enough spark. And throwing enough air/fuel across a spark plug that's not lighting the fuel will foul a plug and make the situation worse ... leading to what seems like flooding. Both instances (wierd voltage, and the "flooding") can potentially be related to a problem alternator.
That's my $0.02 worth.
10-08-10, 02:29 PM
#22
I think through the trouble shooting I blew a EGI fuse and thats why it wouldn't start, I am using my AC relay fuse for the EGI right now until the new EGI fuse comes in. Other than that its up and running again, thanks again for the input. I'm very glad it wasn't an alternator though.
10-08-10, 03:19 PM
#24
I think through the trouble shooting I blew a EGI fuse and thats why it wouldn't start, I am using my AC relay fuse for the EGI right now until the new EGI fuse comes in. Other than that its up and running again, thanks again for the input. I'm very glad it wasn't an alternator though.
-AzEKnightz
10-08-10, 03:26 PM
#25
For a relay, you jump the control side of the relay (usually pin 85 and 85) together and you should hear a click and check the continuity (ohm/resistance) on the pin 87 and 30 side. But beware, even if it clicks sometimes. It might stick or have high resistance causing the system to be not functioning properly.
Here's the image of a typical relay
-AzEKnightz
Here's the image of a typical relay
-AzEKnightz